Two Face Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Upper Tier  |  Scratch Area >

Trad
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

This is the Upper Tier's best crag, although the grades and approach keep most at bay. Don't be put off though, the routes are spectacular. There are lower pitches to Olympic Slab and Stromboli but these are poor and vegetated and it is much better just to abseil in for the top pitches. Approach (see map on page 228) - Walk along the base of the Upper Tier past Bulging Wall and take a path rightwards through a drystone wall. 10m past the wall, a faint track leads right to a wire fence. Cross this where it turns a slight angle and follow a track towards Porthmadog - the top of the cliff is now in front of you. It is within 150 metres of the base of the Upper Tier. Arrange an abseil dependant on the route you are doing. Guidebook page 232.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Blade Runner
The stunning line up the arete is challenging for the short. It once had a peg, hence the route name, but that has now gone...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
2
Olympic Slab
A great route and worth finding if the Upper Tier is busy. Abseil down near the left-hand side of the crag to a tree and ledge....
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
3
Plastic Nerve
A tricky route with some fine climbing. Start on the ledge reached by abseiling down the centre of the crag, as for Stromboli....
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
4
Stromboli
The most popular route on the buttress takes a strong line up grooves between the two blocks of roofs. Steep and sustained...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
5
Hitler's Buttock
A desperate route covering some exposed terrain. Micro wires are vital to supplement the limited protection. Start 3m left of...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
Sexual Salami
A marvellous route that is technical and absorbing. Start at a tree belay. Move up and left to a wide groove, ascend this and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6b
7
Cardiac Arete
More technical than "heart-stopping" but still no push-over at E4. Follow Sexual Salami to the where it swerves back left over...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For TREMADOG (PANT IFAN)

    Scratch
    "Changed from VS 4b ** to VS 4c **, 67% of 3 votes for 4c" 11/Oct top50

    Barbarian
    "2nd to Dr John 1993 ish, stupidly hard at top overhang, felt sick." 28/Dec top50

    Silly Arete
    "Oh yes, RIGHT onto the arete at the bottom!" 15/Dec

    Silly Arete
    "A tricky move left ???. I think you mean right" 02/Aug

    Pincushion
    "eh? E2 5c with a 6a pitch? Definitely not 6a. You just got to trust your feet. ..." 07/Jul top50

    Mistook
    "Did this route last Saturday 24/04/10. According to the CC Tremadog Guide, the r..." 26/Apr

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