The Quarry - Centre

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
25 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

This section of the quarried wall is open, well drained and offers up a good array of mid-grade lines. The routes are very popular and a little polished in places, however the quality of the rock and climbing make the routes worth tracking down. The wall is deceptively steep and along with the profusion of slopers means that the routes can feel quite tough and more of an undertaking than the modest height might suggest.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Chicago Pipe Dreaming
A popular climb starting just left of a well hole. Although the runout between the second and third bolt appears to be...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a
2
Borra Ring
A neat route directly above the well hole.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
5c
3
Perpetual State of Confusion
The wall to the ledge is the crux.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
4
Hiccup
Climb the wall to an exit left at the roof.
2 user comments
 6c
5
Empty Promises
A pleasing and quite technical wall climb.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
6a
6
All Fall Down
A fun route up the centre of the white wall via some tempting, but at times blind, breaks.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6a+
7
Carol's Little Injection
A disjointed climb with a half-height rest.
2 user comments
 6a
8
Slopin' and Hopin'
A fine pitch up a leaning wall on sloping holds. Best done on a cold crisp winter's day; then the slopers feel like jugs.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
9
Mr Choo Choo
Stylish moves up a shallow, leaning groove at the left-hand end of a low roof.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
10
Seven Year's Solitary
Make some hard starting moves over the big bulge.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7a+
11
Figure at the Base of a Crucifixtion
A hard test-piece with a tough crucifix move rightwards on to some poor slopers.
 
1 Stars
7b
12
Disco's Out, Murder's In
A hard, bouldery start through the initial roof is not easy to read. Take care with some of the rock near the top of the pitch.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
6c+
13
Daylight Robbery
A varied and interesting route up the leftward-leaning groove. Keep an eye on the footholds or things can quickly feel a lot...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
14
Double or Quits Top 50
The calcite wall just right of the bolt line. Further left is also an option at a slight increase in difficulty.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
15
Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven Top 50
The centre of the flat orange sheet is a fine route and one of the best of its grade in the quarry.
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
16
The Honey Monster
Climb up leftwards from the bottom corner of the orange face. Grabbing the lower-off is frowned upon.
 6c
17
The War of the Wardens
A well-loved and well-used line that has become polished.
12 user comments
 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For DANCING LEDGE

    Hiccup
    "Crimpy stuff followed by juggy stuff. Much better than the description suggests...." 17/May

    Skinhead Clash
    "Second bolt replaced." 23/Mar

    Daylight Robbery
    "Climbing it this weekend, I pulled the big horn off at the end of the crux secti..." 31/Jan

    John Craven's Willy Warmer
    "Above the bulge, 1m before the lower off, the flake you may grab to pull onto th..." 23/Oct

    Sugar Ray
    "an excellent little power endurance sprint. cool moves with no real rest." 13/Sep

    Skinhead Clash
    "The bolt holes and some glue are visible where the 2nd bolt used to be. Possibly..." 08/Jul

    Skinhead Clash
    "June 2010 - 2nd bolt missing" 25/Jun

    John Craven's Willy Warmer
    "Good value at 5+, pleasant climbing on a strong natural line" 08/Oct

    Slopin' and Hopin'
    "done on very hot august day, felt very hard and mage pumpy! very good tho!" 31/Aug

    Sea of Holes
    "There has been a slight mudslide at the top of this route - take a helmet!" 12/Jul

    Borra Ring
    "went to climb this one and found the rock really greasy, couldnt get to the seco..." 27/May

    Slave to the Cave
    "Now rebolted." 11/Oct

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