The Big Cove

Adjacent Areas
< The Quarry  |  Smokey Hole >

Trad
Lots of sun!
30 mins
Up and Down
Restricted Access

This is a very intimidating cliff with huge, overhanging routes on often-suspect rock. The routes are adventurous, and the lines that the climbs take are extremely impressive. This is a great place to hang out on a hot day; it is easy to get to from Hedbury Cove, and has a private swimming spot in the cove.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Under the Sky, Above the Sea
An obvious challenge tackling the gymnastic roof crack above the centre of the platform. Start just right of a gap.1) 6b,...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5 6b
2
Sheffield Uber Alles
A pump-out up a very overhanging wall giving sensational climbing. Start 8m right of the gap, at a short groove and thread at...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
3
The Jesus Lizard
Another awesome climb which crosses even steeper ground than Sheffield Uber Alles. A big rack is needed. Start 3m right of...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
4
Once in the Jungle
A mercilessly steep and committing climbing. Start from the right-hand end of the access ledge.1) 6b, 25m. Climb a short...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E6 6b
5
Nowhere to Run
A fantastic voyage crossing the entire cove from right-to-left at roughly half height. Make sure you choose a long summer day...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E6 6b
6
The Fabulous Professor Panic
An intimidating and exposed pitch with good gear. Ascend a deep crack on the left, but where that continues out right, pull...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
7
Figurehead
Another exposed pitch but at a more friendly grade. Can be a bit dirty and dusty. Start as for Professor Panic by traversing...
 
1 Stars
E2 5b