Pilgrim's Progress Area

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Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill

A fine set of climbs in the S and HS categories which mostly follow good crack systems. Some of the routes are quite technical for their grade but protection is usually plentiful and easy to place, a good venue for learning the art. Guidebook page 119.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Nithin
12m. The right-hand crack in the recess (awkward) to a ledge and the wide crack on the left. The arete direct is HS 4a.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
2
Flake Crack
12m. Climb a flaky crack in the gully wall to the ledge on the left and continue up the flake with care to a tricky exit.
1 user comment
 HS 4b
3
The Flywalk
10m. The battered cracks in the right wall are worth doing to ledges (not bridging to the opposite wall of the groove is...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
4
The Niche
12m. The niched-crack gives good steep climbing on solid jams. Passing the niche is a little awkward but the gear is good.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
S 4a
5
Niche Arete
12m. Climb the delicate arete with stretchy moves. Protection at the level of the niche is below the crux! Serious for the...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
VS 5a
6
Orm and Cheep
12m. The shallow slanting groove in the side-wall leads to the pocketed face (side-runner) and sprint. No deviations allowed!
4 user comments
 
Technical
Fluttery
E1 6a
7
Studio
12m. Climb the good crack then mantelshelf rightwards (hard but safe) or layback (easier but bolder) then follow the cracks...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HS 4b
8
A.P. Chimney
12m. The wide crack in the groove is 'absolutely perpendicular' and also quite steep. Classic bridging or technical thrutching...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS 4a
9
Pod Crack
10m. Climb the thin cracks past the pod to a final groove.
12 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5b
10
Pitoned Crack
12m. The thin crack is gained from the next route. Once aided and still manages to be a little artificial.
2 user comments
 
Crimpy
HVS 5b
11
Pilgrim's Progress
12m. The steep crack with the odd holds on the arete will test your jamming technique. The groove above has a tricky exit.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
12
Little Pillar
12m. A tough start up twin cracks and an awkward finish.
5 user comments
 VS 4b
13
Ledgeway
12m. Climb the curving crack to a good ledge then climb the wall on the right passing a slanting crack. The arete to the left...
5 user comments
 
Technical
HVS 5a
14
No Name
12m. Climb the tough groove to the right end of the ledge and the easier continuation directly above.
1 user comment
 S 4b
15
Keep Buttress
12m. Climb thin parallel cracks to the protruding square arete and tackle this by the steep groove on the right.
3 user comments
 
Technical
HVS 5a
16
Keep Corner
12m. The groove left of the jutting buttress was popular in antiquity, hence the polish. Awkward but well-protected and a nice...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
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  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

    Combs Climb
    "Avoiding holds in the routes to the left or right is nie-on impossible and would..." 10/Aug

    Slanting Crack
    "Definitely HVD at most." 04/Jun

    Fat Man's Chimney
    "Excellent fun on a day of howling gales & sleet. The most sheltered route on..." 01/Nov

    Keep Arete
    "That explains why I couldn't find any thread on saturday. Managed to get a dodgy..." 02/Oct

    Studio
    "I attempted this in the rain. Clipped into the stuck nut and stuck cam, went up..." 30/Sep

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