Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 minsWindy
The tallest wall on the cliff with routes to match. Tower Face Direct and Flight of Ideas are great climbs and all the other routes described here are worth doing. The shorter walls up on the right and left also have some unsung gems if you want a bit of privacy. Guidebook page 140.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Fina 16m. Climb the crack in the left edge of the buttress then hand traverse the lowest break. Climb the tricky blunt arete. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded | HVS 5b |
2 |
Four Star 14m. The right arete is climbed on its left-hand side by fiercely-technical laybacking above an indifferent landing. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 6b |
3 |
Centaur 8m. From the cave battle into the narrowing crack and heave on the creaky flake. An exhausting and torrid thrash for most. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Graunchy | E1 5c |
4 |
Additive Chimney 6m. The short wide chimney is hard to enter, hard to make progress on and not well protected. Graded VDiff for years. | HS 4b | |
5 |
Cinturato 14m. From the tip of the slab make a hard move to start and then go. Delicate and unprotected - it feels like an E2! 9 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
6 |
Grace and Danger 14m. The scooped wall under Cinturato requires stacks of commitment allied to some technical ability, though fortunately there... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6c |
7 |
Esso Extra 12m. From a recess in the left side of the gully, swing left and pull into a gritty alcove with difficulty. Finish up the... | 1 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | E1 5b |
8 |
Tower Gully 14m. The long corner system tucked in the right side of the gully - an imposing pitch. Bridge the initial groove to ledges... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4b |
9 |
Tower Crack 24m. A cracking jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull onto the ledge is tricky. Up... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
10 |
Tower Chimney 20m. The soaring chimney is usually avoided! The bell-shaped upper section is the crux, good gear is available in the depths of... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Graunchy | E1 5b |
11 |
Flight of Ideas 22m. A stunning route up the soaring arete, desperate though with good runners below the upper crux section. Climb past a... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E7 6c |
12 |
Indian Summer 22m. Another fine climb. Follow Flight of Ideas to the curving overlap, then use poor holds to reach the next break. Continue... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6c |
13 |
Tower Face Direct 22m. An excellent route which is mild but bold. Climb the centre of the face (creaky) to a rest out left. A side-ways nut... 15 user comments | 3 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E2 5b |
14 |
Tower Face 26m. Climb the Direct to good nuts then traverse right at one of two levels to a crusty flake just before the arete; the crux.... 11 user comments | 2 Stars Loose | HVS 5a |
15 |
Tower Face Indirect 24m. Interesting with a good finale. Climb the easy chimney on the right then step out to the left and then make a short... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
16 |
Stretcher Case 10m. Climb the crack in the left-hand wall to its top then swing right passing the arete and make a mighty stretch for the top. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | E2 5c |
17 |
Scuppered 10m. From the left-hand end of the ledge below the face, swing along the break and climb the technical arete on its right-hand... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
18 |
Invisible Maniac 8m. A direct line up the centre of the wall to the crux of Nuke the Midges, with an ardous cheek-scouring mantelshelf. | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6b |
19 |
Nuke the Midges 10m. Start up ledges then head left for 5m (a dangle for the short) to a jug. A hard mantel on this (crux) may reach the top. 7 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | E1 5b |
20 |
Miserable Miracle 6m. A good extension to any of the Tower Face routes. The tiny but intense left-hand arete of the face feels bold and very... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E2 5b |
21 |
Scapa Flow 10m. From the left-hand end of the overhang climb rightwards on pebbles towards the centre of the wall where the gripping and... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6c |
22 |
Dreadnought 10m. The right-hand line is even harder. With runners in Scapa Flow cross the bulges, pebble pull, then dyno for the top. | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E7 7a |
23 |
Mangler 10m. The fearsome wide crack is traditionally climbed by squirming, though those with huge cams might try laybacking. | Graunchy | E1 5c |
24 |
Crescent 10m. The curving crack gives pleasant and well protected moves leading to easier bulges above | VS 5a | |
