Craig-y-Biceps

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
No sun
Uphill
1 min
Seepage
Sheltered

This north-facing crag is unclimbable for much of the year. It is inclined to be vegetated as it sees so little traffic. When in condition, it offers some decent steep sport routes in the 7a/b range and a few less good easier routes on the right-hand side. Guidebook page 138.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Suck yer Thumb
 6b
2
Held Her Head
 6b
3
She didna Ken
 
Crimpy
6b+
4
J.L.N.O.E.
The left-hand side of the bulges requires a fair amount of power.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
5
Much Monkey Magic
Excellent sustained climbing with some puzzling moves. Hard all the way including using the flat holds over the bulge.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
6
Otto di Catania
A hard move over the mid-height bulge to gain a slot. Then move up to an edge by the bolt and make a hard stretch/jump for a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
7a+
7
Blazed, but Amazed
Frequently overgrown. If you thrash through this then you will find a desperate crux. Above the breaks, step right and climb...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
8
Meandering Peace Meal
The steep and sustained trad line to the right.
 
Pumpy
E5 6b
9
The Philandering Sons of Magic Women
Up the wall to a break, follow the curving crack above.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
10
A Wild Man from Way Back When
Start on the small ledge. Climb the wall past a prominent undercut block. There is a hidden bolt over the first bulge.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
11
Duelling Biceps
Climb the steep wall to a roof, then gain a hanging groove above. Finish on the left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
12
A Woman in Wellingtons
 
Crimpy
7b
13
Wet yer Whistle
Climb to a break then tackle the bulges to a wide crack on the left. Haul over the roof and continue more easily up a groove.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
14
The Main Motor Mile
The best route on the crag. Climb up to the break, launch up the crack to the hole, move left (knee-bar?), then pull over and...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a+
15
Pingham's Route
The steepest route over the bulges at their widest point.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
16
Pinging in the Rain
A good link between the routes on either side.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
17
Laughing at the Rain
The bulging right arete gives a modern classic. Climb a short wall and stretch past the lower bulge to reach jugs. Continue up...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7c
18
Mesmerized
An indirect line, but in a fine position. Gain the hanging corner via hard moves in from the right. Climb the groove, then exit...
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a+
19
You Know U.F.O.s
Start as for Mesmerized, but pull direct through the tiered-roof to a large flat hold on the lip. Make some fingery moves to a...
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a+
20
E.T.
The roof crack finish to You Know U.F.O.s is an epic struggle.
 
1 Stars
7b+
21
Euphoric
Climb through the bulging roofs on undercuts and breaks to gain a crack over the lip. Continue directly to join U.F.O.s.
 
Technical
Strong
7a
22
Pneumatic
The powerful bulge followed by some stretches.
 
Reachy
6c+
23
Ecstatic
Soon eases.
 6b
24
Fantastic
A juggy bulge and groove above.
 
Reachy
6b
25
Traumatic
Big holds and a bit of a heave.
 6b+
26
Check Out
The bulge leads to jugs. Up the crack and exit left.
 
1 Stars
6a
27
New Nomad
 6b+
28
Napped a Nod
 6a+
29
Burning Rubber
The grotty wall 4m left of the corner which is left of the MMM bulges.
 E3 5c
30
Phaseout
The hanging corner left of the Much Monkey Magic bulges.
 E1 5b