Papacy Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Evening sun
12 mins
Uphill

A fine buttress containing many of the best routes at Harpur Hill. It has some striking corners, and a big open groove separating the two walls. The quality sport routes are complemented well by a number of good trad lines, so bring your wires and cams. Guidebook page 108.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Angleterre
The shallow groove on the left is normally a bit grubby.
 5a
2
This England
A short, technical wall and blunt arete, starting up the slope.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
3
Pleasant Valley Sunday
The short, scooped crack is difficult to enter, then leads left to the lower-off on This England.
 E1 5b
4
Upthrutch
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
5
Gritarete
A steep start leads to some unusual rounded holds above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
7a
6
Snake Eyes
A fine, thin crack twists to the lower-off on Gritarete.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E3 5c
7
Strangled at Birth
Start up the short arete and climb the thin wall above.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
8
Sincerely Yours
Nice climbing up the cracks and the harder wall above.
 
1 Stars
6b
9
I'm in the Sin Bin
More worthwhile climbing up the cracks that lead to a break.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a
10
Sin City
Climb the groove then move right around a roof onto the ramp of Seven Deadly Sins. Move up left (loose block) then climb direct...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E1 5b
11
Freedom of Choice
Climb towards the corner and pull out left onto stepped ledge, follow up to obvious wide crack onto ledge. Finish direct.
 VS 4c
12
The Seven Deadly Sins
A fine climb which follows an absorbing line up the buttress. Climb the short corner, then pull left onto a slab. Trend...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
13
Coral Seas Top 50
A superb route with a crux high on the wall. Easier than it appears. Climb the face right of the corner, then pull out onto the...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
6a
14
Avarice Allsorts
Start as for Coral Seas, but continue to the flat roof, then pull over on big positive holds to the next break. One more hard...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6c+
15
Lust
The central gully leads through a tricky overhang and into the open funnel above. A good line, but rarely climbed.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
16
Ask Mr. T. for Tea
Climb just right of the big crack of Lust to a tricky move into Rocky Variations. Up left to cross the crack and finish up the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
17
Rocky Variations
A great climb with some testing moves through the hanging groove. From a block, step right onto the wall and climb to the...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
18
Apollo Creed
A fine and devious companion to Rocky Variations up the rock to its right. Start as for Rocky Variations, but trend rightwards...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
6b
19
The Seven Deadly Virtues
A fine trad-route which follows the best line on the buttress. Start below the left-facing groove, and climb a crack up into...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
20
Luddite Thought Police
A direct finish to Seven Deadly Virtues, crossing the roof and powering up the steep crack above.
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
21
Penal Servitude
Climb the crack on the right to reach the blunt arete forming the right-hand edge of the groove of Seven Deadly Virtues. Finish...
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
22
Full Frontal
An eliminate up the front of the pillar is more independent than it looks. Make an awkward move in from the right (starting...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
23
El Camino Real
The compelling crack and groove to the right of the pillar give a fine sustained jamming pitch eventually joining and finishing...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
24
Power of Soul
Climb the thin crack, which has an undercut start. Good climbing, but it is over all too quickly.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
25
Dementia Normale
The cracks and groove lead to a lower-off.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a
26
The Last Straw
Start from blocks up right of the main wall. Climb past three close bolts, then easier moves lead up the edge above.
1 user comment
 6b
27
Figure of Law
Up the slope to the right of the buttress. Climb the pillar past four bolts by some technical moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
28
I Am the Law
The thin cracks soon ease, if you can do the start.
 
1 Stars
6b+
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  • Latest Comments

    For HARPUR HILL

    The Seven Deadly Sins
    "The line and description has changed with the recent update but the actual lines..." 05/Sep

    Swain's World
    "Good climbing but rather sparsely bolted for comfort - deserves a flutter symbol..." 25/Jul

    A Trip on the Dark Side
    "The lower wall has very good climbing but moving left and leaving the 2nd bolt g..." 21/Jul

    Riding Shogun
    "Steady to steep pulls through bulge and tricky finale." 14/Jul

    Centreville
    "Goodness knows where this is supposed to go! The route to the immediate right of..." 11/Jul

    Apollo Creed
    "Great moves & rock. Starting up Rocky Variations for two bolts is worthwhile..." 28/Jul

    Mine Anarchy
    "Definitely 6a - tricky!" 28/Jun

    Slowly, Slowly Catch a Monkey
    "Barely worth a star in its current rather dirty state. Unfortunately that's the ..." 20/Jun

    People Will Talk
    "Much harder than 5, and dangerously bolted - the crux is reaching the third bolt..." 14/May

    Expecting
    "Easy, a soft touch at F5?" 01/Oct

    Senile Delinquents
    "Again very spaced gear. Would not like to be onsighting this at my limit." 21/Aug

    Sumo
    "Hard crux on quite sharp holds, bit loose and snappy for any stars." 05/May

    Saweno Gancho
    "Loose rock and contrived line." 25/Apr

    Over the Hill
    "Brilliant route - never hard but sustained." 24/Apr

    Tiny Tots
    "Gary's website gives this route 5. The grade of 6a here is much more like it (an..." 21/Apr

    Rocky Variations
    "Three stars. Continued sustained technical climbing with no single move signifi..." 16/Jun

    Coral Seas
    "I pulled a massive chunk off. i think it was most of the big bulge, whilst i was..." 29/Sep top50

    Senile Delinquents
    "Quite a fun route, even if I did break my ankle...." 10/Sep

    The Seven Deadly Sins
    "A fine adventure on generally good interesting rock (although beware a couple of..." 31/Aug

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