South Face

Adjacent Areas
< Quarryman's Wall  |  None >

Sport
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The South Face of Winspit is a steep and sunny section of cliff that has a number of good lines. Most of the better routes are steep and powerful, crossing low-level roof stacks before finishing up a vertical headwall. A few of the starts utilise cairns to reach the first holds, and these often need rebuilding.
Approach - On entering the quarry, bear left and continue around the corner from the Quarryman's Wall.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Agonies of a Dying Mind
A powerful start and a friable finish. The start gives a good V4 boulder problem in isolation.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a
2
Dick Dastardly
A tricky route that is difficult to on-sight. There are only two or three hard moves, but they are tough.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
3
Korean South Face Route
Good climbing with a tough finish. The bolts are placed in poor locations.
 
1 Stars
6c+
4
Lips of a Stranger
Surprisingly good moves over the shattered roof and up the groove.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
Loose
6c+
5
Fragile Mind
The steep left-hand line up the impressive crack. Take care with a couple of holds at the start.
 
1 Stars
Strong
6c+
6
Card of Hearts
More strenuous stuff taking the right-hand bolt-line after starting up Fragile Mind, with a technical bridging finale.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a+
7
Chrissy
A good thuggy start off a wobbly jug leads to a testing mid-section and some very fine bridging in the groove. Excellent and...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
8
Chick Power
An eliminate that has a fierce boulder-problem crux midway.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
9
Revhead's Hi-roller
A steep start leads to the exposed arete to finish.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
10
First Dazes of Summer
The steep groove and bulges above the roof right of Revhead's Hi-roller.
 
1 Stars
6c
11
Mackerel
The groove and flowstone with the main difficulties at the start and finish.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
5a
12
Stargazy
The thin crack to the right of Mackeral is tricky towards the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
13
Knickerless Crutches
The thin crack, with one tricky move that is very run out.
7 user comments
 
Fluttery
6b+
14
Premenstrual Princess
Takes the short open corner that is gained from the left. Finish up the wall right of the bolts.
 
Loose
6b+
15
Damnation Game
A classy and sustained pitch to the left of the big cave.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
16
Frightened of the Sun
A difficult start leads to steep moves around the lip of the large roof. Good wall climbing finishes this spectacular line.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
17
Disbelief Suspended
Climb the same difficult start as Frightened of the Sun to a very spectacular roof. Finish up the wall above, joining...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
18
Disbelief Reinvented
Start up Souls of Mischief to the roof then climb left through the crux roof of Disbelief Suspended to finish.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
19
Souls of Mischief
The old project from the left-hand ground level cairn has now been completed. From atop the cairn, climb the bouldery crack to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
20
The Pizza Express
Follow Souls of Mischief to its 4th bolt, then, with hands on the lip of the roof, break right to the knee-bar on Lunacy Booth....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
21
Lunacy Booth
An entertaining, big and burly roof climb starting from the right-hand pile of boulders in the centre of the cave. A good...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
22
Nosey
A short pitch with a bold finish.
 
Fluttery
6a+
23
Rampant Love Jugs
Start in the dip 8m right of Nosey. Highly enjoyable if a little runout in places. No piling rocks under the start - jumping is...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
6b
24
Plaice a Bolt
Start up a corner, then move left to another corner and climb this to a lower-off.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
5a
25
Fishy Business
The right-hand corner gives some worthwhile climbing. Start up Plaice a Bolt.
 
1 Stars
5c
26
Silver Bream Machine
The line of bolts to the right of the corner of Fishy Business. The top section gives the hardest climbing.
 
1 Stars
6c
27
Gorilla Tactics
Good climbing. The route has cleaned up and has been rebolted.
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
28
Flash Heart Direct
The buttress right of the cave entrance is taken by this steep and well bolted line.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
6b
29
On the List
The arete to the right of Flash Heart Direct. Climb the arete and at the third bolt stretch left for a crack and good gear....
 E2
30
Rubic's Hex
A trad line up the steep loose crack and corner above.
 VS
31
Hot Beef Injection
Line to the left of Birthday Treat. From a boulder, climb direct up the face.
 6b
32
Birthday Treat
Climb the corner right of Flash Heart Direct moving left on the upper wall to finish.
 5c