Adjacent Areas
< Papacy Buttress | The Racetrack Playa Area >
The most extensive section of the upper walls consists of a series of vertical faces, steep cracks and blocky buttresses. There are plenty of good lines here, and some patches of poor rock. Guidebook page 112.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Danny Cool The narrow rib has some decent moves. | 5 | |
2 |
Cool Danny Pleasant face climbing passing a thin roof early on. | 6b | |
3 |
Screaming Wheels The attractive arete has a hard move at mid-height and a pumpy clip. Sadly it is easier to slink off to either side of the... | 1 Stars | 6b |
4 |
Swain's World The right side of the long arete keeps on coming. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
5 |
No Man's Land To the right of the arete, take the left-hand line of bolts. | 6b+ | |
6 |
The Exclusion Zone As for No Man's Land, but follow the right-hand line. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
7 |
The Iron Curtain The rib and shallow groove give a pleasant pitch. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
8 |
Mouse Hunt Start in a corner and climb the wall to a break right of a grassy ledge. The upper wall passing an overlap feels run-out. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | 6c |
9 |
Slowly, Slowly Catch a Monkey The crack and narrow pillar give a decent route. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
10 |
Thing Thang The left-hand of two shorter routes up a scoop. | Technical | 7a |
11 |
Thang Thing The right-hand line, the crack on the right is taboo. | Technical | 7a |
12 |
Slab de Lune The rib on the recessed grassy slab. 2 user comments | 6a | |
13 |
Master of a Lune A new route up the narrow face to the right. | Technical Crimpy | 6b |
14 |
Stack of Stones Start by using the flake on the left otherwise it is 6b. A new bolt has lowered the grip factor near the top. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
15 |
Bag of Bones A fine delicate rib left of the hammer-head block on excellent rock. The first bolt is tricky to reach if the grass is wet. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6a+ |
16 |
Plate of Scones Scratch up the thin face just right of the hammer-head block and continue up a groove and crack. | 6b+ | |
17 |
Sara Laughs The face above the blocks has a hard central section. | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
18 |
Tenth Heaven A tricky lower section leads to the easier crack. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b |
19 |
Calci-Mauve Start up the pillar to the break. The flowstone wall above has good moves. The right-hand finish is Glas Double, 6c+. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | 6b |
20 |
Flaky Pastry An oddity, a decent mid-grade trad route up the big groove. There is a lower-off, thus removing the need to top-out. | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
21 |
Over the Hill An excellent sustained route up the cracks. Hard from the word go without ever being desperate and with a fine finish over the... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
22 |
Nostalgia The long crack is a superb trad route with a new lower-off. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
23 |
The Omen Another of those long and worthwhile crack-systems. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
24 |
Yogi Bare A tricky wall climb. Finish left of the bolts. Can be dirty. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
25 |
Four Telling Tales The crack on the left-hand side of the arete is absorbing and technical with a tricky finish. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
26 |
The Talisman The right-hand side of the arete is awkward and less satisfying than Four Telling Tales. Drilled pegs at the start. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
27 |
Bleingassen The long open groove and blocky rib give a worthwhile pitch. | 1 Stars | 6c |
28 |
The Oracle The fierce short wall to a roof is hard to onsight. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
29 |
The Prophecy Worthwhile and popular though a bit of an eliminate. Climb to the roof and make long moves right past the bulge. The wall leads... | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 7a |
30 |
Supernatural Another long one and with plenty of good climbing too. Climb the long sustained crack to a high crux. | 2 Stars | 6a |
31 |
The Indian Cottage Short and sharp climbing past the triangular roof. | 7a | |
32 |
What a Load of Roti Climb the crack to access the long soaring rib. | 1 Stars | 6a |
33 |
Aloo Gobi A tough route up the technical wall above the roof. | Technical Crimpy | 6c |
34 |
Z Victor 1 Climb the groove to the cave, then the left wall. Exit to the right. | Graunchy Loose | HVS 5a |
35 |
Pappadum Groove The groove to the ledge below the cave. Exit rightwards. | 6a | |
36 |
Quartz Initial The left-hand side of the short arete to the big ledge. | 6b+ | |
37 |
Duma Key Climb the hand-crack in the corner above the huge block then follow the long finger-crack. Staple bolts. | 1 Stars Crimpy Loose | 6a |
38 |
Viagra Falls The long technical wall leading to a hard roof. Avoiding the corner below the roof is tricky. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
39 |
Different Seasons The crack in the arete leads to a mid-height lower-off.If the first bolt is too high, start up the next route or use a... 4 user comments | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
40 |
Apt Pupil The steep wall right of the crack. The roof gives a hard finish. | 1 Stars Strong | 6c |
41 |
In the Gravy A poor start over blocks, and up a groove, leads to better climbing on the wall above the ledges. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6a |
42 |
From Cradle to Grave The wall on the left-hand side of the gully. Start up the steep slope and avoid left-hand variants. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6c |
43 |
Inception The prominent groove, a limestone Green Gut maybe? | HS 4b | |
44 |
Calcite Claws The short, hanging arete has some tricky moves on interesting rock. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
45 |
So Veneer Climb the wall just right of the arete. 2 user comments | Technical | 6b |
46 |
The End Very poor, the short wall has a hard start leading past a break to a ledge and lower-off. | 6a | |