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Morning sun
Roadside
0 minsAn ancient quarry that offers an unusual array of lower grade slabby limestone routes. The crag is popular and the routes are polished. It gets morning sun. Guidebook page 174.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Sword and Stone Overgrown. | E2 5b | |
2 |
The High Crusade Overgrown. | E2 5c | |
3 |
Hidden Corner Overgrown. 1 user comment | HS 4a | |
4 |
Therianthropic The second crack to the left of the corner. Becoming overgrown. Belay in the trees. | HVS 5a | |
5 |
Jackorner Climb the corner to a rightwards exit onto vegetated ground. 1 user comment | VS 4c | |
6 |
Lethanol Overgrown. | HVS 5a | |
7 |
Timber Overgrown. 1 user comment | HS 4a | |
8 |
Rent a Ghost Overgrown. 1 user comment | S | |
9 |
The Clone of Jeremiah Overgrown. | VS 4c | |
10 |
Nazi Baby Overgrown. | S | |
11 |
Cooper's Peg Route A good little exercise for the connoisseur. Climb up the ramp and arrange some gear. Move back left and make a hard pull up the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong | E2 6a |
12 |
November Wall Start at a flake, or start as for Cooper's Peg Route and move right. Climb the boldish wall (wires behind some dubious flakes)... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
13 |
The Arete The best route in the quarry, following the fine arete. Make tricky starting moves past some unconvincing wires/micro-cams to... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E1 5a |
14 |
Mitre Crack The zigzag cracks give a good little route. Sometimes has bats. 8 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
15 |
Chance in a Marillion A bold and technical eliminate up the slab between the cracks. Hard moves near the top and less escapable than it looks from... 1 user comment | Fluttery | E3 6a |
16 |
The Cardinal The rightward-slanting crack into the corner. The corner itself provides a trickier-than-expected finish. 5 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
17 |
The Actress/The Bishop A combination of two old routes which used the huge block (which now lies under the wall). This new line follows the corner all... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5b |
18 |
Sycamore Crack The tree-choked fissure up the slab to the right has been spruced up recently. An ascent requires as much tree climbing ability... | HS 4b | |
19 |
Carmen Sutra Climb the crack right of Carmen to a break at 6m. Traverse easily to gain a vertical crack and follow this to the top. The... | VS 4c | |
20 |
Carmen Jones The left arete of the narrow slab up and right has been given a wash and brush-up. Worth doing. 1 user comment | Rounded | VS 4c |
21 |
Carmen A nice pitch up the clean slab. Follow the left-hand crack to reach another crack trending right (polished) which leads to a... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
22 |
Anti-Digestant Climb the slab, just left of a short left-facing corner, passing a tricky section. Follow a crack to a ledge and continue to a... 2 user comments | HVS 5a | |
23 |
Ash Tree Slab Climb the left-facing corner to a ledge on the right, it can also be started direct, The Nonsense Man Start, 5a Follow the... 6 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4a |
24 |
Nettlerash The central crack of the slab gives an interesting pitch, with plenty of protection, and polish. At the tree stump, finish left... 6 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4a |
25 |
Broken Toe The blank line on the right-hand side of the slab. Climb past thin cracks (which don't take wires) and make a series of... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 4c |
26 |
Central Arete The blocky arete leads to a ledge. Step left and use the trees to reach a belay ledge, or go direct at 4b. A top section can be... 4 user comments | HVD | |
27 |
Jeremy's Jungular Jaunt Overgrown | S | |
28 |
Jackdaw Gully The overgrown gully. | HVD | |
29 |
Janbaloo Straightforward slab-climbing, but light on gear. Start on the left-hand side of the slab, and climb to a break. Step up, then... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5b |
30 |
Surface Plate One of the more popular routes in the quarry, giving some testing slab moves. Overall however, it is low in the grade. Climb... 3 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
31 |
Clothesline Climb the diagonal crack into the corner. Follow another crack here to the ledge. Awkward belays on wires behind, or drop down... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | S 4a |
32 |
The Fly Start up Clothesline, but move right onto the wall. Climb this into a corner and find a tree to belay on. Abseil off. 2 user comments | HVS 5a | |
33 |
The Spider Climb the groove to the right of the main slab towards a tree. Step left before you reach it, onto an arete, and climb this to... 5 user comments | Fluttery | VS 4c |
34 |
Burst Scramble up to a ledge below a groove. Climb this, and the crack above to the tree on The Spider. Abseil off. | Fluttery | HVS 4c |
35 |
The Bender Climb the scoop to the left of the arete to the big ledge - optional belay on the left here. Climb the slab above to a crack... | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
36 |
Terrace Wall Climb the arete which is awkward at the top. Possible belay on the ledge. Move up into a groove and step right into a slabby... 2 user comments | Rounded Fluttery | VS 4b |
37 |
A Question of Palance The shallow groove just to the right of the lower arete and a continuation between the two finishes of the previous climb. | VS 4b | |
38 |
Right Arete Amble up the blunt right-hand arete to the terrace, then more of the same and an awkward mantle to reach the groove above and a... | Rounded | VS 4b |
39 |
Deceptor Overgrown. | VS 4c | |
40 |
Central Gully Very overgrown. | VD | |
41 |
Black Country Rock Overgrown. | HVS 5a | |
42 |
Ash Tree Arete The grassy-covered left-hand edge of the slab has become too overgrown. | HVD | |
43 |
Formic Overgrown. | VS 4c | |
44 |
Venom Overgrown. 1 user comment | HVS 5b | |
45 |
Yukio Overgrown. | VS 4c | |
46 |
Sans Nom Overgrown. | VS 4b | |