Pisa Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Phoenix Buttress  |  Lower Tier >

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No sun
45 mins
Uphill

No buttress descriptions included

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Short Crack
10m. The obviously named feature in the left-hand buttress.
 VS 4c
2
Satyr
10m. The shallow ramp on the central buttress provides a harrowing and delicate lead.
 
1 Stars
E4 5c
3
Solstice
8m. The crack and arete of the right-had buttress.
 HVS 5a
4
Some Product
8m. The thin crack in the north face of the fin leads out to the arete and a sprint for the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E4 6a
5
Bloodrush
16m. Climb the mighty bold frontal face of the fin by a harrowing series of 'monkey-up-a-stick' moves.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
E6 6b
6
Saucius Digitalis
12m. The thin crack in the south face is a bit of a finger wrecker. At its end improvise a way left to the arete and finish...
 
3 Stars
E4 6a
7
Nagger's Delight
12m. The steep groove gives good bridging to a tricky exit out left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
8
Naaden
12m. Jam the fine crack in the right wall of the groove until it ends then climb the wall leftwards with a crucial final move.
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
9
Yerth
14m. Climb through a roof and follow cracks left of the arete until they end. Traverse round the arete, make a tricky...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
10
Cistern Groove
12m. The green groove approached over broken ground may leave you flushed with success.
 VD
11
Pisa
16m. Climb cracks leftwards then swing right around the arete to a small ledge. Finish up the steep crack above to a tricky...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
12
Galileo
18m. A steep finger crack leads up leaning rock to join Pisa at its small ledge. A strenuous and sustained pitch though with...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
13
Pisa Direct
24m. From the lowest of the buttress climb the arete then the right slanting crack to just below 'the leaning tower'. Head...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
14
Pisa Super Direct Top 50
20m. Super Direct and super route. Follow the crack just left of the arete (as for the previous climb) to 'the leaning tower'...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
15
Stable Cracks
20m. The continuous crack-line up the right-hand side of the face gives a fine, well protected pitch with enough large gear. It...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
16
Plastic Saddle
18m. The narrow slab just to the right is climbed centrally.
 E1 5c
17
Typists' Chimney
16m. The chimney groove that bounds the right-hand side of the slab.
 D
18
Unicorn Cracks
16m. Climb the diagonal crack in the right wall of the groove to its end then the cracks u,and a groove p and right to the top.
 HS 4b
19
Trungel Crack
18m. Climb the crack just left of the arete passing a recess to a sloping shelf on the right. A continuation crack leads...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
20
The Big Wall
20m. A classic with hard climbing, good runners and some lo-o-ong reaches. Climb a crack to a flat roof then stretch left to a...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
E3 6a
21
Holm Moss
16m. Climb the cracks in the right-hand side of the face through bulge and up the final tricky wall.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
22
Gremlin Groove
14m. The long groove up the right-hand side of the smooth wall gives a good pitch. The crux is a stubborn overhang just below...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
23
Gremlin Wall
14m. Climb the steep wall to a ledge then trend left and pull through a small overhang with difficulty to reach another ledge....
 HVS 5a
24
Artifact
14m. Follow a thin crack out to the arete and climb this until a short traverse can be made back left under an overhang and...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
25
Ordinary Route
4m. The cliff face of the pinnacle is the easiest way up - and down.
 M
26
Obverse Route
6m. From the well scratched holds of the Ordinary Route trend right and climb the arete over a bulge. Quite beefy.
 VD
27
East Face
6m. Cross the east face diagonally and and climb the arete.
 S 4a
28
Pinnacle Face
8m. The valley face is climbed by a thin crack and then the left-hand arete.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
29
Pinnacle Crack
14m. The crack in the wall behind the pinnacle has awkward initial moves trend right up the crack to the arete and finish in an...
1 user comment
 HS 4b
30
Phantom
14m. A spooky eliminate up the left-hand side of the face right of the pinnacle. The crucial slab is protected by side runners...
 E3 6a
31
Nimrod
14m. Climb the flake and groove in tandem to a block. From a standing position on this climb discontinuous cracks to the top.
 S 4a
32
Free Fall
12m. Climb the middle of the wall to a leftwards finger traverse then swing boldly round the arete to jugs. Climb up until it...
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
33
Stag Party
14m. A riotous affair which staggers up the wide crack in the groove and finishes up the chimney on the right.
 VD
34
Ladies Day
14m. Climb a crack until to a chimney on the left the traverse right to a ledge below a hanging groove and finish steeply up...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
35
Ladies' Day Direct
14m. The arete direct with some long stretches to the ledge. Finish as for Ladies' Day.
 HVS 5a
36
Middleton Groove
14m. The crack just right leads to the platform. Follow the crack on the right to the final moves of Ladies' Day.
 HS 4b
37
Valhalla Crack
14m. A steep groove is jammed to a grassy platform, the continuation requires more jamming or some reckless laybacking.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
38
Crack and Chimney
12m. A traditional name for a traditional outing. Climb the crack in the wall to the right of the steep groove to the grassy...
 VD
39
Sampson
14m. The impressive arete is followed throughout and is highly technical. Transferring sides is necessary at two thirds height...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3 6b
40
Original Route
14m. The long groove gives a pleasant pitch.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
41
West Ridge
14m. The right-hand arete of the groove is another worthwhile outing.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
42
West Wall Route 1
14m. Follow thin cracks up the steep slab to easier ground then finish up the steep tower above.
 
