Tower Face

Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
12 mins
Uphill
Windy

The tallest wall on the cliff with routes to match. Tower Face Direct and Flight of Ideas are great climbs and all the other routes described here are worth doing.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tower Crack
A proper full-on jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull on to the ledge is tricky....
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
2
Tower Chimney
The soaring chimney is usually avoided! The bell-shaped upper section is the crux. Good gear is available in the depths of the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
E1
3
Common Misconception
The end rib of the wall. Good gear in the half height break, then an airy finish to the top. Very spicy.
 
1 Stars
E6
4
Flight of Ideas
A stunning route up the soaring arete, desperate though with good runners below the upper crux section. Climb past a curving...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6
5
Indian Summer
Another desperate climb. Follow Flight of Ideas to the curving overlap, then use poor holds to reach the next break. Continue...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
6
Tower Face Direct
An excellent route which is mild but bold. Climb the centre of the face (creaky) to a rest out left. An odd sideways nut...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2
7
Tower Face
Climb the Direct to good nuts then traverse right at one of two levels to a crusty flake just before the arete. Climb to the...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
HVS
8
Tower Face Indirect
Wandering but with a good finale. Climb the easy chimney then step out left and make a short traverse to reach the base of the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
9
Tower Face Gully/Terrace Gully
The longest (straight up) route on Stanage and best done in two pitches. Climb the gully to ledges to a stance and belay, then...
 VD
10
Stretcher Case
Climb the crack in the left-hand wall to its top, then swing right past the arete before making a mighty stretch for the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2
11
Scuppered
From the left-hand end of the ledge, swing along the break and climb the arete on its right-hand side by difficult laybacking.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
12
Invisible Maniac
A direct line up the centre of the wall to the crux of Nuke the Midges, with an arduous cheek-scouring mantelshelf.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
13
Nuke the Midges
Start up ledges on the right then head left for 5m (a dangle for the short) to a jug. A crux mantel on this may reach the top.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
14
Miserable Miracle
A good extension to any of the Tower Face routes. The tiny but intense left-hand arete of the face feels bold and very exposed....
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2
15
Four Star, E10, 7b
The wall left of centre is not quite as good or as hard it claims.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E5
16
Nihilistic Narl
The centre of the wall is the best of this bunch.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
f7A+
17
The Descrittalizer
Right of centre.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E5
18
Scrittalacious
The final line on the right.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E4
19
The Chute
The wide crack just right is an arduous affair.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HS
20
Scapa Flow
From the left-hand end of the overhang, climb rightwards on pebbles towards the centre of the wall where the gripping and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
21
Dreadnought
The right-hand line is even harder. With runners in Scapa Flow cross the bulges, pebble pull, then dyno for the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Dyno
E7
22
The Mangler
The fearsome wide crack is traditionally climbed by squirming, though those with huge cams might try laybacking.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
E1
23
Crescent
The curving crack gives decent and well protected crux moves leading to easier bulges above.
 
Technical
VS
24
Foetus on the Eiger
The bulging wall with some side-runners for protection.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E1