Gumshoe Area

Adjacent Areas
< The Loaf and Cheese  |  The Lower Tier >

Trad
Morning sun
Level
3 mins

This is probably the most popular section of the cliff; close to the parking, a classic jamming crack and some lower-grade juggy fare just a little further to the right. Guidebook page 93.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Masochism
10m. The two-tiered crack is an almighty thrash - enjoy!
5 user comments
 
Strong
HVS 5b
2
T'rival Traverse
8m. Teeter leftwards along a scoop (runners up and right) passing a flake to a tricky mantelshelf finale.
 
Technical
E2 6a
3
Rock Trivia
6m. The wall on the right is climbed desperately, though fortunately a high side runner is available, largely removing the...
 
Technical
E2 6c
4
Trivial Traverse
10m. Skip along the high break. Trivial indeed, but still fun!
1 user comment
 HVS 5a
5
Sneeze
8m. The left-hand arete of the next face leads to a thin crack.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
6
The Crank
8m. Crank on those classic jams up the handle-shaped crack to a trickier finish. Short but oh so sweet, and 5a for wall-rats!
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
7
Ultimate Sculpture
8m. A solo up the arete right of The Crank. Has not been re-led since the demise of some pebbles a few years ago, though the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E8 7a
8
Chockstone Chimney
8m. The tricky rift has the expected eponymous feature.
1 user comment
 VD
9
Maximum Hype
10m. The tilted rib that hangs over the chimney is approached from it and is taken right and left, usually at speed.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
10
Gumshoe
14m. Excellent climbing up the middle of the face, being steep and stretchy although with plenty of buckets to swing about...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
11
Wine Gums
14m. Follow Gumshoe to above its crux then climb rightwards up the leaning wall with considerable difficulty.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6a
12
Tally Not
14m. Climb a series of steep grooves up the right-hand side of the steepest part of the face. Perhaps it should have been...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5c
13
Battle of the Bulge
10m. The bulging crack is jammed, battled and bridged.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
14
The Cannon
12m. A steep pushy start gains a groove and this leads to the projecting snout of 'the cannon' which is passed with difficulty.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
15
Torture
12m. Direct through the stacked roofs. Strenuous and reachy.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E4 5c
16
Whilly's Whopper
12m. Enter a shallow groove from the right and trend left up the slab passing a bell-shaped flake near the top.
1 user comment
 VS 4c
17
Phallic Crack
12m. Classic. The steep central crack line is climbed passing the phallus early on then continue up the widening crack.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
S 4a
18
Alcatraz
12m. Climb the groove to a roof then make bold moves out right to enter and climb the crack on better holds.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
19
Juan Cur
14m. The leaning prow is bold and strenuous although there is protection from Friends and a large Hex in the slot. Originally...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
20
The Untouchable
12m. The steep crack in the left wall of the angular groove is reached via an 'expando-flake' and gives quality (though tough...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
21
Corner Crack
8m. The groove on the right is an awkward customer.
1 user comment
 S 4a
22
The Rippler
8m. Teeter up the crinkly wall to a ledge and use a couple of chipadedoodahs to finish. A Direct Start is 6a.
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
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  • Latest Comments

    For RAMSHAW

    Never, Never Land
    "In fact, Master's Edge, a middle of the road E7 is far, far harder. NNL should b..." 05/Feb

    Creep, Leap, Creep, Creep
    "This is the arete left (not right) of The Wriggler." 10/Aug

    Loaf and Cheese
    "Please tell me something has broken off the initial groove - its desperate !" 09/Aug

    Gumshoe
    "Did this on the 13th April. A Large cam (Camelot 4) goes nicely in the pocket an..." 14/Apr

    Gumshoe
    "Backed off this April 2010 as gear slots at the ledge are now sandy holes - very..." 12/Apr

    Imposition
    "Some burly fist-jamming to get round the slight bulge at the start. Felt 5c to m..." 15/Aug

    Electric Savage
    "Two very good and contrasting pitches. The first is more like 6a and the second ..." 26/Jun

    Juan Cur
    "Was originally protected by a large piece of wood 1 x 2 x 2 foot found in someon..." 12/May

    Rubber Crack
    "I don't think this gets done very often. Hard at start and at finish." 21/Apr

    Louie Groove
    "Did this a couple year ago. Agree that its easy for the grade. Hardest moves pro..." 29/Sep

    Magic Roundabout
    "Brialliant route, bomber cams, though too short to get 3 stars." 09/Aug

    Alcatraz
    "More balancy than bold. The final crag is a but wide but easy enough." 23/Jun

    Gumshoe
    "Visited last night and the crux protection is looking extremely worn - no nut pr..." 16/May

    Electric Savage
    "Has anyone done this, the top pitch that is?" 02/Jan

    Great Scene Baby
    "The topo shown for this in the guide book is different to that in the Staffs gri..." 12/Sep

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