Stair Hole West Cave

Adjacent Areas
< Dungy Head/Church Rock  |  Inner West Cave >

Sport
Sun and Shade
Up and Down
5 mins
Restricted Access

The west cave is somewhat overshadowed by its neighbour, but still offers some fine routes in a dramatic setting. A number of deep water solos have also been done inside the skull-shaped cave. These are very esoteric and usually greasy and green; best reserved for summer when it is too hot outside. See Deep Water www.rockfax.com for full details. Guidebook page 252.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Laws Traverse
6b+, S0, 45m. An enjoyable low-level traverse. Start by scrambling around to a ledge in the first cave. Make a wild swing onto...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1 6a
2
Trashy's Arete
5, S2. The left side of the arete to a ledge. Reverse the route.
 
Fluttery
VS 4c
3
Laws Direct Start
6m. Outright burliness, but VERY close to the water indeed. This direct start swings through the prominent hole on big slopers...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
7b S1
4
The Brotherhood
7b+, S2. Direct up the buttress left of the diagonal break-line.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
5
The Walkin' Dude
6b+, S3. A pseudo deep water solo up the rising break-line.
2 user comments
 
Strong
Fluttery
Loose
E4 5c
6
Skillfish
6a+, S3. The higher diagonal break above The Walkin' Dude.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E3 5b
7
The Maypole
6a, S0, 80m. A very good circular traverse, and a fun introduction to the area. Start on the beach and head round the west tip...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
8
Thieving Gypsy
7b+, S0. A tough mission with blind moves. From the beach traverse to the boulder at the start of Window of Opportunity.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
9
Imp of the Perverse
7b+, S0. Follow Theiving Gypsy and then climb across a slab to gain the apex of the arch. Drop down and climb the underside of...
 
2 Stars
E6 6b
10
Cheddar Direct
5, S2. Climb the steep nose and easy slab above.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
11
Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way
6a+, S1. A touch friable at the top.
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
12
Crazy Notion
7a+, S1. Climb Animal Magnetism to its second bolt, then move straight up the overhanging wall. A committing pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E5 6b
13
Animal Magnetism Top 50
S1. The ramp is short, but intense.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
14
Journey to Eternia
S1. A left-to-right diagonal link-up giving superb climbing. Start up Animal Magnetism, reverse the crux of Magnetic Gates and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
15
Never Kneel to Skeletor
S1. Start at a bolt-belay. Extremely technical and powerful.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
16
Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy
S1. Link up of Never Kneel to Skeletor into Journey to Eternia.
 
2 Stars
8a
17
Hurbot the Turbot
7a+, S1. A left-to-right line across the hanging ramp.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E4 6b
18
Skullthugery
7c, S2. Reverse Hurbot the Turbot until on the hanging slab in the middle of the arch. Make wild horizontal moves outwards...
 
3 Stars
E6 6b
19
Gates of Greyskull
S1. A superb route direct through the cave roof.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
20
Magnetic Gates
S1. An exciting right-to-left link-up. Start up Gates of Greyskull and break left, crossing Never Kneel to Skeletor via a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7c
21
Magnetic Skulls
7c, S1. Link Skullthugery into Magnetic Gates taking in the crux of each.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
22
The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water Rats
6c+, S2. The short, overlapped roof into a groove right of Gates of Greyskull. Not one to fall off.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
23
Hairy Clamber
5, S2. Follow the slabs diagonally rightwards under the roofs before pulling over the narrowest section on jugs. Finish...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For LULWORTH

    Adrenochrome
    "Same start as Horny Lil Devil" 01/May

    The Maypole
    "This climb is really comfortable till you enter the cave. Once you enter the cav..." 13/Sep

    Lower than Whale Shit
    "Did this today starting from the 'window' i.e. the reverse of the description gi..." 28/Aug

    Gates of Greyskull
    "Helpful block at start of Gates has disappeared into sea, makes first move sligh..." 07/Jun

    Horny Lil' Devil
    "I thought it was on the other side of the arch....whoops" 29/Jun top50

    Gates of Greyskull
    "There is a great alternitive start that can be done, "Skullthugery" 7c..." 28/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "On reflection (looked at this on Sunday), you would probably miss the ledges in ..." 03/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "S1 I think not. Very Serious over large ledges, loose rock and the upper slab w..." 02/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "Water below? Surely some mistake - a fall would very probably land you on proje..." 25/Sep

    Adrenochrome
    "Sorry Rich, i thought i had read somewhere that you had, my mistake. It was a go..." 14/Sep

    Adrenochrome
    "Hi there, I practiced it on a rope, but I didnt redpoint it. Rich." 14/Sep

    Wall of Feedback
    "The start is significantly harder than the 6b+ grade would suggest- with a move ..." 06/Sep

    Z-Cars
    "Got it 3rd go - definitely a 3 star route" 13/Aug

    The Maypole
    "did this climb at high tide... where are the foot holds inside the cave, under t..." 02/Jul

    Adrenochrome
    "I thought Rich redpointed it before he soloed it." 24/Jun

    Captain Bastard Got There First
    "This route climbs through the groove on pockets to left of Anarchy Stampede, sli..." 30/May

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