Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
Level
3 minsWindy
This is probably the most popular section of the cliff; close to the parking, a classic jamming crack and some lower-grade juggy fare just a little further to the right. Guidebook page 93.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Masochism 10m. The two-tiered crack is an almighty thrash - enjoy! 5 user comments | Strong | HVS 5b |
2 |
T'rival Traverse 8m. Teeter leftwards along a scoop (runners up and right) passing a flake to a tricky mantelshelf finale. | Technical | E2 6a |
3 |
Rock Trivia 6m. The wall on the right is climbed desperately, though fortunately a high side runner is available, largely removing the... | Technical | E2 6c |
4 |
Trivial Traverse 10m. Skip along the high break. Trivial indeed, but still fun! 1 user comment | HVS 5a | |
5 |
Sneeze 8m. The left-hand arete of the next face leads to a thin crack. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5b |
6 |
The Crank 8m. Crank on those classic jams up the handle-shaped crack to a trickier finish. Short but oh so sweet, and 5a for wall-rats! 8 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
7 |
Ultimate Sculpture 8m. A solo up the arete right of The Crank. Has not been re-led since the demise of some pebbles a few years ago, though the... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E8 7a |
8 |
Chockstone Chimney 8m. The tricky rift has the expected eponymous feature. 1 user comment | VD | |
9 |
Maximum Hype 10m. The tilted rib that hangs over the chimney is approached from it and is taken right and left, usually at speed. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
10 |
Gumshoe 14m. Excellent climbing up the middle of the face, being steep and stretchy although with plenty of buckets to swing about... 10 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
11 |
Wine Gums 14m. Follow Gumshoe to above its crux then climb rightwards up the leaning wall with considerable difficulty. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6a |
12 |
Tally Not 14m. Climb a series of steep grooves up the right-hand side of the steepest part of the face. Perhaps it should have been... | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5c |
13 |
Battle of the Bulge 10m. The bulging crack is jammed, battled and bridged. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4b |
14 |
The Cannon 12m. A steep pushy start gains a groove and this leads to the projecting snout of 'the cannon' which is passed with difficulty. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 4c |
15 |
Torture 12m. Direct through the stacked roofs. Strenuous and reachy. | 1 Stars Reachy Pumpy | E4 5c |
16 |
Whilly's Whopper 12m. Enter a shallow groove from the right and trend left up the slab passing a bell-shaped flake near the top. 1 user comment | VS 4c | |
17 |
Phallic Crack 12m. Classic. The steep central crack line is climbed passing the phallus early on then continue up the widening crack. 2 user comments | 3 Stars | S 4a |
18 |
Alcatraz 12m. Climb the groove to a roof then make bold moves out right to enter and climb the crack on better holds. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
19 |
Juan Cur 14m. The leaning prow is bold and strenuous although there is protection from Friends and a large Hex in the slot. Originally... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
20 |
The Untouchable 12m. The steep crack in the left wall of the angular groove is reached via an 'expando-flake' and gives quality (though tough... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
21 |
Corner Crack 8m. The groove on the right is an awkward customer. 1 user comment | S 4a | |
22 |
The Rippler 8m. Teeter up the crinkly wall to a ledge and use a couple of chipadedoodahs to finish. A Direct Start is 6a. | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
