Adjacent Areas
< Perched Block Buttress | Prophecy Area >
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill
12 minsWindy
A fine buttress containing many of the best routes at Harpur Hill. It has some striking corners, and a big open groove separating the two walls. The quality sport routes are complemented well by a number of good trad lines, so bring your wires and cams. Guidebook page 108.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Angleterre The shallow groove on the left is normally a bit grubby. | 5 | |
2 |
This England A short, technical wall and blunt arete, starting up the slope. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
3 |
Pleasant Valley Sunday The short, scooped crack is difficult to enter, then leads left to the lower-off on This England. | E1 5b | |
4 |
Upthrutch | 1 Stars Graunchy | VS 4c |
5 |
Gritarete A steep start leads to some unusual rounded holds above. | 1 Stars Technical Rounded | 7a |
6 |
Snake Eyes A fine, thin crack twists to the lower-off on Gritarete. | 1 Stars Crimpy | E3 5c |
7 |
Strangled at Birth Start up the short arete and climb the thin wall above. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
8 |
Sincerely Yours Nice climbing up the cracks and the harder wall above. | 1 Stars | 6b |
9 |
I'm in the Sin Bin More worthwhile climbing up the cracks that lead to a break. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6a |
10 |
Sin City Climb the groove then move right around a roof onto the ramp of Seven Deadly Sins. Move up left (loose block) then climb direct... | 1 Stars Pumpy Loose | E1 5b |
11 |
Freedom of Choice Climb towards the corner and pull out left onto stepped ledge, follow up to obvious wide crack onto ledge. Finish direct. | VS 4c | |
12 |
The Seven Deadly Sins A fine climb which follows an absorbing line up the buttress. Climb the short corner, then pull left onto a slab. Trend... 3 user comments | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
13 |
Coral Seas Top 50 A superb route with a crux high on the wall. Easier than it appears. Climb the face right of the corner, then pull out onto the... 12 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy | 6a |
14 |
Avarice Allsorts Start as for Coral Seas, but continue to the flat roof, then pull over on big positive holds to the next break. One more hard... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | 6c+ |
15 |
Lust The central gully leads through a tricky overhang and into the open funnel above. A good line, but rarely climbed. | 1 Stars Graunchy | VS 4c |
16 |
Ask Mr. T. for Tea Climb just right of the big crack of Lust to a tricky move into Rocky Variations. Up left to cross the crack and finish up the... | 1 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
17 |
Rocky Variations A great climb with some testing moves through the hanging groove. From a block, step right onto the wall and climb to the... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | 6b |
18 |
Apollo Creed A fine and devious companion to Rocky Variations up the rock to its right. Start as for Rocky Variations, but trend rightwards... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy | 6b |
19 |
The Seven Deadly Virtues A fine trad-route which follows the best line on the buttress. Start below the left-facing groove, and climb a crack up into... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
20 |
Luddite Thought Police A direct finish to Seven Deadly Virtues, crossing the roof and powering up the steep crack above. | 1 Stars | E3 6a |
21 |
Penal Servitude Climb the crack on the right to reach the blunt arete forming the right-hand edge of the groove of Seven Deadly Virtues. Finish... | 1 Stars | E2 5b |
22 |
Full Frontal An eliminate up the front of the pillar is more independent than it looks. Make an awkward move in from the right (starting... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
23 |
El Camino Real The compelling crack and groove to the right of the pillar give a fine sustained jamming pitch eventually joining and finishing... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
24 |
Power of Soul Climb the thin crack, which has an undercut start. Good climbing, but it is over all too quickly. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
25 |
Dementia Normale The cracks and groove lead to a lower-off. 7 user comments | 1 Stars | 6a |
26 |
The Last Straw Start from blocks up right of the main wall. Climb past three close bolts, then easier moves lead up the edge above. 1 user comment | 6b | |
27 |
Figure of Law Up the slope to the right of the buttress. Climb the pillar past four bolts by some technical moves. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
28 |
I Am the Law The thin cracks soon ease, if you can do the start. | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
