The Quarry

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  The Big Cove >

DWS
Sun and Shade
30 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

Like near neighbours Winspit and Dancing Ledge , Hedbury Quarry is a well-frequented venue. The majority of the rock is good, and the routes are often pumpy and powerful. The grade range is wide, and Hedbury Quarry now has a degree of celebrity, being home to the UK's first grade 1 sport route!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tethered by Gravity
Great value for the grade. Climb just right of the blunt left-slanting arete, via a wide selection of large holds all the way...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
4c
2
Goddam Sexual Tyrannosaurus
A touch fluttery and polished, which is pretty good going for a route that gets no stars.
8 user comments
 
Technical
Fluttery
5c
3
Ammonitemare
Sustained, technical, and hard for the grade.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
4
Of Mice and Men
The corner line has some thin moves high up.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
5
Bad Day
Good technical climbing. A nice contrast to Hangs Like a Dead Man. The line is slightly left of the bolts.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
6
Moves for the Masses
Weird and wonderful flowstone. A nice route with technical moves on small crimps. The direct start is called One More Cheese...
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
7
Hangs Like a Dead Man
A steep and popular route. Tricky moves to a hanging spike provide the meat of the route.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
8
Under Starters Orders/Realm of Radical Cool
The slight bulging groove left of Jumping the Gun to moves rightwards crossing Jumping the Gun to finish up rightwards.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
9
Jumping the Gun
The big diagonal flake is a delight in good conditions but unpleasantly slick if at all damp or greasy. Not one for an unsure...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
10
Mouth Breather
Hard and painful undercutting through the roof. A good, tough Hedbury Quarry test-piece.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
11
Sureshot
The big corner is often wet, but when dry is very good.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
12
Sexy Beast
The striking leftward-slanting crack to the finish of Sureshot.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
13
Alice In Pumpland
A short lived teaser taking the appealing steep crack over the roof.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
14
Cinderella's Big Score
Since the loss of a big spike, the route is now an archetypal fitness test with a fierce crux entering the lower groove and a...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7c
15
It Can't be Denied
A really good, short power endurance effort which joins Cinderella's Big Score near the top. A standing start off a boulder...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b
16
Dry Time Climb
The black groove to the right of It Can't be Denied. Start part way up the grass slope and move left into the groove. The...
 4c
17
Bop Ceroc
A recently retro-bolted line with one hard sequence.
 
1 Stars
6b+
18
Glue Crux Clan
A fine direct pitch with interesting moves all the way to the last bolt, but especially in the first 5m.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
19
Produced by Fred Quimby
An easier diagonal start to Glue Crux Clan and once again features a tough finish.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
20
Strange Devices
A new line that follows bolts right of Produced by Fred Quimby to moves right to finish at the lower-off of Don's Long Gone.
 4a
21
Don's Long Gone
The roof crack. Good steep fun.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
6b+
22
Mindless Optimism
The short upper arete has some unusual moves utilising some stuck-on finger flakes on the very edge of the arete.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
23
New Age, New Style
Slabby and with a distinct crux.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
24
Very Ordinary Route
Yes a grade 1! The left-hand line in the blocky groove.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
1
25
Another Contribution
The right-hand line in the blocky groove.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
2
26
Moral Flexibility
The next line on the right, with a good finish.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
5a
27
Sea View
The far right line, closest to the cliff edge. A tough finish.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
3