Tower Face Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

The tallest wall on the cliff with routes to match. Tower Face Direct and Flight of Ideas are great climbs and all the other routes described here are worth doing. The shorter walls up on the right and left also have some unsung gems if you want a bit of privacy.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Fina
16m. Climb the crack in the left edge of the buttress then hand traverse the lowest break. Climb the tricky blunt arete.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5b
2
Four Star
14m. The right arete is climbed on its left-hand side by fiercely-technical laybacking above an indifferent landing.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6b
3
Centaur
8m. From the cave battle into the narrowing crack and heave on the creaky flake. An exhausting and torrid thrash for most.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
E1 5c
4
Additive Chimney
6m. The short wide chimney is hard to enter, hard to make progress on and not well protected. Graded VDiff for years.
 HS 4b
5
Cinturato
14m. From the tip of the slab make a hard move to start and then go. Delicate and unprotected - it feels like an E2!
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
6
Grace and Danger
14m. The scooped wall under Cinturato requires stacks of commitment allied to some technical ability, though fortunately there...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
7
Esso Extra
12m. From a recess in the left side of the gully, swing left and pull into a gritty alcove with difficulty. Finish up the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E1 5b
8
Tower Gully
14m. The long corner system tucked in the right side of the gully - an imposing pitch. Bridge the initial groove to ledges...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
9
Tower Crack
24m. A cracking jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull onto the ledge is tricky. Up...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
10
Tower Chimney
20m. The soaring chimney is usually avoided! The bell-shaped upper section is the crux, good gear is available in the depths of...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
E1 5b
11
Flight of Ideas
22m. A stunning route up the soaring arete, desperate though with good runners below the upper crux section. Climb past a...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
12
Indian Summer
22m. Another fine climb. Follow Flight of Ideas to the curving overlap, then use poor holds to reach the next break. Continue...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
13
Tower Face Direct
22m. An excellent route which is mild but bold. Climb the centre of the face (creaky) to a rest out left. A side-ways nut...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
14
Tower Face
26m. Climb the Direct to good nuts then traverse right at one of two levels to a crusty flake just before the arete; the crux....
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
HVS 5a
15
Tower Face Indirect
24m. Interesting with a good finale. Climb the easy chimney on the right then step out to the left and then make a short...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
16
Stretcher Case
10m. Climb the crack in the left-hand wall to its top then swing right passing the arete and make a mighty stretch for the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E2 5c
17
Scuppered
10m. From the left-hand end of the ledge below the face, swing along the break and climb the technical arete on its right-hand...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
18
Invisible Maniac
8m. A direct line up the centre of the wall to the crux of Nuke the Midges, with an ardous cheek-scouring mantelshelf.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6b
19
Nuke the Midges
10m. Start up ledges then head left for 5m (a dangle for the short) to a jug. A hard mantel on this (crux) may reach the top.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
20
Miserable Miracle
6m. A good extension to any of the Tower Face routes. The tiny but intense left-hand arete of the face feels bold and very...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5b
21
Scapa Flow
10m. From the left-hand end of the overhang climb rightwards on pebbles towards the centre of the wall where the gripping and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
22
Dreadnought
10m. The right-hand line is even harder. With runners in Scapa Flow cross the bulges, pebble pull, then dyno for the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 7a
23
Mangler
10m. The fearsome wide crack is traditionally climbed by squirming, though those with huge cams might try laybacking.
 
Graunchy
E1 5c
24
Crescent
10m. The curving crack gives pleasant and well protected moves leading to easier bulges above
 VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

    Outlook Buttress
    "Solid E1." 16/Oct

    Nightmare Slab
    "Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in ot..." 10/Sep

    Crossover
    "Worthwhile route with varied climbing. The bold slab isn't too hard and good cam..." 12/Jul

    Cinturato
    "This is one of those routes where, if you're cruising at E3, it'll seem like a p..." 19/Jun

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