Dungy Head/Church Rock

Adjacent Areas
< Durdle Door  |  Stair Hole West Cave >

Sport
Sun and Shade
Up and Down
10 mins
Restricted Access

Church Rock is the isolated pinnacle down on the boulder beach west of Lulworth Cove. The rock has some decent short pitches. Dungy Head refers to the ridge of pinnacles situated high above the sea, just past Church Rock. Guidebook page 251.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pickpocket
Follow the line of old bolts up the central line.
 5
2
Morris the Carnivore
Varied climbing starting from a bolt-belay at the base. It is best approached by abseiling from a stake on the top of the crag.
 6a+
3
Beavis and Butthead
A poor and very loose route up the left-hand arete.
1 user comment
 
Loose
6a
4
Beers, Steers and Queers
The roof then a sustained wall above. The crux clip has seen some flyers. The lower-off is on a boulder.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
5
Dungeons and Dragons
A roof leads to blind moves above and a shared lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
6
Shoes for my Friends
The arete with thuggy moves low down and balancy moves higher up in a groove.
 
1 Stars
6a+
7
Lost Souls
The exposed face left of the arete.
 6a+
8
Looking Through the Infinity Window
Good value. Move right onto the arete at the last bolt.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
9
Closing Time
A stamina test up the leaning white wall. Start from a belay in the corner. Going left to the arete drops the grade to 7a.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7a+
10
The Debt Collector
The left-hand side of the inland face via a shallow depression.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
11
Wall of Feedback
A vague crack left of the right-hand arete is a good pitch.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
12
Blow Me!
The fingery wall just to the left of the arete.
 7a
13
Blow Daddy-O
An eye-catching trad route up the spectacular arete.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
14
House Nation
Excellent climbing up the steep pocketed wall, starting just right of the arete and moving rightwards.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
15
Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane
The juggy vein in the centre of the west face. A micro-gem. Can be linked to House Nation by moving left on an undercut after...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
16
Turn It On
A good but hard problem that takes on the leaning wall via some fingery moves. Shared belay.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7b
  • Latest Comments

    For LULWORTH

    Adrenochrome
    "Same start as Horny Lil Devil" 01/May

    The Maypole
    "This climb is really comfortable till you enter the cave. Once you enter the cav..." 13/Sep

    Lower than Whale Shit
    "Did this today starting from the 'window' i.e. the reverse of the description gi..." 28/Aug

    Gates of Greyskull
    "Helpful block at start of Gates has disappeared into sea, makes first move sligh..." 07/Jun

    Horny Lil' Devil
    "I thought it was on the other side of the arch....whoops" 29/Jun top50

    Gates of Greyskull
    "There is a great alternitive start that can be done, "Skullthugery" 7c..." 28/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "On reflection (looked at this on Sunday), you would probably miss the ledges in ..." 03/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "S1 I think not. Very Serious over large ledges, loose rock and the upper slab w..." 02/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "Water below? Surely some mistake - a fall would very probably land you on proje..." 25/Sep

    Adrenochrome
    "Sorry Rich, i thought i had read somewhere that you had, my mistake. It was a go..." 14/Sep

    Adrenochrome
    "Hi there, I practiced it on a rope, but I didnt redpoint it. Rich." 14/Sep

    Wall of Feedback
    "The start is significantly harder than the 6b+ grade would suggest- with a move ..." 06/Sep

    Search for comments