The Left Wing

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Main Face - Left >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

This is the little brother to the Main Face but it still has some top-notch routes and would rate as a fine crag in its own right were it anywhere else. As it is, it often gets forgotten by climbers who are distracted by the rock to the right. If you do manage to make the effort then you will be rewarded with some fine pitches, but be careful on the loose bands of rock at the top and bottom of the face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
World's End
The first in a series of quality E4s is probably the easiest of the bunch. Start at the far left-hand end of the grassy ledge...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
2
New World Order
20m. Move up to an undercut crack from the jammed nut on World's End. Climb this until a step left can be made on to a ledge...
 E1 5b
3
No Entry
The second E4 is also at the lower end of the grade. From the middle of the grassy ledge, pull over a small bulge and climb a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E4 6a
4
China Spring
High in the grade but consensus suggests that it is probably not really E5. Start at the right-hand end of the grass ledge....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
E4 6a
5
Yellow Brick Road
Another E4 with a hard but well-protected crux move. From the right-hand end of the ledge, clip the peg on China Spring then...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
6
Amber Gambler
The best climb on the Left Wing, with magnificent moves and few rests. From the right-hand end of the ledge, move up rightwards...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
7
A6
A long and devious pitch which is rarely done nowadays despite lots of good climbing. Follow Amber Gambler to the hole, then...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
8
High Torquing
A free version of the aid route Extender, which goes where Roadrunner wanted to go. Fully bolted to the junction with...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
9
Beep
37m. Follow A6 until right of the nose. Continue rightwards keeping just above the overhang until the final corner of M1 can be...
 E5 6a
10
Roadrunner
A sustained traverse with reasonable protection. Start up the groove of M1 and, at the bulge, hand-traverse left (large cam...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E6 6b
11
Wil E. Coyote
A good hard pitch crossing M1. Follow Roadrunner until you are a couple of metres across its traverse. Then make some desperate...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
12
M1
A fantastic route for the grade taking a strong line up the shield with varied climbing in a superb position. Best done as...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E2 5b
13
Mad Max
Once one of the most serious routes on British limestone, originally sieged over two days and done in two pitches. Following a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E6 6b
14
V2
A worthwhile companion to Delta-G with some extending moves between spaced gear. Slightly marred by the crucial chipped holds....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
15
Bleep
31m. From the bottom of the top groove of M1 traverse a break to the left edge of the buttress.
1 user comment
 E2 5c
16
Delta-G
The excellent narrow groove is harder than it looks; tricky to enter (peg in the groove) and desperate to leave. Eventually it...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
17
Entropy
A fine route up the long flake/corner towards the right-hand side of the wall. Big cams help along the way or just attack the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
VS 4c
18
Lay-by
Start left of an ivy-covered tree at the right-hand end of the wall. Climb the corner to a possible belay under the overhang....
 
Loose
HVS 5b
19
Once in a Millennium
A rockfall may have altered this route - care required. From under the overhang on Lay-by, move left until you are below a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
20
The Girdle Traverse
A great challenge but unfortunately, in its totality, not a great climb. The best pitches are 2, 3, 9 and 10 (the latter two...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
21
Layby
30m. Start left of an ivy-covered tree at the right-hand end of the wall. Climb the corner to a possible belay under the...
 
Loose
HVS 5b
22
Shah Shah a Go Go
1) 5a, 18m. Follow Millennium but keep going left to a pedestal right of Entropy. 2) 5b, 18m. Follow Entropy and traverse right...
 E3 5b
23
Statement of Yof
30m. Destroyed by rockfall.
1 user comment
 E2 5c
24
Enthalpy
The crack through the right-hand side of the overhang.
1 user comment
 HVS 4c
25
Sting Ray
30m. The groove and flake to a ledge.
 HVS 5a
26
Hanging Block
The next crack through the bulge, past a hanging block, leads to a ledge. Continue above through the larger bulge. Can be split...
 HVS 5b
27
Night Owl
The groove 10m left of the gully leads to a ledge. The top pitch follows and easy (4c) flake off rightwards.
 E2 5c
28
Cold Turkey
30m. Climb leftwards from the base of High Tor Gully to the mid-height ledge.
 E1 5a
29
High Tour
A high-level girdle covering little new ground, but in a superb position. Start at the tree at the top of Debauchery. 1. 20m....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For HIGH TOR

    Memories
    "Perhaps the best route of its grade on Peak Limestone?" 05/May

    Original Route
    "Six years on, I wonder how much that 20kg block is worth now Jon?" 20/Jul top50

    No Entry
    "Backed off the committing hard pull off the ledge as the rock with your first ge..." 01/Jul

    Still Searching
    "Appears that some rock has come off just below the small sapling making it a bit..." 24/Aug

    Dutch Moon
    "Good rock + moves if you stay on line" 27/Jun

    Prejudice
    "This is a great little trad route. I agree care is needed with protection - whic..." 20/Jun

    Robert Brown
    "Did this first back in the early 80's and found the gear very low down and not i..." 15/Dec

    Prejudice
    "The climbing is not difficult but getting solid protection throughout requires ..." 07/Dec

    M1
    "did this a couope of weeks before Andy and agree with his comments. This route ..." 02/Aug

    M1
    "Gear is fine. Insitu gear is rubbish but not needed at all as it is easy to back..." 23/Jul

    Robert Brown
    "Peg in P1 RB replaced, but the shield of rock it's in and which gives the last p..." 10/Jul

    Prejudice
    "Ian is correct." 05/Jul

    Robert Brown
    "The new peg is now loose. It came out easily by hand - I pushed it back in. Is t..." 20/Jun

    Skylight
    "There's a very loose rocking block in the base of the chimney just after the in-..." 03/Jun top50

    The Phrantic Phinish
    "Having eyeballed this line over the years when abbing from the debauchery tree, ..." 10/Oct

    Supersonic
    "The pegs in the starting groove are now looking much better now.....replaced 08/..." 21/Sep

    Original Route
    "The tree stump is gone as of today." 16/Aug top50

    Darius
    "there's now some tat by the old bolt. Whoever thinks this is polished should ..." 26/Jul top50

    Perseus
    "Fantastic route. Going straight up to the overlap without the clipping the peg ..." 12/Oct

    Highlight
    "The black and yellow coloured rock on the right side of the route immediately ab..." 13/Sep top50

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