Adjacent Areas
< Dungy Head/Church Rock | Inner West Cave >
Sport
Sun and Shade
Up and Down
5 minsWindy
Restricted Access
The west cave is somewhat overshadowed by its neighbour, but still offers some fine routes in a dramatic setting. A number of deep water solos have also been done inside the skull-shaped cave. These are very esoteric and usually greasy and green; best reserved for summer when it is too hot outside. See Deep Water www.rockfax.com for full details. Guidebook page 252.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Laws Traverse 6b+, S0, 45m. An enjoyable low-level traverse. Start by scrambling around to a ledge in the first cave. Make a wild swing onto... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | E1 6a |
2 |
Trashy's Arete 5, S2. The left side of the arete to a ledge. Reverse the route. | Fluttery | VS 4c |
3 |
Laws Direct Start 6m. Outright burliness, but VERY close to the water indeed. This direct start swings through the prominent hole on big slopers... | 1 Stars DWS Strong | 7b S1 |
4 |
The Brotherhood 7b+, S2. Direct up the buttress left of the diagonal break-line. | 2 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
5 |
The Walkin' Dude 6b+, S3. A pseudo deep water solo up the rising break-line. 2 user comments | Strong Fluttery Loose | E4 5c |
6 |
Skillfish 6a+, S3. The higher diagonal break above The Walkin' Dude. | Fluttery Loose | E3 5b |
7 |
The Maypole 6a, S0, 80m. A very good circular traverse, and a fun introduction to the area. Start on the beach and head round the west tip... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | HVS 5b |
8 |
Thieving Gypsy 7b+, S0. A tough mission with blind moves. From the beach traverse to the boulder at the start of Window of Opportunity. | 1 Stars Pumpy | E5 6b |
9 |
Imp of the Perverse 7b+, S0. Follow Theiving Gypsy and then climb across a slab to gain the apex of the arch. Drop down and climb the underside of... | 2 Stars | E6 6b |
10 |
Cheddar Direct 5, S2. Climb the steep nose and easy slab above. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | VS 4c |
11 |
Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way 6a+, S1. A touch friable at the top. | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
12 |
Crazy Notion 7a+, S1. Climb Animal Magnetism to its second bolt, then move straight up the overhanging wall. A committing pitch. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | E5 6b |
13 |
Animal Magnetism Top 50 S1. The ramp is short, but intense. 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
14 |
Journey to Eternia S1. A left-to-right diagonal link-up giving superb climbing. Start up Animal Magnetism, reverse the crux of Magnetic Gates and... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c+ |
15 |
Never Kneel to Skeletor S1. Start at a bolt-belay. Extremely technical and powerful. | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |
16 |
Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy S1. Link up of Never Kneel to Skeletor into Journey to Eternia. | 2 Stars | 8a |
17 |
Hurbot the Turbot 7a+, S1. A left-to-right line across the hanging ramp. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E4 6b |
18 |
Skullthugery 7c, S2. Reverse Hurbot the Turbot until on the hanging slab in the middle of the arch. Make wild horizontal moves outwards... | 3 Stars | E6 6b |
19 |
Gates of Greyskull S1. A superb route direct through the cave roof. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7b+ |
20 |
Magnetic Gates S1. An exciting right-to-left link-up. Start up Gates of Greyskull and break left, crossing Never Kneel to Skeletor via a... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
21 |
Magnetic Skulls 7c, S1. Link Skullthugery into Magnetic Gates taking in the crux of each. | 2 Stars Pumpy | E6 6b |
22 |
The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water Rats 6c+, S2. The short, overlapped roof into a groove right of Gates of Greyskull. Not one to fall off. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
23 |
Hairy Clamber 5, S2. Follow the slabs diagonally rightwards under the roofs before pulling over the narrowest section on jugs. Finish... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | VS 4c |
