Tower Face

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

The tallest wall on the cliff with routes to match. Tower Face Direct and Flight of Ideas are great climbs and all the other routes described here are worth doing. The shorter walls up on the right and left also have some unsung gems if you want a bit of privacy.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tower Crack
A proper full-on jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull on to the ledge is tricky....
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
2
Tower Chimney
The soaring chimney is usually avoided! The bell-shaped upper section is the crux. Good gear is available in the depths of the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
E1 5b
3
Flight of Ideas
A stunning route up the soaring arete, desperate though with good runners below the upper crux section. Climb past a curving...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6
4
Indian Summer
Another desperate climb. Follow Flight of Ideas to the curving overlap, then use poor holds to reach the next break. Continue...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
5
Tower Face Direct
An excellent route which is mild but bold. Climb the centre of the face (creaky) to a rest out left. An odd side-ways nut...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
6
Tower Face
Climb the Direct to good nuts then traverse right at one of two levels to a crusty flake just before the arete. Climb to the...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
HVS 5a
7
Tower Face Indirect
Wandering but with a good finale. Climb the easy chimney then step out left and then make a short traverse to reach the base of...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
8
Tower Face Gully/Terrace Gully
The longest (straight up) route on Stanage and best done in two pitches. Climb the gully to ledges to a stance and belay, then...
 VD
9
Stretcher Case
Climb the crack in the left-hand wall to its top then swing right past the arete before making a mighty stretch for the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E2 5c
10
Scuppered
From the left-hand end of the ledge, swing along the break and climb the arete on its right-hand side by difficult laybacking.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
11
Invisible Maniac
A direct line up the centre of the wall to the crux of Nuke the Midges, with an arduous cheek-scouring mantelshelf.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6b
12
Nuke the Midges
Start up ledges on the right then head left for 5m (a dangle for the short) to a jug. A crux mantel on this may reach the top.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
13
Miserable Miracle
A good extension to any of the Tower Face routes. The tiny but intense left-hand arete of the face feels bold and very exposed....
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5b
14
Four Star, E10, 7b
The wall left of centre is not as good or hard as it claims.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6c
15
Nihilistic Narl
The best of the bunch.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
16
The Descrittalizer
Right of centre.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6b
17
Scrittalacious
The final line on the right.
 
Technical
E4 6a
18
The Chute
The wide crack just right is an arduous affair.
 
Graunchy
HS 4b
19
Scapa Flow
From the left-hand end of the overhang, climb rightwards on pebbles towards the centre of the wall where the gripping and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
20
Dreadnought
The right-hand line is even harder. With runners in Scapa Flow cross the bulges, pebble pull, then dyno for the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 7a
21
The Mangler
The fearsome wide crack is traditionally climbed by squirming, though those with huge cams might try laybacking.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
E1 5c
22
Crescent
The curving crack gives decent and well protected crux moves leading to easier bulges above.
 
Technical
Crimpy
VS 5a
23
Foetus on the Eiger
The bulging wall with some side-runners for protection.
 
Technical
E1 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Unfamiliar
    "Changed from E8 6c *** to E7 6c ***, no votes" 20/Feb

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

    Outlook Buttress
    "Solid E1." 16/Oct

    Nightmare Slab
    "Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in ot..." 10/Sep

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