Smokey Hole

Adjacent Areas
< The Big Cove  |  None >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
30 mins
Abseil
Restricted Access

Bird ban 01/03-31/06.


A huge leaning wall of good rock with routes to match those on the Lean Machine face. It is hidden from view except for a sideways glimpse from Cliff-Top Quarry. This little quarry is the gearing-up point. Guidebook page 294.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Slow Dive
A complicated and serious pitch on good rock. High in the grade. Trend left via a groove to a small ledge (runners on left)....
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
2
Diving for Pearls
The central line is very sustained, with a fairly bold start. From the bolt-belay, climb direct up a slight groove (RPs and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
3
Vapour Trail
The best route here. Start from a hanging belay, 5m right of the bolt-belay. Ascend the pillar (peg) past hard and serious...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6b
4
Rocket USA
Not as serious as Vapour Trail but steeper. It follows the groove system overlooking the zawn on the right. Start at a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
5
Aquamarine
16m. This amazing bit of architecture is thoroughly absorbing. It is most usually climbed both ways, and often reversed to gain...
 
2 Stars
DWS
5 S2
6
Marvellous Maggs
15m. The full-length line on the buttress is a tasty one. From the easy way down, follow Zircon leftwards to the arete, and...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6a+ S1
7
Zircon
14m. The buttress's left arete is startlingly good. Traverse the excellent break leftwards along the lip of the long overhang....
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6a+ S1
8
Gemzone
11m. By way of contrast to the juggy passage of the last three routes, this one gives a fingery crux on the smooth face. Follow...
 
DWS
Crimpy
6b+ S0
9
Jargoniser
10m. From the left-hand end of the start ledge, climb up and head onto the technical slab above, moving gradually leftwards....
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
6a+ S1
  • Latest Comments

    For HEDBURY

    Sea View
    "Lovely climb with a beautiful view. Loose rock everywhere adds to the fun. Anch..." 27/May

    Sea View
    "the natural hold just below second bolt from top is a loose - not a problem as t..." 12/Mar

    Of Mice and Men
    "really hard getting out over the corner, i think alot of balance is needed for t..." 06/Feb

    Glue Crux Clan
    "Line in the book finishes very direct from last bolt but there's no way at this ..." 25/Sep

    Sexy Beast
    "A burly start followed by more delicate stuff above. Great fun." 17/May

    Sea View
    "The finish is indeed tough, sort of surprising after the easy start." 11/Sep

    Moves for the Masses
    "Yep, I found it tough! Initial moves are fine, then there's a hard move to get u..." 08/Oct top50

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