Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
25 minsAbseil
Windy
The next set of routes is on the face to the east of the quarry. The first few can be reached from the quarry, though those further right require committing approaches by abseil. They offer rewarding outings in superb situations but see few ascents. Guidebook page 307.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Now and Always An innocuous-looking route that is in reality quite steep, and has a tough crux. One of the better routes at Dancing Ledge. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
2 |
Lover's Leap From the bolt-belay 5m right of Now and Always, climb a series of bulges with a dynamic crux to a welded block. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 7a+ |
3 |
Born Again An elegant groove-line. Worth seeking out - one of the best of the grade at Swanage. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
4 |
Hieronymous GBH An atmospheric climb tackling the wall above and right of the cave. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
5 |
Dante's Inferno Climb to a hanging groove via a fierce, pocketed crack, then tackle the bulge and wall. Head left at the top. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 7a+ |
6 |
Sea of Holes The line of this atmospheric route is completely hidden, just left of a big sea-cave. Start from a hanging belay, before some... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6b |
7 |
Song to the Siren A great route which follows the huge pillar-face to some leaning tufas. Sadly, it is usually a drainage line in winter. To... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
8 |
White Rave A hidden route up the pocketed wall and slab to the right of the green drainage streak. Abseil to a hanging stance, with 2... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
9 |
Ten-K-Rig Start at the bolt-belay of White Rave. Traverse right to the base of a crack then follow the crack through a bulge to a niche.... | E4 6a | |