Adjacent Areas
< The Quarry - Centre | Graveyard Area >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
25 minsDry in the Rain
The overhang strewn right-hand side of the quarry has a number of excellent and powerful routes, a few of which offer the chance of climbing in light rain. Guidebook page 302.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Negative Creep A butch pitch that ascends a shallow leftward-leaning flake and groove. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 6b+ |
2 |
Slap, Bang on a Hang A very short route over a roof. 1 user comment | Strong | 6c |
3 |
Corona Envelope The right-hand side of the scoop is very bouldery. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Strong | 7b+ |
4 |
Corona Connection A pumpy link-up from Corona Envelope into Prophets of Rage, via a short finger traverse. | 1 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 7b+ |
5 |
Prophets of Rage A tough but excellent route which has a right-hand variant on the mid-section also at 7b. The direct start is 7b+ ish. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 7b |
6 |
Haunted by a Million Screams An excellent jug haul up some steep ground and a slight groove through the overhangs. A Dancing Ledge classic. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
7 |
The Ghost of Ian Curtis Steep moves, knee-bars and a cornflake-sized crux hold. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 7c+ |
8 |
Atrocity Exhibition Some fierce moves up the blank groove. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
9 |
The Wonders of Wallkraft The steep crack-line. Use long slings on some of the bolts to prevent krabs bending over the roof edges. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
10 |
Fat Chance Hotel A good test-piece with a distinct crux. Use a knee-bar at the roof. The extension is the longest and most pumpy route at... 9 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
11 |
Day of the Lords Use a long sling on the third bolt. 4 user comments | Technical | 7a |
12 |
Minimum Maximum Boulder out the bolt line exactly with no swinging in from the right at the start. High in the grade. | 1 Stars | 7b+ |
13 |
Ken Wilson's Last Stand Steep climbing with a long reach to a flake. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | 7a |
14 |
With or Without You A pleasant technical pitch which climbs the grey wall to finish as for Ken Wilson's Last Stand. | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
15 |
Cold Steal The staggered left-facing corner is awkward. 5 user comments | 6b | |
16 |
John Craven's Willy Warmer Subtle bridging makes this well worth doing. Probably the easiest route in the quarry - if you can get off the ground. 10 user comments | 1 Stars | 5+ |
17 |
Taylor-made Tracking Damage Now harder due to hold loss and extreme polish. 4 user comments | 6c+ | |
18 |
Alienation A technical eliminate. Start up A Sea Without Water then break left immediately to climb the difficult blank groove - which... 1 user comment | Technical | 7a |
19 |
A Sea Without Water A bouldery start gains some jugs from where increasingly technical and sustained moves lead with interest past a small roof to... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6c |
20 |
Option B The dusty shot-holed overhangs left of the arete. 2 user comments | Reachy Pumpy | 6c+ |
21 |
Eye am the Sky Trend right around the arete and finish with a crux reach for the belay. | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | 7a+ |