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DWS

Afternoon sun

Up and Down

30 mins

A popular section of the quarry with some easier lines and a handful of tougher pitches on reasonable rock. Guidebook page 289.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Tethered by Gravity Great value for the grade. Climb just right of the blunt left-slanting arete, via a wide selection of large holds all the way... 7 user comments	1 Stars	4+
2	Goddam Sexual Tyrannosaurus A touch fluttery and polished, which is pretty good going for a route that gets no stars. 7 user comments	Technical Fluttery	5+
3	Ammonitemare Sustained, technical, and hard for the grade. 8 user comments	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	6a+
4	Of Mice and Men The corner line has some thin moves high up. 8 user comments	1 Stars Technical	6b
5	Bad Day Good technical climbing. A nice contrast to Hangs Like a Dead Man. The line is slightly left of the bolts. 6 user comments	1 Stars Technical	6c+
6	Moves for the Masses Top 50 Weird and wonderful flowstone. A nice route with technical moves on small crimps. The direct start is called One More Cheese... 13 user comments	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	6a+
7	Hangs Like a Dead Man A steep and popular route. Tricky moves to a hanging spike provide the meat of the route. 6 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	6c
8	Under Starters Orders/Realm of Radical Cool The slight bulging groove left of Jumping the Gun to moves rightwards crossing Jumping the Gun to finish up rightwards. 5 user comments	1 Stars Pumpy	7a+
9	Jumping the Gun The big diagonal flake is a delight in good conditions but unpleasantly slick if at all damp or greasy. Not one for an unsure... 9 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	6b
10	Mouth Breather Hard and painful undercutting through the roof. A good, tough Hedbury Quarry test-piece. 1 user comment	1 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c
11	Sureshot The big corner is often wet, but when dry is very good. 4 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	6c
12	Sexy Beast The striking leftward-slanting crack to the finish of Sureshot. 2 user comments	1 Stars Pumpy	7a
13	Alice In Pumpland A short lived teaser taking the appealing steep crack over the roof.	1 Stars Pumpy	7a
14	Cinderella's Big Score Since the loss of a big spike, the route is now an archetypal fitness test with a fierce crux entering the lower groove and a... 5 user comments	2 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy	7c
15	It Can't be Denied A really good, short power endurance effort which joins Cinderella's Big Score near the top. A standing start off a boulder... 3 user comments	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	7b
16	Dry Time Climb The black groove to the right of It Can't be Denied. Start part way up the grass slope and move left into the groove. The...		4+
17	Bop Ceroc A recently retro-bolted line with one hard sequence.	1 Stars	6b+
18	Glue Crux Clan A fine direct pitch with interesting moves all the way to the last bolt, but especially in the first 5m. 4 user comments	1 Stars Technical	6c
19	Produced by Fred Quimby An easier diagonal start to Glue Crux Clan and once again features a tough finish. 6 user comments	1 Stars Technical	6b+
20	Strange Devices A new line that follows bolts right of Produced by Fred Quimby to moves right to finish at the lower-off of Don's Long Gone.		4
21	Don's Long Gone The roof crack. Good steep fun. 2 user comments	1 Stars Strong	6b+
22	Mindless Optimism The short upper arete has some unusual moves utilising some stuck-on finger flakes on the very edge of the arete. 4 user comments	1 Stars	6b+
23	New Age, New Style Slabby and with a distinct crux. 10 user comments	1 Stars Pumpy	5+
24	Very Ordinary Route Yes a grade 1! The left-hand line in the blocky groove. 2 user comments	1 Stars	1
25	Another Contribution The right-hand line in the blocky groove. 1 user comment	1 Stars	2
26	Moral Flexibility The next line on the right, with a good finish. 4 user comments	1 Stars	5
27	Sea View The far right line, closest to the cliff edge. A tough finish. 6 user comments	1 Stars	3

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