Aldery Cliff Routes

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Morning sun
Roadside
0 mins
Sheltered

An ancient quarry that offers an unusual array of lower grade slabby limestone routes. The crag is popular and the routes are polished. It gets morning sun. Guidebook page 174.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sword and Stone
Overgrown.
 E2 5b
2
The High Crusade
Overgrown.
 E2 5c
3
Hidden Corner
Overgrown.
1 user comment
 HS 4a
4
Therianthropic
The second crack to the left of the corner. Becoming overgrown. Belay in the trees.
 HVS 5a
5
Jackorner
Climb the corner to a rightwards exit onto vegetated ground.
1 user comment
 VS 4c
6
Lethanol
Overgrown.
 HVS 5a
7
Timber
Overgrown.
1 user comment
 HS 4a
8
Rent a Ghost
Overgrown.
1 user comment
 S
9
The Clone of Jeremiah
Overgrown.
 VS 4c
10
Nazi Baby
Overgrown.
 S
11
Cooper's Peg Route
A good little exercise for the connoisseur. Climb up the ramp and arrange some gear. Move back left and make a hard pull up the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2 6a
12
November Wall
Start at a flake, or start as for Cooper's Peg Route and move right. Climb the boldish wall (wires behind some dubious flakes)...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
13
The Arete
The best route in the quarry, following the fine arete. Make tricky starting moves past some unconvincing wires/micro-cams to...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
14
Mitre Crack
The zigzag cracks give a good little route. Sometimes has bats.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
15
Chance in a Marillion
A bold and technical eliminate up the slab between the cracks. Hard moves near the top and less escapable than it looks from...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E3 6a
16
The Cardinal
The rightward-slanting crack into the corner. The corner itself provides a trickier-than-expected finish.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
17
The Actress/The Bishop
A combination of two old routes which used the huge block (which now lies under the wall). This new line follows the corner all...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5b
18
Sycamore Crack
The tree-choked fissure up the slab to the right has been spruced up recently. An ascent requires as much tree climbing ability...
 HS 4b
19
Carmen Sutra
Climb the crack right of Carmen to a break at 6m. Traverse easily to gain a vertical crack and follow this to the top. The...
 VS 4c
20
Carmen Jones
The left arete of the narrow slab up and right has been given a wash and brush-up. Worth doing.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
VS 4c
21
Carmen
A nice pitch up the clean slab. Follow the left-hand crack to reach another crack trending right (polished) which leads to a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
22
Anti-Digestant
Climb the slab, just left of a short left-facing corner, passing a tricky section. Follow a crack to a ledge and continue to a...
2 user comments
 HVS 5a
23
Ash Tree Slab
Climb the left-facing corner to a ledge on the right, it can also be started direct, The Nonsense Man Start, 5a Follow the...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4a
24
Nettlerash
The central crack of the slab gives an interesting pitch, with plenty of protection, and polish. At the tree stump, finish left...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4a
25
Broken Toe
The blank line on the right-hand side of the slab. Climb past thin cracks (which don't take wires) and make a series of...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
26
Central Arete
The blocky arete leads to a ledge. Step left and use the trees to reach a belay ledge, or go direct at 4b. A top section can be...
4 user comments
 HVD
27
Jeremy's Jungular Jaunt
Overgrown
 S
28
Jackdaw Gully
The overgrown gully.
 HVD
29
Janbaloo
Straightforward slab-climbing, but light on gear. Start on the left-hand side of the slab, and climb to a break. Step up, then...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5b
30
Surface Plate
One of the more popular routes in the quarry, giving some testing slab moves. Overall however, it is low in the grade. Climb...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
31
Clothesline
Climb the diagonal crack into the corner. Follow another crack here to the ledge. Awkward belays on wires behind, or drop down...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
S 4a
32
The Fly
Start up Clothesline, but move right onto the wall. Climb this into a corner and find a tree to belay on. Abseil off.
2 user comments
 HVS 5a
33
The Spider
Climb the groove to the right of the main slab towards a tree. Step left before you reach it, onto an arete, and climb this to...
5 user comments
 
Fluttery
VS 4c
34
Burst
Scramble up to a ledge below a groove. Climb this, and the crack above to the tree on The Spider. Abseil off.
 
