Middle Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Sun from mid-morning
1 min
Uphill

An attractive buttress towards the middle of the cliff and split by a series of cracks and with a fine jutting right–hand arete. The classic mini-desperate of Portfolio is found here along with some much pleasanter and much easier routes. Guidebook page 113.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Taller Overhang
8m. The low roof is a short-lived struggle; a beefy pull gains a rest then more of the same - or scuttle off left.
1 user comment
 
Strong
VS 5a
2
Small Wall
6m. After the short technical wall is a ledge and easy ground. Quite polished and substantially harder for the short.
2 user comments
 S 4b
3
The Corner
8m. The corner groove is polished as its lower part is much used as a descent route. Climb it direct.
1 user comment
 M
4
Portfolio
8m. Still one of the hardest routes on the cliff, rumoured to be a Joe Brown offering. Climb to the bulges and pull fiercely...
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
HVS 5b
5
Wall Climb
10m. The parallel cracks and short chimney above would appear to be misnamed though are well worth doing anyway.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
6
Centre Route
10m. Climb the awkward wall past an overlap to a finish up a thin crack. Not well-protected until the upper section.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
7
The Slant Start
10m. From the chimney on the right trend left to the upper section of Centre Route using polished holds.
3 user comments
 HVD
8
Chockstone Chimney
10m. Tackle the widening crack that never gets wide enough to be really worthy of the title 'chimney' The upper section is...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
9
Mississippi Crack
10m. Climb into the good hanging crack in the face to the right and finish up the short groove above. Quite hard for the grade...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
S 4a
10
The Medicine
10m. Scale the stacked overhangs to the left of the arete to a tricky mantelshelf. If you start to struggle always remember...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4a
11
Middle Buttress Arete
10m. Start just left of the arete and climb up to and into a groove which leads to a ledge. Move left and follow the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
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  • Latest Comments

    For WINDGATHER

    Traditional
    "A nice, but committing sequence. It's pretty much all over by the time you want ..." 30/Sep

    Christmas Arete
    "Really two boulder problems separated by a ledge. Good moves though." 09/Aug

    South Buttress Arete Direct
    "Exactly. What's all this about campusing? Were there girls around or something? ..." 15/Aug

    Chockstone Chimney
    "Polish wasn't too bad (certainly no worese than the other popular routes on the ..." 03/May

    Editor's Note
    "well protected? your too low to reach the runner slot by the jug and nothing bel..." 19/Apr

    South Buttress Arete Direct
    "What's all this about campus moves? Is climbing it like an adult cheating?" 28/Aug

    Route 1.5
    "I'd agree with the first comment. I did it as an onsight solo and found it easy...." 03/Apr

    Portfolio
    "As a Western Grit local, this has long been on my list and it didn’t disappoint...." 29/Sep

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