Adjacent Areas
< Cornice | None >
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and Down
20 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
The name gives you the right impression - a buttress that is more about vegetation than rock. However, after some hard work by Gary Gibson in the late 1990s, the wall contains a selection of well-bolted sport routes. Of the trad routes, Blood Lust is worth a look. Guidebook page 208.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Way of the Gone Wives Behind a tree at the left-hand end of the wall. An easy lower wall and thin flake higher up. Gold bolts. | 6b+ | |
2 |
Custard Pie in yer Eye A shallow groove and a bulge. Belay on the tree above. | Technical | 6c |
3 |
Cry Havoc A short wall and groove. | 6c | |
4 |
Fallout Zone The wall with a bulge just to the right of Cry Havoc. | Technical | 6c |
5 |
Gaseous Exchange Climb the wall to a bulge. Pull around this (hard clip) and finish up the technical wall above. | 1 Stars Strong | 6c+ |
6 |
Chemical Weapons An easy wall leads to a difficult bulge. There is more hard climbing on the wall above. | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 7a |
7 |
Rhubarb, Rhubarb, Rhubarb Climb easily to reach a technical rib, above and right of the roof. Cross this to the lower-off. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
8 |
Semolina Sunday The easy wall leads to a ledge and the break. Above this a few sharp pulls are needed to gain the belay. Can be slimy as it... | 6c+ | |
9 |
The Bee's Knees Seldom climbed and probably filthy. The groove right of Semolina to the break. Move up and right to gain a groove leading to a... | Loose | E1 5a |
10 |
The Garlic Twist Start right of the groove of The Bee's Knees. It has a hard start and a tricky move on side-pulls above the bulge. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
11 |
A Laugh a Minute An artificial line starting up The Bee's Knees, traversing the break rightwards to finish up what is now Feline Fine. Pretty... | E5 6a | |
12 |
Brief Camouflage A good route up the clean wall with some technical moves above the break on layaways. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
13 |
The Day of the Long Knives Given 7b+ by some but it isn't really a sport route in its current condition. After the start, head right to the break. Make... | Fluttery | E6 6b |
14 |
Feline Fine Good climbing on the lower wall but above the break the main difficulty is keeping out of the groove. | 1 Stars | 6c |
15 |
Fat Ginger Cat Start just right of the short crack of Feline Fine. Climb the hard wall to the break then continue with more difficulty to a... | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
16 |
Turbo-charged Monster Mouse The centre of the tallest section of the wall has some excellent technical moves. | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |
17 |
Thrash Your Woodie Climb the right-hand side of the wall to a high arching overlap. Finish by heading left. | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
18 |
Me Tarzan Tackle the left-hand edge of the long bulging roof. | Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
19 |
De Vine Just to the left of the hanging ivy. A desperate short bulge is ideally suited to those with strong tiny fingers. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8a |
20 |
Blood Lust A worthwhile trad route. Climb a line of scoops and undercuts to the groove. Finish up the fine flake on the right to a tree.... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | E2 5c |
21 |
Zebedee Visits the Clinic The continuation of the Zebedee story takes a line over the centre of the cave roof. When climbed people used to lower-off the... | E6 6b | |
22 |
Bad Blood An old-style trad route with little protection on the lower wall. At the break, avoid the roof by a crafty traverse before... | Fluttery | E5 6a |
23 |
Blue-arsed Fly A much harder version of the roof to Zebedee but equally as neglected. | E6 6c | |
24 |
Blood Transfusion The right-hand edge of the wall. The start to the bolt needs bouldering out and then comes the crux. At the break, pull over as... | Technical | E5 6b |
25 |
The Rainmaker The groove right of the big roof has three old bolts. Please avoid this route because of the rare ferns at its base. | 7b+ | |
26 |
Lady's Finger Climb the left-hand line of bolts. Much easier when chalked. | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
27 |
The European Female A good route worth cleaning. Although short, it is no pushover; from the first move to the last it hardly lets up. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
28 |
Bloodworm Another dirty and forgotten climb. Climb the wall left of the red streak aiming for the high groove. Finish at a tree. | E3 6a | |
29 |
Moonflower A dirty line 3m right of European Female. | E4 6a | |
30 |
Naiad The scoop right of Moonflower to the same finish. | E1 5b | |
31 |
Nip the Nippon The vague groove-line right of Naiad. Finish rightwards over the roof. | E2 5b | |
