Leg Slip

Adjacent Areas
< Vector Buttress  |  Merlin Direct >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 mins
Sheltered

One of the quieter buttresses at Bwlch y Moch with a set of technical groove climbs. The two Slip routes are especially worthwhile. Approach (see map on page 239) - From the carpark, walk along the road to a lay-by on the left just before a ditch. Follow a path on the left of the ditch to a clearing below the crag. The Slip routes and Venom are accessed by a short scramble up to a tree belay. For the routes that don't finish at a solid tree, walk right (looking in) to locate a steep descent gully. Guidebook page 248.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Nifl-Heim
This makes the most of the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a chimney.1) 4a, 12m. Climb the large chimney-groove...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5a
2
Pretzl Logic
A wandering route with a good finish. Start at a big tree just left of the groove of Venom.1) 5c, 15m. Climb slabby rock to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E2 5c
3
Venom
The smooth groove gives a superb, technical bridging problem.1) 6a, 15m. Stem up the groove via a desperate series of thin...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3 6a
4
Leg Slip
Another fine groove climb with technical climbing and superb positions. Start below the prominent groove on the right-hand side...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
5
First Slip
The right-hand Slip is even more technical.1) 5c, 35m. As for Leg Slip but move right at the top of the first groove below...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For TREMADOG (BWLCH Y MOCH)

    Valerie's Rib
    "Changed from HS ** to HS 4b **, no votes" 11/Oct

    The Neb Direct
    "Your description of pitch 1 is hopelessly out of date. see the current CC guide ..." 06/Jun

    Shadrach
    "The exit from the chimney as at the opposite side from where you enter. On pitc..." 05/Jun

    The Plum
    "2nd 1993. Superb!" 20/Feb top50

    Daddy Cool
    "Dissapointing" 15/Dec

    Search for comments