Amphitheatre Roofs

Adjacent Areas
< Mojo-Pin and Il Pirate Area  |  None >

Sport
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

This roof playground gives similar routes to those at Stair Hole, only shorter and steeper. The rock is good, containing many pockets and flakes. The routes lie to the west of the MOD fence. The world famous Fossil Forest ledge is just beyond the fence.
Approach - Walk around the shingle beach of the cove and follow a steep track on the far side. Take the lower coast path, and after about 150m double back down the slope to a rock amphitheatre. From the far side of the amphitheatre, marked by a deep gully, scramble (Diff) or abseil down to just above the water-line. The starts are reached by scrambling along the base of the cliff which is easy at low tide but tricky at high tide (VDiff). It is also possible to abseil into the eastern end from a stake 40m from the MOD fence, or a bolt above the route Mirrorball. Leave gear well out of sight to avoid being rescued!
Tides - The starts can be reached at all tides, although it is more awkward at high tide. Keep away in rough seas.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Lemon Express
Powerful moves on big holds. Pre-clip the first bolt in the roof on the next route then step left 2m to start.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Banned
7b
2
Breathe the Pressure
Cross the central weakness. Full of variety.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Banned
Pumpy
7b+
3
Ramases Cubed
A powerful route that requires some inventive footwork to circumvent a blank section close to the lip of the roof.
 
Banned
7b+
4
Granny Lifts Car
Climb to a hole in the roof. Difficult moves out of this gain better holds, from where a fierce sequence reaches the lip of the...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Banned
7b+
5
Let Ya Bones Hang
A good introduction to the steep roofs. Start at a bolt-belay in the grooved rib. Climb the easy groove to the roof. Ape out...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Banned
Pumpy
7a
6
Rigor Mortise
Great fun on good holds (mostly). Climb to the roof, then move left and out through the roof direct past a small niche.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Banned
7a
7
A Storm in Heaven
A very hard route with an amazing inversion at the lip. Brilliant moves on a central line. Start up Rigor Mortise to the roof.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Banned
7c
8
Eye of the Storm
A wild and acrobatic 10m roof. From the niche on Storm in Heaven, break right to an intermittent finger rail. Reach a big...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Banned
7b+
9
Language of Nature
The obvious challenge of the diagonal crack in the right side of the roof finishing up Eye of the Storm. The bolt on the lip...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Banned
Pumpy
7b
10
Weld's Mother
An escape pitch if your elbows blow out. Follow the left-slanting rib between two bays.
 
Banned
4c
11
Monolith Monsters
A blank-looking line through the widest part of the ceiling. Worth seeking out.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Banned
7b+
12
Mirrorball
Very powerful and graded for those with a big reach. Start up Monolith Monsters. Step right under the roof and make hard moves...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Banned
7c
13
Shining Path
Almost at the end of the cliff before the MOD fence. For guerrillas only.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Banned
7a+