Paradise Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Pegasus Wall Area  |  Millsom's Minion >

Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

A popular area with a good collection of routes in the Orange Spot zone, including some classic cracks and a couple of testing wall pitches. Add the closeness of Millsomís Minion and you have a prime venue.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Paradise Lost
Lost? Not really, it is the longish crack tucked round left of the arete and starting from a small alcove. Beware loose rock.
 
Loose
D
2
Parasite
Climb the tiny square groove in the arete then step out right and climb the narrow wall crossing a small overhang.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
3
Paradise Arete
Up the flake-crack that starts 2m right of the arete, to its end. Shuffle up and left to a ledge then climb the arete....
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
4
Paradise Wall
Excellent stuff. Starting from left or right, climb the parallel cracks until they become one, then take the continuation to...
17 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
5
Milton's Meander
Devious and worthwhile. Climb Paradise Wall to just below where the right-hand crack ends, then traverse right all the way to...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
6
Comet
A contrived start with easily placed side-runner up the pockets, leads rapidly to easier climbing above.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
7
Comus
The right-hand line of pockets in the face is bold to start involving fierce fingery climbing. The upper section is a little...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
8
Paradise Crack
The crack is wide, sustained and has tricky finish. Big gear will be needed to back up the loose chockstones.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HVD 4a
9
Sand Gully
The main groove. Start to the left of a flake and climb the groove to a bilberry ledge. Continue using any combination of the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
10
Quartz
This follows the shallow scoop in the slab left of Silica, gained by a short wide crack - delicate and poorly protected. A...
 
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 5a
11
Silica
Next is a thin flake in an undercut slab. Gain the slab by using the flake (wires) and then continue precariously up the flake...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
12
Sand Crack
Just to the right is a crack in a corner. Climb this by bridging to finish up a pleasant groove. Not normally especially sandy.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Crescent Groovelet
    "Changed from V1 5b * to V2 5c *, no votes" 21/Jan

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

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