Goliath's Groove

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

An attractive series of aretes and walls that include some of the very best offerings on the whole cliff. As might be expected the area is always popular, though fortunately there is usually enough to go round! Goliath's Groove itself is the mega-classic (though climbing wall types have been known to question this), and the trio of big aretes are also 'must-do' routes - if you are up to it! Guidebook page 134.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cheque
6m. The short steep corner to an awkward exit.
 HVD 4a
2
Giro
10m. The narrow tower left of the bouldery gully is climbed via the arete. At the roof, move right for an extended-reach...
 
Reachy
Rounded
E2 5c
3
Slanting Chimney
10m. The chimney in the right wall of the gully is wide and awkward at the top.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
S 4a
4
The Coign
16m. The attractive angular arete. Climb the short crack and lower arete, then step up onto the main arete which is followed...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
5
Outlook Slab
16m. Climb the horizontally-cracked slab up its centre. The well protected crux move is at the steepening.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
6
Wall End Crack Direct
16m. The widening upper crack is approached via a short jamming crack. The upper part is awkward to protect.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
7
Death and Night and Blood
18m. Start as for the last route, but step right onto the exposed and delicate arete. The final precarious section is often...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
8
Wall End Flake-crack
20m. Climb the corner-crack of Wall End Crack Direct then take the sloping ramp to the foot of twin flakes. Climb the left-hand...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
9
Wall End Holly Tree Crack
18m. Reach the flake via the thin crack in the left wall of Helfenstein's Struggle (or better, start up the previous route -...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
10
Helfenstein's Struggle
16m. The wide black rift is alluring. A short polished corner leads to easier ground heading for the large boulder blocking the...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVD 4a
11
Saul's Arete
20m. Traverse the break and climb the fine upper arete.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
12
The Archangel
22m. A totally committing layback up the left side of the superb arete. Side-runners should be avoided by all but the...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5b
13
Don
22m. The right-hand side is good, harder and unprotected.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
14
Goliath's Groove
22m. The fine twisting groove may be the best route on the crag though not all agree! The initial corner proves to be the...
40 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
15
Doncaster's Route
24m. Ascend Goliath's Groove to the midway ledge then go up the short slab on the right to another ledge. Finish up the thin...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
16
Ulysses' Bow
20m. The square-cut arete requires stacks of commitment and technique. Each move is harder than the one before, all the way to...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
17
Hollybush Gully Left
20m. The square-cut corner is climbed via the awkward left-hand crack to the top of the flakes. Continue up the groove passing...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
18
White Wand
22m. Another bald, bold and brilliant arete. Getting established on the sharp section of the arete is the crux - above this a...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6a
19
Hollybush Gully Right
20m. A vintage outing from JWP. Climb blocks rightwards and make a hand traverse back left (not much gear) to the gully. The...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
20
Gnome Man's Land
20m. The boulder problem groove leads to the ledge. The upper wall is the crux, being bold, reachy and technical.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
21
Fairy Steps
16m. An excellent, bold route crossing the wide smooth wall. From a grassy ledge climb the steep slab just left of the corner...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4a
22
Double Act
10m. The short arete on the right is technically interesting.
 
Technical
HVS 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

    Outlook Buttress
    "Solid E1." 16/Oct

    Nightmare Slab
    "Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in ot..." 10/Sep

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