Goliath's Groove

Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

An attractive series of aretes and walls that include some of the very best offerings on the whole cliff. As might be expected the area is always popular, though fortunately there is usually enough to go round! Goliath's Groove itself is the mega-classic (though climbing wall types have been known to question this), and the trio of big aretes are also 'must-do' routes - if you are up to it!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mate
This takes the short buttress on the left. Climb the rib to the break, move round and finish with a flourish.
 
Reachy
Rounded
E1 5b
2
Cheque
The short steep corner to an awkward exit.
 
Graunchy
HVD 4a
3
Giro
The narrow tower left of the bouldery gully is climbed via the arete. At the roof, move right for an extended-reach finale.
 
Reachy
Rounded
E2 5c
4
P.O. Crack
The piggish orifice in the left side of the gully. Grunt away.
 
Graunchy
HS 4b
5
Jammed Stone Gully
The gully with jammed stones in it - innit?
 
Graunchy
VD
6
Slanting Chimney
The chimney in the right wall of the gully is flared and awkward.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HS 4b
7
The Coign
The attractive angular arete. Climb the short crack and lower arete, then step awkwardly up on to the main arete which is...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4b
8
Outlook Slab
Climb the horizontally-cracked slab up its centre. The well protected crux move is at the steepening.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
VS 5a
9
Wall End Crack Direct
The widening upper crack is reached via a short action-packed jamming crack. The upper part is tricky to protect. The original...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
10
Death, Night and Blood
Start as for the last route, but step right and access the arete from the ramp. The final precarious section is reach and...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
11
Wall End Flake Crack
Climb the corner-crack of Wall End Crack Direct then take the sloping ramp to the foot of twin flakes. Climb the left-hand of...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
12
Wall End Holly Tree Crack
Reach the flake via the thin crack in the left wall of Helfenstein's Struggle (or better, start up the previous route, crowds...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
13
I Never Said It Was Any Good
The short crack to a long reach then the wall above on slopers is actually not too bad if it is dry.
 
Reachy
E1 5b
14
Helfenstein's Struggle
The wide black rift is oddly alluring. A short polished corner leads to easier ground heading for the large boulder blocking...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVD 4a
15
Saul's Arete
Excellent and underrated with some great positions - an Ellis's Eliminate for grown-ups. Swing along the lowest break then...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
16
Dark Angel
From the break on Helfenstein's, continue up the left arete. The grade is a bit of a guess since it was originally given HVS,...
 
Technical
Strong
E4 6b
17
The Archangel
A totally committing layback up the left side of the superb arete. Side-runners should be avoided at all costs. From the...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5b
18
Don
The right-hand side is as good, longer and just as unprotected.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
19
Goliath's Groove
The fine twisting groove is one of the best routes on the crag though not all agree! The initial corner is the thrutchy crux...
40 user comments
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5a
20
Doncaster's Route
Ascend Goliath's Groove to the midway ledge then go up the short slab on the right to another ledge. Finish up the thin crack...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
21
Ulysses' Bow
The square-cut arete requires stacks of commitment and technique. Each move is harder than the one before, all the way to the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
22
Hollybush Gully Left
The square-cut corner is climbed via the awkward left-hand crack to the top of the flakes. The right-hand crack is a good...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
23
White Wand
Another bald, bold and brilliant arete. Getting established on the sharp section of the arete is the crux - above this a...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
24
Hollybush Gully Right Direct
A short direct start to the upper gully gives some jamming.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
25
Hollybush Gully Right
A vintage outing from JWP. Climb blocks rightwards and make a hand-traverse back left (not much gear) to reach the gully. The...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
26
Leaps and Bounds
From Hollybush Gully, move out left and climb the arete with tricky moves above the break.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
27
Fairy Groove
The boulder problem groove leads to the ledge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V5 6C
28
Gnome Man's Land
Either climb Fairy Groove, or scramble round and belay on the ledge below Fairy Steps. The wall above is bold, reachy and...
 
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
29
Fairy Steps
An excellent and exciting route crossing the wide smooth wall - not a place for wobblers. From a grassy ledge, climb the steep...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4a
30
Fairy Steps Escape
The corner in its entirety.
 
1 Stars
VD
31
Double Act
The short arete on the right in two stages is technically interesting. Tackle both section on the left by laybacking.
 
Technical
HVS 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Crescent Groovelet
    "Changed from V1 5b * to V2 5c *, no votes" 21/Jan

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

    Outlook Buttress
    "Solid E1." 16/Oct

    Nightmare Slab
    "Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in ot..." 10/Sep

    Crossover
    "Worthwhile route with varied climbing. The bold slab isn't too hard and good cam..." 12/Jul

    Cinturato
    "This is one of those routes where, if you're cruising at E3, it'll seem like a p..." 19/Jun

    Paradise Crack
    "Mates first lead on grit (and only his second climb on the stuff). There's loads..." 07/Jun

    The Count
    "Looks from the votes and comments that this doesn't start with a V5 boulder prob..." 24/Apr

    The Left Unconquerable
    "did this after 2 hours of bouldering so felt pumpy and got more tired from placi..." 07/Sep top50

    Search for comments