Stair Hole East Cave

Sport
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Downhill
Restricted Access

An awesome venue packed with brilliant pitches on magnificent rock. Some of the routes are bolted but many have also been deep water soloed.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Captain Bastard Got There First
6a+, S0. From sea level, move right and climb a blunt arete.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
2
Despicable Terrier
7a, S0. The arete to the right of Captain Bastard Got There First.
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
3
Anarchy Stampede
7a, S0. A steep blind crux not far above the sea.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
4
Stagedivin'
S1. Short and steep. Take care leaving the ledge if soloing.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
7a+
5
I Love Eszter
6b, S0. At low tide, traverse across to the left corner of the arch. Graunch up the greasy chimney to join Horny Lil' Devil.
9 user comments
 E3 5c
6
Window of Opportunity
7b, S0. Follow I Love Eszter until a line of good holds joins Horny Lil' Devil from below.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
7
Hornier Than Thou
7b+, S0. Climbs the arch from right to left below Horny l'il Devil. Reverse Window of Opportunity to finish. Strenuous.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
8
Thieving Gypsy
15m. A very hard solo with some steep and blind moves. Starting on the beach, traverse to the boulder at the start of Window of...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
E5 6b
9
Sliding Down the Banister
6c, S0. A wild and dark route, starting as for Horny Lil' Devil, and going through the arch to the beach in the cove.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E4 6a
10
Horny Lil' Devil Top 50
S0. A brilliant, juggy traverse across the bottom of the wall.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
11
Adrenochrome
S1. A brilliant, sustained test-piece which involves some highly dynamic climbing.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
8a
12
Lord of Darkness
S0. Start up Mark of the Beast to the big flake by its 3rd bolt, then traverse left across Adrenochrome to The Grotto ledge.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
13
Mark of the Beast Top 50
S1. One of the best 7cs around. Good moves on large holds leading to a powerful crux at the lip. It is a popular route to...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
14
Burn Hollywood Burn
A desperate crux above the 3 pockets. After the crux, it is just a matter of how long you can hang on for.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
8a
15
Lulworth Arms Treaty
Direct and powerful.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b
16
Freed from Desire
A smart addition with a low crux (left then right past the second bolt) to gain the big undercut on Grimly Fiendish. Continue...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
17
Grimly Fiendish
A gentle warm-up? - no, not really.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a
18
Pump up the Beast
8a, S1. An awesome link-up of Window of Opportunity, Horny Lil' Devil and Mark of the Beast.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E7 6b
19
Windowchrome
8a+, S1. Link Window of Opportunity to Adrenochrome.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E7 6c
20
Stage Fright
S1. Reverse the last move of Roof Predator and finish up Adrenochrome.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b
21
Centre Stage
S1. Extend Stage Fright into Mark of the Beast.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
22
Z-Cars
7b, S0. Follow Hornier than Thou past its crux before making a testing move to gain the large porthole on Horny Lil' Devil....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E6 6b
23
The Beast of Lulworth
Start up Mark of the Beast to its niche. Swing right along a ramp to finish up Lulworth Arms Treaty. Worthwhile.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
24
The Beast Goes East
S1. Climb Mark of the Beast to where it moves slightly right to a flake at half height. Make an undercut move up right to a...
 
2 Stars
7c
25
Taming the Beast
S1. Climb Mark of the Beast to a pocket at 3/4 height. Go up on edges until a move right gains a large porthole. Slap for the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
26
Beast Club
Start up Lulworth Arms Treaty through its first crux then traverse left to reach jugs on Burn Hollywood Burn. Continue...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
27
Burning Arms
Start up Lulworth Arms Treaty, clip its thread then move leftwards to join Burn Hollywood Burn. A good pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
28
The Roof Predator
Start up Grimly Fiendish and over to Lulworth Arms Treaty. A sloping ramp leads past Burn Hollywood Burn to a hard move into...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For LULWORTH

    Adrenochrome
    "Same start as Horny Lil Devil" 01/May

    The Maypole
    "This climb is really comfortable till you enter the cave. Once you enter the cav..." 13/Sep

    Lower than Whale Shit
    "Did this today starting from the 'window' i.e. the reverse of the description gi..." 28/Aug

    Gates of Greyskull
    "Helpful block at start of Gates has disappeared into sea, makes first move sligh..." 07/Jun

    Horny Lil' Devil
    "I thought it was on the other side of the arch....whoops" 29/Jun top50

    Gates of Greyskull
    "There is a great alternitive start that can be done, "Skullthugery" 7c..." 28/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "On reflection (looked at this on Sunday), you would probably miss the ledges in ..." 03/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "S1 I think not. Very Serious over large ledges, loose rock and the upper slab w..." 02/Jun

    Cheddar Direct
    "Water below? Surely some mistake - a fall would very probably land you on proje..." 25/Sep

    Adrenochrome
    "Sorry Rich, i thought i had read somewhere that you had, my mistake. It was a go..." 14/Sep

    Adrenochrome
    "Hi there, I practiced it on a rope, but I didnt redpoint it. Rich." 14/Sep

    Wall of Feedback
    "The start is significantly harder than the 6b+ grade would suggest- with a move ..." 06/Sep

    Z-Cars
    "Got it 3rd go - definitely a 3 star route" 13/Aug

    The Maypole
    "did this climb at high tide... where are the foot holds inside the cave, under t..." 02/Jul

    Adrenochrome
    "I thought Rich redpointed it before he soloed it." 24/Jun

    Captain Bastard Got There First
    "This route climbs through the groove on pockets to left of Anarchy Stampede, sli..." 30/May

    Captain Bastard Got There First
    "Where does this route actually go then does it stay left of the arete and groove..." 29/May

    Sliding Down the Banister
    "Where is the E4 or 6a moves? Felt much easier than the Maypole to me." 22/May

    Animal Magnetism
    "Used to be a huge jug on the arete after the crux but some lanky northerner pull..." 25/Mar top50

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