Paradise Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Pegasus Wall Area  |  Millsom's Minion >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 mins

A popular area with a good collection of routes in the Orange Spot zone, including some classic cracks and a couple of testing wall pitches. Add the closeness of Millsomís Minion and you have a prime venue. Guidebook page 145.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Parasite
12m. Climb the tiny square groove in the arete then step out right and climb the narrow wall crossing a small overhang.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
2
Paradise Arete
14m. Up the flake-crack, that starts 2m right of the arete, to its end. Shuffle awkwardly left to a ledge then climb the arete.
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
3
Paradise Wall
14m. Excellent. Climb the parallel cracks until they become one, then take the continuation to the top. A well protected and a...
17 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
4
Milton's Meander
18m. Devious and worthwhile. Climb Paradise Wall to just below where the right-hand crack ends, then traverse right all the way...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
5
Comet
14m. A rather contrived start (and easily placed side-runner) up the pockets, leads rapidly to better and easier climbing...
3 user comments
 E3 5c
6
Comus
14m. The right-hand line of pockets in the face is bold to start involving fierce fingery climbing. The upper section is a...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
7
Paradise Crack
14m. The wide crack hidden behind the holly is approached from the right (ouch) and leads to a wide, sustained and tricky...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HVD 4a
8
Sand Gully
10m. The groove to the right of the holly. Start to the left of a flake and climb the groove to a bilberry ledge. Continue...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
9
Silica
12m. To the right is a thin flake in an undercut slab. Gain the slab by using the flake (wires) and then continue precariously...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
10
Sand Crack
14m. Just to the right is a crack in a corner. Climb this by bridging past a holly bush to finish up a pleasant groove. Despite...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

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