Main Face - Left

Adjacent Areas
< The Left Wing  |  Main Face - The Diagonals >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

Although High Tor is most famous for its clean white sheets of pocketed rock, the left-hand side of the main face is characterised by some huge overhangs and long, towering corners. The great cave of Castellan is a hard barrier to cross which means that many of the routes are in the higher grades, however further left are a few orange-spot climbs which are as good as any of their grade in the Peak. Also worthwhile are the cunning routes, like Laurin and its near-neighbours, which weave their way through the roofs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
High Tor Gully
Of historical significance only, as the cause of a major rift in the ancient Kyndwr Club. The massive legendary cleft on the...
3 user comments
 
Loose
VD
2
Penelope Pitstop
40m. A poor attempt at a free version of Side Road, starting just right of High Tor Gully and continuing up the arete above....
 6b
3
Lamplight
The prominent corner at the left-hand end of the wall. The start is tricky then detour left around the roof at half-height.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
4
Lumb Lane
The groove and cracks left of Lamplight, in 2 pitches - 4c, 4c.
 HVS 4c
5
Sportlight
A great line, but with disappointing climbing up the arete left of Highlight. Follow the line of bolts past a hard move to...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
7a
6
Searchlight
37m. Climb the loose wall above two sycamore trees, keeping left of the arete. A rarely climbed route.
 E3 5c
7
Highlight Top 50
The long corner with a large capping roof gives a fine route, high in the grade and with a smattering of loose rock for added...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
8
Skylight Top 50
One of the original free routes on the cliff, polished and with some spaced gear, but still well worthwhile.1) 4b, 18m....
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
9
Approach Pitch
A bolted pitch to allow access to the cave for the sport routes. This is not worth doing in its own right.
 6b
10
Armalite
Half way up pitch 2 of Skylight, move left under some roofs. Climb a crack then move right around the overhang to a finishing...
 E4 5c
11
Plight of the Rich
Despite recent retrobolting, the wall right of Skylight still feels a bit spicy in parts, though less so than when it was E5...
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Fluttery
Loose
7a+
12
Light and Shade
An impressive line but with the occasional chipped hold. Start 4m right of Skylight, usually on a pile of blocks. Pull through...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7a+
13
Pump out the Squealies
A route of delightful contrasts. A powerful, fingery lower wall leads to an excruciatingly delicate and scary move to finish....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b+
14
Squeezin' Out Sparks
One of the few remaining aid points in the Peak finally succumbed in 2007. Originally split, it is now done in a single pitch....
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Pumpy
7c
15
Limelight
Climb the roof past three glue-in bolts, by powerful moves and a huge span, to reach the sustained upper wall. It is possible...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
8a
16
Castellan
The impressive roof at the right end of the cave is more reasonable than it appears from a distance. Well-protected but...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Graunchy
E5 6b
17
Laurin
Two contrasting pitches, each with a short hard section between rests and lots of exposure. The upper crack can get choked with...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
E3 6a
18
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys
Intricate route finding in wild positions - an underrated classic which needs a steady second. Be aware of the state of the old...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
19
Party in the Park
An eliminate that visits some wild spots.1) 6a, 22m. Start as for Hot Gossip. After entering the groove traverse left at an...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
20
Hot Gossip
A complex line, finding its way through some unlikely territory, but with good climbing. Start under the left-hand of a pair of...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6a
21
The Phrantic Phinish
20m. An alternative finish to Nightmare of Brown Donkeys or Laurin. From the Laurin stance, climb to the roof, thread, and...
3 user comments
 E4 5c
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For HIGH TOR

    Memories
    "Perhaps the best route of its grade on Peak Limestone?" 05/May

    Original Route
    "Six years on, I wonder how much that 20kg block is worth now Jon?" 20/Jul top50

    No Entry
    "Backed off the committing hard pull off the ledge as the rock with your first ge..." 01/Jul

    Still Searching
    "Appears that some rock has come off just below the small sapling making it a bit..." 24/Aug

    Dutch Moon
    "Good rock + moves if you stay on line" 27/Jun

    Prejudice
    "This is a great little trad route. I agree care is needed with protection - whic..." 20/Jun

    Robert Brown
    "Did this first back in the early 80's and found the gear very low down and not i..." 15/Dec

    Prejudice
    "The climbing is not difficult but getting solid protection throughout requires ..." 07/Dec

    M1
    "did this a couope of weeks before Andy and agree with his comments. This route ..." 02/Aug

    M1
    "Gear is fine. Insitu gear is rubbish but not needed at all as it is easy to back..." 23/Jul

    Robert Brown
    "Peg in P1 RB replaced, but the shield of rock it's in and which gives the last p..." 10/Jul

    Prejudice
    "Ian is correct." 05/Jul

    Robert Brown
    "The new peg is now loose. It came out easily by hand - I pushed it back in. Is t..." 20/Jun

    Skylight
    "There's a very loose rocking block in the base of the chimney just after the in-..." 03/Jun top50

    The Phrantic Phinish
    "Having eyeballed this line over the years when abbing from the debauchery tree, ..." 10/Oct

    Search for comments