The Quarry - Right

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
25 mins
Up and Down
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The overhang strewn right-hand side of the quarry has a number of excellent and powerful routes, a few of which offer the chance of climbing in light rain. Guidebook page 302.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Negative Creep
A butch pitch that ascends a shallow leftward-leaning flake and groove.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
6b+
2
Slap, Bang on a Hang
A very short route over a roof.
1 user comment
 
Strong
6c
3
Corona Envelope
The right-hand side of the scoop is very bouldery.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7b+
4
Corona Connection
A pumpy link-up from Corona Envelope into Prophets of Rage, via a short finger traverse.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7b+
5
Prophets of Rage
A tough but excellent route which has a right-hand variant on the mid-section also at 7b. The direct start is 7b+ ish.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7b
6
Haunted by a Million Screams
An excellent jug haul up some steep ground and a slight groove through the overhangs. A Dancing Ledge classic.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
7
The Ghost of Ian Curtis
Steep moves, knee-bars and a cornflake-sized crux hold.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
7c+
8
Atrocity Exhibition
Some fierce moves up the blank groove.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
9
The Wonders of Wallkraft
The steep crack-line. Use long slings on some of the bolts to prevent krabs bending over the roof edges.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
10
Fat Chance Hotel
A good test-piece with a distinct crux. Use a knee-bar at the roof. The extension is the longest and most pumpy route at...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
11
Day of the Lords
Use a long sling on the third bolt.
4 user comments
 
Technical
7a
12
Minimum Maximum
Boulder out the bolt line exactly with no swinging in from the right at the start. High in the grade.
 
1 Stars
7b+
13
Ken Wilson's Last Stand
Steep climbing with a long reach to a flake.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7a
14
With or Without You
A pleasant technical pitch which climbs the grey wall to finish as for Ken Wilson's Last Stand.
 
1 Stars
6a+
15
Cold Steal
The staggered left-facing corner is awkward.
5 user comments
 6b
16
John Craven's Willy Warmer
Subtle bridging makes this well worth doing. Probably the easiest route in the quarry - if you can get off the ground.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
5c
17
Taylor-made Tracking Damage
Now harder due to hold loss and extreme polish.
4 user comments
 6c+
18
Alienation
A technical eliminate. Start up A Sea Without Water then break left immediately to climb the difficult blank groove - which...
1 user comment
 
Technical
7a
19
A Sea Without Water
A bouldery start gains some jugs from where increasingly technical and sustained moves lead with interest past a small roof to...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
20
Option B
The dusty shot-holed overhangs left of the arete.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Pumpy
6c+
21
Eye am the Sky
Trend right around the arete and finish with a crux reach for the belay.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
  • Latest Comments

    For DANCING LEDGE

    Hiccup
    "Crimpy stuff followed by juggy stuff. Much better than the description suggests...." 17/May

    Skinhead Clash
    "Second bolt replaced." 23/Mar

    Daylight Robbery
    "Climbing it this weekend, I pulled the big horn off at the end of the crux secti..." 31/Jan

    John Craven's Willy Warmer
    "Above the bulge, 1m before the lower off, the flake you may grab to pull onto th..." 23/Oct

    Sugar Ray
    "an excellent little power endurance sprint. cool moves with no real rest." 13/Sep

    Skinhead Clash
    "The bolt holes and some glue are visible where the 2nd bolt used to be. Possibly..." 08/Jul

    Skinhead Clash
    "June 2010 - 2nd bolt missing" 25/Jun

    John Craven's Willy Warmer
    "Good value at 5+, pleasant climbing on a strong natural line" 08/Oct

    Slopin' and Hopin'
    "done on very hot august day, felt very hard and mage pumpy! very good tho!" 31/Aug

    Sea of Holes
    "There has been a slight mudslide at the top of this route - take a helmet!" 12/Jul

    Borra Ring
    "went to climb this one and found the rock really greasy, couldnt get to the seco..." 27/May

    Slave to the Cave
    "Now rebolted." 11/Oct

    Fat Chance Hotel
    "Was completely lost on first attempt and then I realised I had to pull harder. ..." 22/Sep

    Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues
    "Looked like a necky lead. I found the hard part getting onto the slab near the l..." 22/Aug

    The Ghost of Ian Curtis
    "Getting to the cornflakes is tricky - I can reach it from the knee bar (I am 1.8..." 04/Aug

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