Fluttery
HVS 4c
35
The Bender
Climb the scoop to the left of the arete to the big ledge - optional belay on the left here. Climb the slab above to a crack...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
36
Terrace Wall
Climb the arete which is awkward at the top. Possible belay on the ledge. Move up into a groove and step right into a slabby...
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
VS 4b
37
A Question of Palance
The shallow groove just to the right of the lower arete and a continuation between the two finishes of the previous climb.
 VS 4b
38
Right Arete
Amble up the blunt right-hand arete to the terrace, then more of the same and an awkward mantle to reach the groove above and a...
 
Rounded
VS 4b
39
Deceptor
Overgrown.
 VS 4c
40
Central Gully
Very overgrown.
 VD
41
Black Country Rock
Overgrown.
 HVS 5a
42
Ash Tree Arete
The grassy-covered left-hand edge of the slab has become too overgrown.
 HVD
43
Formic
Overgrown.
 VS 4c
44
Venom
Overgrown.
1 user comment
 HVS 5b
45
Yukio
Overgrown.
 VS 4c
46
Sans Nom
Overgrown.
 VS 4b
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For ALDERY CLIFF

    Anti-Digestant
    "Yes, Micros needed at the start, then the rest is easier." 15/Aug

    The Fly
    "I think route has suffered over the winter and lost some holds/pro, also some ve..." 13/Apr

    The Spider
    "The one move may have just got harder due to my second inadvertently removing th..." 26/May

    Ash Tree Slab
    "Nice route well protected, worth its HS4a mainly due to a very slippery ending." 01/Jun

    The Actress/The Bishop
    "The start is clean enough now - nice route; tough starting moves and then pleasa..." 09/Mar

    The Spider
    "Certainly a one move wonder but by no means atrocious" 25/Feb

    Venom
    "Its still a good climb Hvs 5b just needs more traffic.There was a small loose ho..." 18/Feb

    Mitre Crack
    "Good gear, nice crux and nowhere near the polish of the popular Stoney routes. A..." 18/Feb

    Ash Tree Slab
    "Unlike Nettlerash this one really did feel HS 4a due to the poorly protected sta..." 17/Sep

    Mitre Crack
    "Bats still seemed to be there this week too! I enjoyed this although got pumped..." 14/Sep

    The Cardinal
    "A polished horror." 05/Sep

    November Wall
    "Nice route up positive flatties, though trying to decide left/right near the top..." 08/Aug

    Surface Plate
    "I've been climbing on Derbyshire grit for a good few years now, so to get my fir..." 21/Jul

    Clothesline
    "very nice route, if rather polished (as all the routes seem to be to a greater o..." 04/Jun

    The Spider
    "There is no way this route is VS 4c, perhaps because of the changes Pete mention..." 02/May

    Mitre Crack
    "Good route, I'd give it two stars, although perhaps that's because the rest of t..." 21/Dec

    Mitre Crack
    "Such a wonderful line on this undistinguished crag. If it were unpolished I'd su..." 10/Sep

    The Cardinal
    "Great route, albeit a bit polished. Possibly 5a but stacks of gear throughout" 10/Aug

    Janbaloo
    "seconded this after leading surface plate....Janbaloo definately much harder; be..." 22/May

    Surface Plate
    "my first HVS lead!! nice route, not to taxing and plenty of gear to catch you....." 22/May

    Carmen
    "A superb route. Stay well left of the tree belay, a load of loose rock was trund..." 18/Apr

    Anti-Digestant
    "Thin climbing to start with, take your small runners!" 16/Oct

    Nettlerash
    "Not very much of the tree stump is left now - it's mostly gone, compared to what..." 10/Oct

    The Cardinal
    "I found the crack tricky, positive footholds are few and far between and the cra..." 21/Sep

    The Arete
    "Ooh Fiend! Lay off the poor route! Must disagree, gear didn't find to be fiddly ..." 30/Jul

    Janbaloo
    "Best done without the side runner, even then it only felt hvs 4c to me, far easi..." 01/Jul

    Nettlerash
    "I'm sure this used to be graded VS 4c - OK a soft touch at that grade. The flak..." 04/May

    Hidden Corner
    "Top out is highly overgrown with brambles on an unstable earth slope. Either arr..." 26/Apr

    Surface Plate
    "a nice route and probably the best on the crag" 17/Apr

    Broken Toe
    "Good fun but a little polished. The hardest move is getting established in the c..." 02/Mar

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