Foord's Folly Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
Uphill
10 mins

The final few buttresses appear to offer little more than steep bouldering until you stand underneath them. The Crippler gives an excellent steep HVS while Foord’s Folly is a classic thin finger-jamming exercise, and there are other quality outings. Guidebook page 100.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Big Richard
10m. Climb onto a tooth (sling runner) then continue up a wide crack and the juggy wall.
 S 4a
2
The Proboscid
10m. Follow Big Richard to the ledge then move right and layback the flying 'nose'.
 
Fluttery
HVS 4c
3
The Crippler
12m. Excellent juggy climbing. Follow the diagonal overlap leftward strenuously then pull over and sprint up a short flake.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
4
Escape
10m. Swing onto the wall and climb it with difficulty. Avoiding the chimney just to the right also proves to be rather tricky.
 E1 5b
5
Mantrap
8m. The awkward chimney is hard work.
 HVD
6
Great Scene Baby
10m. Traverse right to reach the crack (or do it direct at 5b) which leads to a good steep finish over the nose.
1 user comment
 S 4a
7
Groovy Baby
10m. The next groove is technical (for that read awkward) to access but much easier and more pleasant above.
 HS 4b
8
Pile Driver
16m. Start as for Groovy Baby but move right to climb a groove then move right again and scale the left-hand side of the prow...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
9
The Press
16m. Climb Pile Driver but stay low until it is possible to enter the steep crack that runs up the right-hand side of the prow....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
10
Night of Lust
14m. Climb the bulge (great boulder problem - V5) then continue up the wall to the right of the final arete.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6b
11
Curfew
12m. The leaning groove is best entered by a swift 'barn-door' layback. Once established, it eases with height.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
12
Foord's Folly
10m. The superb crack and groove are usually soloed as stopping to place gear is such hard work and may make it E2.
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E1 6a
13
The Swinger
12m. Swing up and left using the diagonal breaks to a good rest before finishing up the steep and exposed arete.
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
14
Slow Hand Clap
8m. The centre of the wall up and left from the overhang.
 E2 5c
15
Modesty Crack
8m. Climb the crack left of the overhang trending right to finish.
 D
16
The Brag
8m. The slab just left of the overhang is harder than it looks. Follow the crack leftwards to finish.
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
17
Shark's Fin
6m. The flake that crosses the overhang is great training for the bigger Ramshaw routes, and one or two at the Roaches! The...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HS 5a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For RAMSHAW

    Never, Never Land
    "In fact, Master's Edge, a middle of the road E7 is far, far harder. NNL should b..." 05/Feb

    Creep, Leap, Creep, Creep
    "This is the arete left (not right) of The Wriggler." 10/Aug

    Loaf and Cheese
    "Please tell me something has broken off the initial groove - its desperate !" 09/Aug

    Gumshoe
    "Did this on the 13th April. A Large cam (Camelot 4) goes nicely in the pocket an..." 14/Apr

    Gumshoe
    "Backed off this April 2010 as gear slots at the ledge are now sandy holes - very..." 12/Apr

    Imposition
    "Some burly fist-jamming to get round the slight bulge at the start. Felt 5c to m..." 15/Aug

    Electric Savage
    "Two very good and contrasting pitches. The first is more like 6a and the second ..." 26/Jun

    Juan Cur
    "Was originally protected by a large piece of wood 1 x 2 x 2 foot found in someon..." 12/May

    Rubber Crack
    "I don't think this gets done very often. Hard at start and at finish." 21/Apr

    Louie Groove
    "Did this a couple year ago. Agree that its easy for the grade. Hardest moves pro..." 29/Sep

    Magic Roundabout
    "Brialliant route, bomber cams, though too short to get 3 stars." 09/Aug

    Alcatraz
    "More balancy than bold. The final crag is a but wide but easy enough." 23/Jun

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