1 Stars
S 4b
43
West Wall Route 2
14m. Climb to and through a recess to a substantial flake, which leads to the finish of the previous climb.
 VD
44
Finale
10m. The wall on the far right leads to a crack then trend right passing a second crack and a niche. FA. Geoffrey Piggott 1951
 S 4a
45
Encore
8m. The unremarkable shallow groove on the far right.
 S 4a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For SHINING CLOUGH

    Some Product
    "^what hell your problem knobend?" 08/Feb

    Main Wall Climb
    "More fun than it looks, and surely the only polished foothold on the whole crag!..." 30/Sep

    East Rib
    "Classic,never gets as hard as you think, good gear." 20/Jul top50

    Gremlin Groove
    "Shame its not longer." 26/May

    Galileo
    "Agreed - its a toughy, and the cracks are a lot rougher inside than your average..." 26/Apr

    The Egg Bowl
    "This route is extremely hard, never a Vdiff" 21/Sep

    Galileo
    "Pretty tough at E1, especially for the skinny fingered folk. Way harder than any..." 25/Aug

    The Rainbow
    "A lovely route, smiles all the way up" 19/Mar

    Monkey Puzzle
    "From the ground the second crack didn't look as steep as the first... until I en..." 08/Aug

    Galileo
    "It would be churlish to argue with the calls of 5c, not least because it is toug..." 06/Aug

    Nagger's Delight
    "Green." 28/Jul

    Pisa Super Direct
    "Wonderful climbing. I can't jam but still got a couple of fists in there, so pro..." 03/Jul top50

    Pisa Super Direct
    "We did the "thin cracks in the slab start" which others have described..." 03/Jul top50

    The Big Wall
    "Did the route last wekend and most of the route, especially the top was very dir..." 15/Jun

    Galileo
    "Nice route this, more taxing than I expected. High in the grade I would say. Dem..." 23/Jul

    Pisa Direct
    "This is not a 4c problem, it may be a VS as protection is good but the overall d..." 21/Jun

    Pisa Super Direct
    "Thought it was technically quite hard starting up the thin crack to the right of..." 13/Jun top50

    Galileo
    "Definitely value for money and much harder than it looks from the ground. Gear i..." 12/Jun

    The Big Wall
    "The friend 4 placement is off route to the left in a grassy niche - it needs ext..." 06/Sep

    Pisa Super Direct
    "Easy for the grade. It's possible to do it entirely without jamming, but some li..." 10/Aug top50

    Holm Moss
    "I seconded Steve C (previous comment) and failed to follow the crux on a top rop..." 20/Jun

    Holm Moss
    "This used to be HVS? - it's still a sandbag at E1! Good moves, but crux is nails..." 14/Jun

    Pisa Super Direct
    "AMAZING!! **** a technical boulder problem leads to a perfect hand crack a coupl..." 10/Jun top50

    Pinnacle Face
    "The gear in the thin crack isn't going to do you much good when you get to the h..." 17/May

    Pinnacle Face
    "Unprotected? I got 3 nuts in that thin crack - and then backed off it." 16/May

    The Big Wall
    "Friend 4 my arse! I dragged the bloody thing all the way up the route ( and very..." 04/Sep

    Sampson
    "currently dirtier than your mother." 16/Aug

    Phoenix Climb
    "Must be a contender for the best VS on grit" 11/Aug top50

    Pinnacle Face
    "Green and unprotected." 11/Aug

    Galileo
    "The upper crack is hard. I think it's worth 5C" 10/Aug

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