Magic Roundabout

Adjacent Areas
< Flaky Buttress  |  Foord's Folly Area >

Trad
Morning sun
Uphill
7 mins

A pleasant and popular slab and below it a short face with three neglected but worthwhile crack climbs. Always quiet. Guidebook page 99.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Crystal Tipps
8m. Stride onto the slab from the left and climb to and up the elegant curving flake that hangs above its left edge.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
2
The Ultra Direct
8m. Scratch a way onto the slab then climb rightwards to a finish over the narrowing overlap that caps the wall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 6b
3
Magic Roundabout Super Direct
8m. Layback up the flake that splits the overhang then step right to climb the slab, finishing as for Magic Roundabout.
 
1 Stars
E1 5c
4
Magic Roundabout Direct
8m. Climb the delicate scoop then move right and follow the green streak boldly to reach easier ground.
 
1 Stars
HVS 4c
5
Magic Roundabout
10m. Start at an alcove then 'walk' precariously up the thin ramp to reach the black flake above the centre of the face.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4a
6
The Delectable Deviation
10m. Foot traverse the handholds of the regular Magic Roundabout to reach the same finish.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
7
Perched Flake
8m. Climb onto the flake on the right and finish up the rib.
 D
8
Be Calmed
6m. The highly technical scoop on the back of the tower.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E2 6c
9
Force Nine
8m. The pebbly slab direct is harrowing even on a calm day.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6c
10
Port Crack
8m. Enter the crack by bridging an awkward groove, or by a traverse from the left, then follow it pleasantly.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
11
Time Out
8m. The central seam is hard where it fades. Stretch up and right to finish up a second shorter crack.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E2 5c
12
Starboard Crack
8m. The right-hand crack is short, sharp and 'ard, with difficulties concentrated in passing the bulge at one third height.
1 user comment
 E1 5b
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For RAMSHAW

    Never, Never Land
    "In fact, Master's Edge, a middle of the road E7 is far, far harder. NNL should b..." 05/Feb

    Creep, Leap, Creep, Creep
    "This is the arete left (not right) of The Wriggler." 10/Aug

    Loaf and Cheese
    "Please tell me something has broken off the initial groove - its desperate !" 09/Aug

    Gumshoe
    "Did this on the 13th April. A Large cam (Camelot 4) goes nicely in the pocket an..." 14/Apr

    Gumshoe
    "Backed off this April 2010 as gear slots at the ledge are now sandy holes - very..." 12/Apr

    Imposition
    "Some burly fist-jamming to get round the slight bulge at the start. Felt 5c to m..." 15/Aug

    Electric Savage
    "Two very good and contrasting pitches. The first is more like 6a and the second ..." 26/Jun

    Juan Cur
    "Was originally protected by a large piece of wood 1 x 2 x 2 foot found in someon..." 12/May

    Rubber Crack
    "I don't think this gets done very often. Hard at start and at finish." 21/Apr

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