Smokey Hole

Adjacent Areas
< The Big Cove  |  None >

Trad
Sun and Shade
30 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

A huge leaning wall of good rock with routes to match those on the Lean Machine face. It is hidden from view except for a sideways glimpse from Cliff-Top Quarry. This little quarry is the gearing-up point. There are also a few routes in the small quarry above the wall known as Topmast Quarry.
Approach - The Cliff-Top Quarry is situated 50m further on from Topmast Quarry, which in turn is 300m west from Dancing Ledge. The descent path is below some planks on the coast path that cross a dry stream bed. The four routes are gained by an abseil from a point 10m left (looking out) of the descent to the Cliff-Top Quarry. The abseil leads down Diving for Pearls to a solid bolt-belay just above the high water line (backed up by the abseil rope). It maybe necessary to swing-in on the abseil or place nuts on the way down to stay in contact with the rock. All four climbs can be gained from this belay.
Tides - The belay bolt is above the high tide mark but keep away in rough seas.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Slow Dive
A complicated and serious pitch on good rock. High in the grade. Trend left via a groove to a small ledge (runners on left)....
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
2
Diving for Pearls
The central line is very sustained, with a fairly bold start. From the bolt-belay, climb direct up a slight groove (RPs and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
3
Vapour Trail
The best route here. Start from a hanging belay, 5m right of the bolt-belay. Ascend the pillar (peg) past hard and serious...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7
4
Rocket USA
Not as serious as Vapour Trail but steeper. It follows the groove system overlooking the zawn on the right. Start at a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6
5
Aquamarine
16m. This amazing bit of architecture is thoroughly absorbing. It is most usually climbed both ways, and often reversed to gain...
 
2 Stars
DWS
5a S2
6
Marvellous Maggs
15m. The full-length line on the buttress is a tasty one. From the easy way down, follow Zircon leftwards to the arete, and...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6a+ S1
7
Zircon
14m. The buttress's left arete is startlingly good. Traverse the excellent break leftwards along the lip of the long overhang....
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6a+ S1
8
Gemzone
11m. By way of contrast to the juggy passage of the last three routes, this one gives a fingery crux on the smooth face. Follow...
 
DWS
Crimpy
6b+ S0
9
Jargoniser
10m. From the left-hand end of the start ledge, climb up and head onto the technical slab above, moving gradually leftwards....
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
6a+ S1
10
Bar Code
The line on the left-hand side of the deep cave.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b
11
Bar King Mad
The central line links to the upper part of Bar Code.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
12
Isobar
The right-hand neighbour, but finish by swinging left to the lower-off of Bar Code/Bar King Mad.
 
Strong
Pumpy
7a