Merlin Direct

Adjacent Areas
< Grim Wall  |  Boo Boo >

Trad
Lots of sun!
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

An imposing buttress with a steep face and a polished slab. The easier routes see plenty of traffic. Approach (see map on page 239) - Walk away from Eric's Cafe and stay on the right-hand side of the road until you can see a crag shaped like a shark's fin - this is the Merlin buttress. A small bridge leads across the drainage ditch to the crag. Head left (facing in) over a stile then take the steep gully down passing some wooden steps.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Daddy Cool/The Sting
The vegetated bay has a couple of decent routes. The first tackles the open groove/chimney at the bottom of a long slab that...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
2
Reinetta
Start below the groove/chimney as for Daddy Cool. 1) 4a, 25m. Move up the left side of the groove and then step right...
 
2 Stars
Loose
HS 4a
3
Merlin Direct Top 50
Another popular climb that has a particularly fine top pitch. Start below the big diamond-shaped wall, left of the polished...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
4
Merlin
Only slightly easier than its direct neighbour and not as good.1) 4c, 20m. As for Merlin Direct.2) 5a, 30m. Follow...
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
5
Geireagle
Precarious balancy climbing up an overhanging wall - how does it do that?1) 5c, 38m. Follow Merlin to gain the base of the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
6
Vulture
All the strenuous climbing that you would expect on Geireagle seems to have been transferred to this one. Very pumpy! Start as...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6a
7
Y Broga
An extra-polished first pitch leads to more-open climbing above. Start by the slab below the big diamond-shaped wall.1) 5a,...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
8
Oberon
A varied route with commodious stances and a tricky first pitch.1) 4b, 15m. Climb the polished crack on the right of the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For TREMADOG (BWLCH Y MOCH)

    The Brothers
    "Changed from VS 4c * to VS 4c **, no votes" 11/Oct

    The Neb Direct
    "Your description of pitch 1 is hopelessly out of date. see the current CC guide ..." 06/Jun

    Shadrach
    "The exit from the chimney as at the opposite side from where you enter. On pitc..." 05/Jun

    The Plum
    "2nd 1993. Superb!" 20/Feb top50

    Daddy Cool
    "Dissapointing" 15/Dec

    The Weaver
    "Not the only mistake in this guide: see also Spectre (Clogwyn y Grochan) & N..." 03/Aug

    The Weaver
    "A mistake!? In a Wrongfax guide? Surely it would be easier to list proof-read an..." 21/Jun

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