Prophecy Area

Sport
Early morning sun
12 mins
Uphill

The most extensive section of the upper walls consists of a series of vertical faces, steep cracks and blocky buttresses. There are plenty of good lines here, and some patches of poor rock.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Danny Cool
The narrow rib has some decent moves.
 5a
2
Cool Danny
Pleasant face climbing passing a thin roof early on.
 6b
3
Screaming Wheels
The attractive arete has a hard move at mid-height and a pumpy clip. Sadly it is easier to slink off to either side of the...
 
1 Stars
6b
4
Swain's World
The right side of the long arete keeps on coming.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
5
No Man's Land
To the right of the arete, take the left-hand line of bolts.
 6b+
6
The Exclusion Zone
As for No Man's Land, but follow the right-hand line.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
7
The Iron Curtain
The rib and shallow groove give a pleasant pitch.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a+
8
Mouse Hunt
Start in a corner and climb the wall to a break right of a grassy ledge. The upper wall passing an overlap feels run-out.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
6c
9
Slowly, Slowly Catch a Monkey
The crack and narrow pillar give a decent route.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a+
10
Thing Thang
The left-hand of two shorter routes up a scoop.
 
Technical
7a
11
Thang Thing
The right-hand line, the crack on the right is taboo.
 
Technical
7a
12
Slab de Lune
The rib on the recessed grassy slab.
2 user comments
 6a
13
Master of a Lune
A new route up the narrow face to the right.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6b
14
Stack of Stones
Start by using the flake on the left otherwise it is 6b. A new bolt has lowered the grip factor near the top.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a+
15
Bag of Bones
A fine delicate rib left of the hammer-head block on excellent rock. The first bolt is tricky to reach if the grass is wet.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
16
Plate of Scones
Scratch up the thin face just right of the hammer-head block and continue up a groove and crack.
 6b+
17
Sara Laughs
The face above the blocks has a hard central section.
 
1 Stars
6b+
18
Tenth Heaven
A tricky lower section leads to the easier crack.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
19
Calci-Mauve
Start up the pillar to the break. The flowstone wall above has good moves. The right-hand finish is Glas Double, 6c+.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6b
20
Flaky Pastry
An oddity, a decent mid-grade trad route up the big groove. There is a lower-off, thus removing the need to top-out.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
21
Over the Hill
An excellent sustained route up the cracks. Hard from the word go without ever being desperate and with a fine finish over the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
22
Nostalgia
The long crack is a superb trad route with a new lower-off.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4
23
The Omen
Another of those long and worthwhile crack-systems.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
24
Yogi Bare
A tricky wall climb. Finish left of the bolts. Can be dirty.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
25
Four Telling Tales
The crack on the left-hand side of the arete is absorbing and technical with a tricky finish.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
26
The Talisman
The right-hand side of the arete is awkward and less satisfying than Four Telling Tales. Drilled pegs at the start.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
27
Bleingassen
The long open groove and blocky rib give a worthwhile pitch.
 
1 Stars
6c
28
The Oracle
The fierce short wall to a roof is hard to onsight.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
29
The Prophecy
Worthwhile and popular though a bit of an eliminate. Climb to the roof and make long moves right past the bulge. The wall leads...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7a
30
Supernatural
Another long one and with plenty of good climbing too. Climb the long sustained crack to a high crux.
 
2 Stars
6a
31
The Indian Cottage
Short and sharp climbing past the triangular roof.
 7a
32
What a Load of Roti
Climb the crack to access the long soaring rib.
 
1 Stars
6a
33
Aloo Gobi
A tough route up the technical wall above the roof.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c
34
Z Victor 1
Climb the groove to the cave, then the left wall. Exit to the right.
 
Graunchy
Loose
HVS
35
Pappadum Groove
The groove to the ledge below the cave. Exit rightwards.
 6a
36
Quartz Initial
The left-hand side of the short arete to the big ledge.
 6b+
37
Duma Key
Climb the hand-crack in the corner above the huge block then follow the long finger-crack. Staple bolts.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Loose
6a
38
Viagra Falls
The long technical wall leading to a hard roof. Avoiding the corner below the roof is tricky.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
39
Different Seasons
The crack in the arete leads to a mid-height lower-off.If the first bolt is too high, start up the next route or use a...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a+
40
Apt Pupil
The steep wall right of the crack. The roof gives a hard finish.
 
1 Stars
Strong
6c
41
In the Gravy
A poor start over blocks, and up a groove, leads to better climbing on the wall above the ledges.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
42
From Cradle to Grave
The wall on the left-hand side of the gully. Start up the steep slope and avoid left-hand variants.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
43
Inception
The prominent groove, a limestone Green Gut maybe?
 HS
44
Calcite Claws
The short, hanging arete has some tricky moves on interesting rock.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
45
So Veneer
Climb the wall just right of the arete.
2 user comments
 
Technical
6b
46
The End
Very poor, the short wall has a hard start leading past a break to a ledge and lower-off.
 6a