Adjacent Areas
< The Left Wing | Main Face - The Diagonals >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 minsWindy
Although High Tor is most famous for its clean white sheets of pocketed rock, the left-hand side of the main face is characterised by some huge overhangs and long, towering corners. The great cave of Castellan is a hard barrier to cross which means that many of the routes are in the higher grades, however further left are a few orange-spot climbs which are as good as any of their grade in the Peak. Also worthwhile are the cunning routes, like Laurin and its near-neighbours, which weave their way through the roofs. Guidebook page 349.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
High Tor Gully Of historical significance only, as the cause of a major rift in the ancient Kyndwr Club. The massive legendary cleft on the... 3 user comments | Loose | VD |
2 |
Penelope Pitstop 40m. A poor attempt at a free version of Side Road, starting just right of High Tor Gully and continuing up the arete above.... | 6b | |
3 |
Lamplight The prominent corner at the left-hand end of the wall. The start is tricky then detour left around the roof at half-height. 2 user comments | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
4 |
Lumb Lane The groove and cracks left of Lamplight, in 2 pitches - 4c, 4c. | HVS 4c | |
5 |
Sportlight A great line, but with disappointing climbing up the arete left of Highlight. Follow the line of bolts past a hard move to... | 1 Stars Pumpy Loose | 7a |
6 |
Searchlight 37m. Climb the loose wall above two sycamore trees, keeping left of the arete. A rarely climbed route. | E3 5c | |
7 |
Highlight Top 50 The long corner with a large capping roof gives a fine route, high in the grade and with a smattering of loose rock for added... 13 user comments | 3 Stars | HVS 5a |
8 |
Skylight Top 50 One of the original free routes on the cliff, polished and with some spaced gear, but still well worthwhile.1) 4b, 18m.... 12 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
9 |
Approach Pitch A bolted pitch to allow access to the cave for the sport routes. This is not worth doing in its own right. | 6b | |
10 |
Armalite Half way up pitch 2 of Skylight, move left under some roofs. Climb a crack then move right around the overhang to a finishing... | E4 5c | |
11 |
Plight of the Rich Despite recent retrobolting, the wall right of Skylight still feels a bit spicy in parts, though less so than when it was E5... 2 user comments | Reachy Fluttery Loose | 7a+ |
12 |
Light and Shade An impressive line but with the occasional chipped hold. Start 4m right of Skylight, usually on a pile of blocks. Pull through... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Strong | 7a+ |
13 |
Pump out the Squealies A route of delightful contrasts. A powerful, fingery lower wall leads to an excruciatingly delicate and scary move to finish.... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | 7b+ |
14 |
Squeezin' Out Sparks One of the few remaining aid points in the Peak finally succumbed in 2007. Originally split, it is now done in a single pitch.... 2 user comments | Reachy Pumpy | 7c |
15 |
Limelight Climb the roof past three glue-in bolts, by powerful moves and a huge span, to reach the sustained upper wall. It is possible... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | 8a |
16 |
Castellan The impressive roof at the right end of the cave is more reasonable than it appears from a distance. Well-protected but... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Graunchy | E5 6b |
17 |
Laurin Two contrasting pitches, each with a short hard section between rests and lots of exposure. The upper crack can get choked with... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Reachy Strong | E3 6a |
18 |
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys Intricate route finding in wild positions - an underrated classic which needs a steady second. Be aware of the state of the old... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
19 |
Party in the Park An eliminate that visits some wild spots.1) 6a, 22m. Start as for Hot Gossip. After entering the groove traverse left at an... | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
20 |
Hot Gossip A complex line, finding its way through some unlikely territory, but with good climbing. Start under the left-hand of a pair of... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery Loose | E5 6a |
21 |
The Phrantic Phinish 20m. An alternative finish to Nightmare of Brown Donkeys or Laurin. From the Laurin stance, climb to the roof, thread, and... 3 user comments | E4 5c | |
