Stair Hole - West Cave

Sport
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Up and Down
Restricted Access

The west cave is somewhat overshadowed by its neighbour, but still offers some fine routes in a dramatic setting. A number of deep water solos have also been done inside the skull-shaped cave. These are very esoteric and usually greasy and green; best reserved for summer when it is too hot outside.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cheddar Direct
5, S2. Climb the steep nose and easy slab above.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Banned
VS
2
Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way
6a+, S1. A touch friable at the top.
 
1 Stars
Banned
E2
3
Crazy Notion
7a+, S1. Climb Animal Magnetism to its second bolt, then move straight up the overhanging wall. A committing pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Banned
E5
4
Animal Magnetism
S1. The ramp is short, but intense.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Banned
Pumpy
7a+
5
Journey to Eternia
S1. A left-to-right diagonal link-up giving superb climbing. Start up Animal Magnetism, reverse the crux of Magnetic Gates and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
6
Never Kneel to Skeletor
S1. Start at a bolt-belay. Extremely technical and powerful.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Banned
Pumpy
7c+
7
Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy
S1. Link up of Never Kneel to Skeletor into Journey to Eternia.
 
2 Stars
8a
8
Hurbot the Turbot
7a+, S1. A left-to-right line across the hanging ramp.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Banned
E4
9
Skullthugery
7c, S2. Reverse Hurbot the Turbot until on the hanging slab in the middle of the arch. Make wild horizontal moves outwards...
 
3 Stars
Banned
E6
10
Gates of Greyskull
S1. A superb route direct through the cave roof.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Banned
Pumpy
7b+
11
Magnetic Gates
S1. An exciting right-to-left link-up. Start up Gates of Greyskull and break left, crossing Never Kneel to Skeletor via a...
 
1 Stars
Banned
Pumpy
7c
12
Magnetic Skulls
7c, S1. Link Skullthugery into Magnetic Gates taking in the crux of each.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
13
The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water Rats
6c+, S2. The short, overlapped roof into a groove right of Gates of Greyskull. Not one to fall off.
 
1 Stars
Banned
Fluttery
E4
14
Hairy Clamber
5, S2. Follow the slabs diagonally rightwards under the roofs before pulling over the narrowest section on jugs. Finish...
 
1 Stars
Banned
Pumpy
Fluttery
VS
15
Route 66
9m. This line is almost DWS caving, up high in the roof of the West Cave. From the hanging slab in the cave, make a bold move...
 
1 Stars
DWS
6a S1
16
Escobar
5m. Small and fun, but steep; expect a struggle. From The Maypole resting niche, crank rightwards across the inside of the arch...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7a S0
17
Contortions
5m. Another micro-gem. Take a spotter (at S1) for the finishing moves, where the finish slab is close to your head. From the...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7a S1
18
El Guapo
9m. “The Beautiful”. An excellent and bouldery test-piece requiring good conditions. From the window, attack the pockets on the...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7b+ S0
19
El Diablo Suelto
14m. The hardest route inside the West Cave, linking just about every hard move on offer between The Maypole and the small...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7c S1
20
Old Timer's Club
10m. Starting from the finishing ledge of El Guapo, swing rightwards across the steep, slotted wall, until a full body-drop to...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7b+ S1
21
Lower than Whale Shit
10m. This line traverses the east side of the cave at low tide only, and features some hard, technical moves. From the start...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
6c+ S0
22
Last Season's Loozas
60m. A terrific little escapade, traversing all the territory between the East and West Caves, thereafter continuing through...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
DWS
5a S1