Beerhouse Buttress Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
No sun
0 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

a natural buttress with compact rock giving routes of a fingery and sustained nature, with lots of small holds which are often hard to locate when unchalked
Approach - The crag is situated above the railway line that runs parallel to the A6 in Ashwood Dale, just to the east of Buxton. It is above the derelict pub, just west of the water treatment works. 100m west of the pub parking is a fenced concrete area with room for 3 or 4 cars - beware of fast traffic here. This is 1 mile from the Morrisons' roundabout. Pass round the left-hand side of the fencing then from the left-hand corner of the clearing, cross the fence and scramble up the steep loose bank until you pop out onto the railway line where the crag can be seen above you. A small path leads up rightwards to the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Nice Melons
Dreadful climbing up the rib left of the cave. Don't climb.
 
Loose
6b
2
Gimme Shelter
A short technical problem over the bulge above the cave. Two moves of any significance but both hard ones.
 
Technical
7a
3
And the Roof Fell In
Another very short but power-packed problem over the roof right of Gimme Shelter. Seldom climbed.
 
Strong
7b
4
Intifada
An easier route weaving through the caves and bulges.
 6a+
5
Last Man First
A disjointed route with hard moves to a big ledge and the obligatory tricky finish over a roof.
 
Technical
7a
6
Chain Reaction
The blunt rib leading to the left-hand side of the big scoop.
 
Technical
7a
7
Jewfish
Fierce technical climbing up the almost-blank wall marked by gold-coloured bolts. Finish by stepping left into Chain Reaction.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
8
Jihad
Another fingery test-piece following a snaking line up the wall. More flashable than its neighbour but only just.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
9
Here
The steep wall directly above the big tree has several tricky moves. Once again, it is difficult to onsight if unchalked.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
10
We are not Alone
The wall just left of a groove has two reachy moves.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
11
Little Brown Men
The vague corner has a technical crux.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
12
Clotted Cream
The standard crag warm-up will give you a good impression of what to expect on the others. Move left at the low break although...
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
13
The Age of Unreason
The second most popular route on the crag is only a touch harder than Clotted Cream. It follows a slight groove to a steep...
 
1 Stars
6b
14
Savage Girth
Start virtually as for Age of Unreason but pull right into a hanging corner.
 
1 Stars
6b+
15
Idiot Nation
Steeper climbing with a serious 2nd clip. Aim for the big pinch above the second bolt. Finish out right onto a ledge.
1 user comment
 
Technical
6c
16
It's Uranus
Steep and very thin climbing aiming for a left-facing groove. Gold-coloured bolts.
 6c+
17
Dripping Mercury
Another short and desperate little route.
 6c+
18
Men are from Mars, Women are from Venus
A final diddy offering that packs a punch.
 6c