Stair Hole West Cave

Sport
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Up and Down
Restricted Access

The west cave is somewhat overshadowed by its neighbour, but still offers some fine routes in a dramatic setting. A number of deep water solos have also been done inside the skull-shaped cave. These are very esoteric and usually greasy and green; best reserved for summer when it is too hot outside. See Deep Water www.rockfax.com for full details.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Laws Traverse
6b+, S0, 45m. An enjoyable low-level traverse. Start by scrambling around to a ledge in the first cave. Make a wild swing onto...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1 6a
2
Trashy's Arete
5, S2. The left side of the arete to a ledge. Reverse the route.
 
Fluttery
VS 4c
3
Laws Direct Start
6m. Outright burliness, but VERY close to the water indeed. This direct start swings through the prominent hole on big slopers...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
7b S1
4
The Brotherhood
7b+, S2. Direct up the buttress left of the diagonal break-line.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
5
The Walkin' Dude
6b+, S3. A pseudo deep water solo up the rising break-line.
2 user comments
 
Strong
Fluttery
Loose
E4 5c
6
Skillfish
6a+, S3. The higher diagonal break above The Walkin' Dude.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E3 5b
7
The Maypole
6a, S0, 80m. A very good circular traverse, and a fun introduction to the area. Start on the beach and head round the west tip...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
8
Thieving Gypsy
7b+, S0. A tough mission with blind moves. From the beach traverse to the boulder at the start of Window of Opportunity.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
9
Imp of the Perverse
7b+, S0. Follow Theiving Gypsy and then climb across a slab to gain the apex of the arch. Drop down and climb the underside of...
 
2 Stars
E6 6b
10
Cheddar Direct
5, S2. Climb the steep nose and easy slab above.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
11
Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way
6a+, S1. A touch friable at the top.
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
12
Crazy Notion
7a+, S1. Climb Animal Magnetism to its second bolt, then move straight up the overhanging wall. A committing pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E5 6b
13
Animal Magnetism Top 50
S1. The ramp is short, but intense.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
14
Journey to Eternia
S1. A left-to-right diagonal link-up giving superb climbing. Start up Animal Magnetism, reverse the crux of Magnetic Gates and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
15
Never Kneel to Skeletor
S1. Start at a bolt-belay. Extremely technical and powerful.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
16
Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy
S1. Link up of Never Kneel to Skeletor into Journey to Eternia.
 
2 Stars
8a
17
Hurbot the Turbot
7a+, S1. A left-to-right line across the hanging ramp.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E4 6b
18
Skullthugery
7c, S2. Reverse Hurbot the Turbot until on the hanging slab in the middle of the arch. Make wild horizontal moves outwards...
 
3 Stars
E6 6b
19
Gates of Greyskull
S1. A superb route direct through the cave roof.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
20
Magnetic Gates
S1. An exciting right-to-left link-up. Start up Gates of Greyskull and break left, crossing Never Kneel to Skeletor via a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7c
21
Magnetic Skulls
7c, S1. Link Skullthugery into Magnetic Gates taking in the crux of each.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
22
The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water Rats
6c+, S2. The short, overlapped roof into a groove right of Gates of Greyskull. Not one to fall off.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
23
Hairy Clamber
5, S2. Follow the slabs diagonally rightwards under the roofs before pulling over the narrowest section on jugs. Finish...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
VS 4c
24
Route 66
9m. This line is almost DWS caving, up high in the roof of the West Cave. From the hanging slab in the cave, make a bold move...
 
1 Stars
DWS
6a S1
25
Escobar
5m. Small and fun, but steep; expect a struggle. From The Maypole resting niche, crank rightwards across the inside of the arch...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7a S0
26
Contortions
5m. Another micro-gem. Take a spotter (at S1) for the finishing moves, where the finish slab is close to your head. From the...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7a S1
27
El Guapo
9m. “The Beautiful”. An excellent and bouldery test-piece requiring good conditions. From the window, attack the pockets on the...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7b+ S0
28
El Diablo Suelto
14m. The hardest route inside the West Cave, linking just about every hard move on offer between The Maypole and the small...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7c S1
29
Old Timer's Club
10m. Starting from the finishing ledge of El Guapo, swing rightwards across the steep, slotted wall, until a full body-drop to...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7b+ S1
30
Lower than Whale Shit
10m. This line traverses the east side of the cave at low tide only, and features some hard, technical moves. From the start...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
6c+ S0
31
Last Season's Loozas
60m. A terrific little escapade, traversing all the territory between the East and West Caves, thereafter continuing through...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
DWS
5a S1
  • Latest Comments

    For LULWORTH

    Adrenochrome
    "Same start as Horny Lil Devil" 01/May

    The Maypole
    "This climb is really comfortable till you enter the cave. Once you enter the cav..." 13/Sep

    Lower than Whale Shit
    "Did this today starting from the 'window' i.e. the reverse of the description gi..." 28/Aug

    Gates of Greyskull
    "Helpful block at start of Gates has disappeared into sea, makes first move sligh..." 07/Jun

    Horny Lil' Devil
    "I thought it was on the other side of the arch....whoops" 29/Jun top50

    Gates of Greyskull
    "There is a great alternitive start that can be done, "Skullthugery" 7c..." 28/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "On reflection (looked at this on Sunday), you would probably miss the ledges in ..." 03/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "S1 I think not. Very Serious over large ledges, loose rock and the upper slab w..." 02/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "Water below? Surely some mistake - a fall would very probably land you on proje..." 25/Sep

    Adrenochrome
    "Sorry Rich, i thought i had read somewhere that you had, my mistake. It was a go..." 14/Sep

    Adrenochrome
    "Hi there, I practiced it on a rope, but I didnt redpoint it. Rich." 14/Sep

    Wall of Feedback
    "The start is significantly harder than the 6b+ grade would suggest- with a move ..." 06/Sep

    Z-Cars
    "Got it 3rd go - definitely a 3 star route" 13/Aug

    The Maypole
    "did this climb at high tide... where are the foot holds inside the cave, under t..." 02/Jul

    Adrenochrome
    "I thought Rich redpointed it before he soloed it." 24/Jun

    Captain Bastard Got There First
    "This route climbs through the groove on pockets to left of Anarchy Stampede, sli..." 30/May

    Captain Bastard Got There First
    "Where does this route actually go then does it stay left of the arete and groove..." 29/May

    Sliding Down the Banister
    "Where is the E4 or 6a moves? Felt much easier than the Maypole to me." 22/May

    Animal Magnetism
    "Used to be a huge jug on the arete after the crux but some lanky northerner pull..." 25/Mar top50

    Window of Opportunity
    "Still find giving DWS routes a trad grade weird, wish I could do E5's in the Pea..." 24/Aug

    Horny Lil' Devil
    "mass ascent from the nottingham boys, but as usual pete fell off." 23/Aug top50

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