Goliath's Groove

Adjacent Areas
< Wall End Slab  |  Crescent Arete Bouldering >

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Early morning sun
12 mins
Uphill
Windy

An attractive set of aretes and walls that include some of the best offerings on the cliff. As might be expected, the area is always popular, though fortunately there is usually enough to go round! Goliath's Groove itself is the mega-classic (though folks not tuned-in to grit have been known to question this), and the trio of big aretes are also routes to aspire to, if you are up to them!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mate
This takes the short buttress on the left. Climb the rib to the break, move round and finish with a flourish.
1 user comment
 E1
2
Cheque
The short steep corner to an awkward exit.
 
Graunchy
HVD
3
Giro
The narrow tower left of the bouldery gully is climbed via the arete. At the roof, move right for an extended-reach finale....
 E2
4
P.O. Crack
The piggish orifice in the left side of the gully. Grunt away.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HS
5
Jammed Stone Gully
The gully with jammed stones in it - innit?
 
Graunchy
VD
6
Slanting Chimney
The chimney in the right wall of the gully is flared and awkward.
2 user comments
 
Graunchy
HS
7
The Coign
The attractive angular arete. Climb the short crack and lower arete, then step awkwardly up onto the main arete which is...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
8
Outlook Slab
Climb the horizontally-cracked slab up its centre. The well protected crux move is at the steepening.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
9
Wall End Crack Direct
The widening upper crack is reached via a short action-packed jamming crack. The upper part is tricky to protect. The original...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HS
10
Death, Night and Blood
Start as for the last route, but step right and access the arete from the ramp. The final precarious section is reachy and...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
11
Wall End Flake Crack
Climb the corner-crack of Wall End Crack Direct then take the sloping ramp to the foot of twin flakes. Climb the left-hand of...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS
12
Wall End Holly Tree Crack
Reach the flake via the thin crack in the left wall of Helfenstein's Struggle (or better, start up the previous route, crowds...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
13
I Never Said It Was Any Good
The short crack to a long reach then the wall above on slopers is actually not too bad if it is dry.
1 user comment
 E1
14
Helfenstein's Struggle
The wide black rift is oddly alluring. A short polished corner leads to easier ground heading for the large boulder blocking...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVD
15
Saul's Arete
Excellent and underrated with some great positions - an Ellis's Eliminate for grown-ups. Swing along the lowest break then...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
16
Dark Angel
From the break on Helfenstein's, continue up the left arete. The grade is a bit of a guess since it was originally given HVS,...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
E4
17
The Archangel
A totally committing layback up the left side of the superb arete. Side-runners should be avoided at all costs. From the...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
E3
18
Don
The right-hand side is as good, longer and just as unprotected.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E4
19
Goliath's Groove
The fine twisting groove is one of the best routes on the crag though not all agree! The initial corner is the thrutchy crux...
40 user comments
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
20
Doncaster's Route
Ascend Goliath's Groove to the midway ledge then go up the short slab on the right to another ledge. Finish up the thin crack...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
21
Ulysses' Bow
The square-cut arete requires stacks of commitment and technique. Each move is harder than the one before, all the way to the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6
22
Hollybush Gully Left
The square-cut corner is climbed via the awkward left-hand crack to the top of the flakes. The right-hand crack is a good...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS
23
White Wand
Another bald, bold and brilliant arete. Getting established on the sharp section of the arete is the crux - above this a...
 
3 Stars
E5
24
Hollybush Gully Right Direct
A short direct start to the upper gully gives some good jamming.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
25
Hollybush Gully Right
A vintage outing from JWP. Climb blocks rightwards and make a hand-traverse back left (not much gear) to reach the gully. The...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
26
Leaps and Bounds
From Hollybush Gully, move out left and climb the arete with tricky moves above the break.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1
27
Last Arete
The left arete of the slab climbed on its right-hand side.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
28
Fairy Groove
The boulder problem groove leads to the ledge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6C
29
Gnome Man's Land
Climb Fairy Groove, or scramble round and belay on the ledge below Fairy Steps. The wall above is bold, reachy and technical.
 
Technical
E5
30
Fairy Steps
An excellent and exciting route crossing the wide smooth wall - not a place for wobblers. From a grassy ledge, climb the steep...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
31
Fairy Steps Escape
The corner in its entirety.
 
1 Stars
VD
32
Double Act
The short arete on the right in two stages is technically interesting. Tackle both section on the left by laybacking.
 
Technical
HVS