Adjacent Areas
< Inner West Cave | Mojo-Pin Area >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill
10 minsWindy
Restricted Access
No access allowed
An awesome venue packed with brilliant pitches on magnificent rock. Some of the routes are bolted but many have also been deep water soloed. Guidebook page 256.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Captain Bastard Got There First 6a+, S0. From sea level, move right and climb a blunt arete. 5 user comments | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
2 |
Despicable Terrier 7a, S0. The arete to the right of Captain Bastard Got There First. | 1 Stars | E3 6a |
3 |
Anarchy Stampede 7a, S0. A steep blind crux not far above the sea. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | E3 6a |
4 |
Stagedivin' S1. Short and steep. Take care leaving the ledge if soloing. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | 7a+ |
5 |
I Love Eszter 6b, S0. At low tide, traverse across to the left corner of the arch. Graunch up the greasy chimney to join Horny Lil' Devil. 9 user comments | E3 5c | |
6 |
Window of Opportunity 7b, S0. Follow I Love Eszter until a line of good holds joins Horny Lil' Devil from below. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E5 6b |
7 |
Hornier Than Thou 7b+, S0. Climbs the arch from right to left below Horny l'il Devil. Reverse Window of Opportunity to finish. Strenuous. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E6 6b |
8 |
Thieving Gypsy 15m. A very hard solo with some steep and blind moves. Starting on the beach, traverse to the boulder at the start of Window of... | 1 Stars DWS Pumpy | E5 6b |
9 |
Sliding Down the Banister 6c, S0. A wild and dark route, starting as for Horny Lil' Devil, and going through the arch to the beach in the cove. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E4 6a |
10 |
Horny Lil' Devil Top 50 S0. A brilliant, juggy traverse across the bottom of the wall. 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
11 |
Adrenochrome S1. A brilliant, sustained test-piece which involves some highly dynamic climbing. 5 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 8a |
12 |
Lord of Darkness S0. Start up Mark of the Beast to the big flake by its 3rd bolt, then traverse left across Adrenochrome to The Grotto ledge. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7c |
13 |
Mark of the Beast Top 50 S1. One of the best 7cs around. Good moves on large holds leading to a powerful crux at the lip. It is a popular route to... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7c |
14 |
Burn Hollywood Burn A desperate crux above the 3 pockets. After the crux, it is just a matter of how long you can hang on for. | 3 Stars Reachy Strong | 8a |
15 |
Lulworth Arms Treaty Direct and powerful. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b |
16 |
Freed from Desire A smart addition with a low crux (left then right past the second bolt) to gain the big undercut on Grimly Fiendish. Continue... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
17 |
Grimly Fiendish A gentle warm-up? - no, not really. | 1 Stars Strong | 7a |
18 |
Pump up the Beast 8a, S1. An awesome link-up of Window of Opportunity, Horny Lil' Devil and Mark of the Beast. | 3 Stars Pumpy | E7 6b |
19 |
Windowchrome 8a+, S1. Link Window of Opportunity to Adrenochrome. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E7 6c |
20 |
Stage Fright S1. Reverse the last move of Roof Predator and finish up Adrenochrome. | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b |
21 |
Centre Stage S1. Extend Stage Fright into Mark of the Beast. | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
22 |
Z-Cars 7b, S0. Follow Hornier than Thou past its crux before making a testing move to gain the large porthole on Horny Lil' Devil.... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E6 6b |
23 |
The Beast of Lulworth Start up Mark of the Beast to its niche. Swing right along a ramp to finish up Lulworth Arms Treaty. Worthwhile. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
24 |
The Beast Goes East S1. Climb Mark of the Beast to where it moves slightly right to a flake at half height. Make an undercut move up right to a... | 2 Stars | 7c |
25 |
Taming the Beast S1. Climb Mark of the Beast to a pocket at 3/4 height. Go up on edges until a move right gains a large porthole. Slap for the... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7b+ |
26 |
Beast Club Start up Lulworth Arms Treaty through its first crux then traverse left to reach jugs on Burn Hollywood Burn. Continue... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
27 |
Burning Arms Start up Lulworth Arms Treaty, clip its thread then move leftwards to join Burn Hollywood Burn. A good pitch. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
28 |
The Roof Predator Start up Grimly Fiendish and over to Lulworth Arms Treaty. A sloping ramp leads past Burn Hollywood Burn to a hard move into... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |
