Right Wing

Adjacent Areas
< Main Face  |  None >

Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

A crag which has been walked past and pretty much ignored by most people for many years has given a new lease of life. Not only are there now a number of good sport routes to go at, the trad climbing here is also well worth the effort. Most routes end at lower-offs - convenient, since the crag top is a bit of a jungle.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
M.U.G.S. Route
Another 2 pitch route left of the descent route.
 HVS
2
No Way
The left-hand line.
 6b+
3
My Way
The central bolted line.
 7a+
4
Lee Way
An old trad line past some fixed gear.
 E5 6b
5
Wezzy Wonks
A two pitch route left of the old descent path.
 HVS
6
Sideways
The final route on the right edge of the climbable rock up here.
 6c
7
All the Wubble u's
Skirt the left-hand edge of the wall to gain the diagonal groove. Climb this then swing right to the lower-off.
 E3 5c
8
Zed Legs
Climb straight up past a thread to gain the base of the lower ramp. Continue up the ramp before moving back left to gain some...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
9
That X Factor
Good climbing. From the thread in Zed Legs move left and climb the wall directly. The upper wall is excellent and has some...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
10
Y-Front
Slightly eliminate but still worthwhile. Start up Zed Legs but continue direct from the base of the lower ramp to the next...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
11
Corner Buttress
24m. A bold climb which follows the left-hand side of the pedestal.
 E1 5b
12
Memories
The bolted line on the right gives good climbing and keeps going to the last move.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a
13
Boycott
24m. The right-hand side of the pedestal . Unpleasant and loose.
 E1 5b
14
Dutch Moon
Fine technical climbing which is sadly short-lived and escapable. Start up easy rock to gain the wall which is followed on some...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
15
Venus Eruptus
More quality thin climbing sharing a big hold with Dutch Moon on its upper section.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
6c+
16
Black Wedding
A pseudo sport route with 2 bolts and three pegs - still more E5 than 7a though.
 
Technical
Loose
E5 6a
17
Sargasso Sea
Bold climbing up the open black groove. Not very appealing.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E4 5c
18
Saga Lout
A lovely little climb up the left-hand side of the big pillar.
 
1 Stars
6b+
19
Endgame
The right-hand side of the big pillar gives more quality climbing.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
20
Scimitar Groove
The central groove has been cleaned up to give a great pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
21
Pride
20m. Corner left of Memo to Sally.
 E3 5c
22
My Pedigree Chum
The first line of bolts right of the central groove. Friable rock on the last few moves.
 
Loose
6a
23
Scoobs
Very thin and technical climbing on the lower wall leads to a romp up the steeper rock above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
24
Prejudice
The shallow groove gives great climbing leading to a steeper finish past a peg. Lower-off on the right.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
25
Lulu Belle
The direct version of Memo to Sally is quite bold.
 
Fluttery
E4 6a
26
Memo to Sally
A worthwhile route which is better protected than it looks. Climb up a shallow groove then traverse up and left to finish past...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
27
If Dill Was Here
The final bolted line on this section of wall.
 6b
28
Still Searching
Trend up leftwards to gain a long diagonal groove. Follow this to the top.
1 user comment
 E2 5b
29
Beautiful White
Climb direct past some left-facing undercuts to a break. The upper wall has a solitary peg to show the way.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
30
Lower Buttress Route
Climb a crack (peg) to a slim groove. Cross the white wall leftwards to gain a finishing crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
31
At the Edge of Everything
Climb a crack (peg on left) to a bulge and thread. Continue up the crack to a tree.
 E2 5c
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For HIGH TOR

    Memories
    "Perhaps the best route of its grade on Peak Limestone?" 05/May

    Original Route
    "Six years on, I wonder how much that 20kg block is worth now Jon?" 20/Jul top50

    No Entry
    "Backed off the committing hard pull off the ledge as the rock with your first ge..." 01/Jul

    Still Searching
    "Appears that some rock has come off just below the small sapling making it a bit..." 24/Aug

    Dutch Moon
    "Good rock + moves if you stay on line" 27/Jun

    Prejudice
    "This is a great little trad route. I agree care is needed with protection - whic..." 20/Jun

    Robert Brown
    "Did this first back in the early 80's and found the gear very low down and not i..." 15/Dec

    Prejudice
    "The climbing is not difficult but getting solid protection throughout requires ..." 07/Dec

    M1
    "did this a couope of weeks before Andy and agree with his comments. This route ..." 02/Aug

    M1
    "Gear is fine. Insitu gear is rubbish but not needed at all as it is easy to back..." 23/Jul

    Robert Brown
    "Peg in P1 RB replaced, but the shield of rock it's in and which gives the last p..." 10/Jul

    Prejudice
    "Ian is correct." 05/Jul

    Robert Brown
    "The new peg is now loose. It came out easily by hand - I pushed it back in. Is t..." 20/Jun

    Skylight
    "There's a very loose rocking block in the base of the chimney just after the in-..." 03/Jun top50

    The Phrantic Phinish
    "Having eyeballed this line over the years when abbing from the debauchery tree, ..." 10/Oct

    Supersonic
    "The pegs in the starting groove are now looking much better now.....replaced 08/..." 21/Sep

    Original Route
    "The tree stump is gone as of today." 16/Aug top50

    Darius
    "there's now some tat by the old bolt. Whoever thinks this is polished should ..." 26/Jul top50

    Perseus
    "Fantastic route. Going straight up to the overlap without the clipping the peg ..." 12/Oct

    Highlight
    "The black and yellow coloured rock on the right side of the route immediately ab..." 13/Sep top50

    M1
    "absolutely brilliant route, better climbed as a single pitch as the in-situ bela..." 08/Aug

    Search for comments