Adjacent Areas
< The Quarry | Smokey Hole >
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Lots of sun!
Up and Down
30 minsWindy
Restricted Access
Bird ban 01/03-31/06.
This is a very intimidating cliff with huge, overhanging routes on often-suspect rock. The routes are adventurous, and the lines that the climbs take are extremely impressive. This is a great place to hang out on a hot day; it is easy to get to from Hedbury Cove, and has a private swimming spot in the cove. Guidebook page 292.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Under the Sky, Above the Sea An obvious challenge tackling the gymnastic roof crack above the centre of the platform. Start just right of a gap.1) 6b,... | 1 Stars Strong | E5 6b |
2 |
Sheffield Uber Alles A pump-out up a very overhanging wall giving sensational climbing. Start 8m right of the gap, at a short groove and thread at... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E6 6b |
3 |
The Jesus Lizard Another awesome climb which crosses even steeper ground than Sheffield Uber Alles. A big rack is needed. Start 3m right of... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E6 6b |
4 |
Once in the Jungle A mercilessly steep and committing climbing. Start from the right-hand end of the access ledge.1) 6b, 25m. Climb a short... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery Loose | E6 6b |
5 |
Nowhere to Run A fantastic voyage crossing the entire cove from right-to-left at roughly half height. Make sure you choose a long summer day... | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery Loose | E6 6b |
6 |
The Fabulous Professor Panic An intimidating and exposed pitch with good gear. Ascend a deep crack on the left, but where that continues out right, pull... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
7 |
Figurehead Another exposed pitch but at a more friendly grade. Can be a bit dirty and dusty. Start as for Professor Panic by traversing... | 1 Stars | E2 5b |
