Paradise Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Pegasus Wall Area  |  Millsom's Minion >

Trad
Early morning sun
14 mins
Uphill
Windy

A very popular area with a good collection of mid-grade routes including some classic cracks and a couple of testing wall pitches. Add the closeness of Millsom's Minion and you have a prime venue.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Paradise Lost
Lost? Not really - it is the longish crack tucked round left of the arete and starting from a small alcove. Beware loose rock.
1 user comment
 
Loose
D
2
Parasite
Climb the tiny square groove in the arete then step out right and climb the narrow wall crossing a small overhang.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
3
Paradise Arete
Up the flake-crack that starts 2m right of the arete, to its end. Shuffle up and left to a ledge then climb the arete....
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
4
Paradise Wall
Excellent stuff. Starting from left or right, climb the parallel cracks until they become one, then take the continuation to...
17 user comments
 
3 Stars
HS
5
Milton's Meander
Devious and worthwhile. Climb Paradise Wall to just below where the right-hand crack ends, then traverse right all the way to...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
6
Comet
A contrived start with (easily placed side-runner up the pockets), leads rapidly to easier climbing above.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E3
7
Comus
The right-hand line of pockets in the face is bold to start involving fierce fingery climbing. The upper section is a little...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E4
8
Paradise Crack
The crack is wide, sustained and has tricky finish. Big gear will be needed to back up the loose chockstones.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HVD
9
Sand Gully
The main groove. Start to the left of a flake and climb the groove to a bilberry ledge. Continue using any combination of the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
10
Quartz
This follows the shallow scoop in the slab left of Silica, gained by a short wide crack - delicate and poorly protected. A...
1 user comment
 HVS
11
Silica
Next is a thin flake in an undercut slab. Gain the slab by using the flake (wires) and then continue precariously up the flake...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3
12
Sand Crack
Just to the right is a crack in a corner. Climb this by bridging to finish up a pleasant groove. Not normally especially sandy.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS