Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 minsWindy
A fine companion to Paradise Wall. Good for HVS to E3 routes offering hard starts on steep pocketed rock with some bold slabs above. The classic Millsom’s Minion is the pick of the routes, though with modern gear its one-time reputation for boldness no longer stands. Guidebook page 146.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Curved Crack 18m. The curving fissure that bounds the left side of the buttress is novel. The start is awkward but the wide leaning section... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Graunchy | S 4b |
2 |
Pot Black 20m. Climb the pocketed wall right of the arete then teeter up the steep slab directly above, making a worrying high step to... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
3 |
Billiard Buttress 20m. A bold line up the left edge side of the buttress. Climb the leaning wall 3m right of the arete and head right to a... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5a |
4 |
Millsom's Minion 22m. A great classic, mild at the grade but thrilling. Start as for Billiard Buttress to the deep break then move right along... 14 user comments | 3 Stars | E1 5b |
5 |
In Off 20m. A worthwhile direct line. From under the left end of the overlap, pull right on pockets and climb boldly to the break.... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
6 |
Back in the Y.M.C.A 16m. Start around the arete. Pull over the overlap and climb the desperate pocketed wall to join and finish up Millsom's... | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6c |
7 |
Cue 22m. Awkward but oddly appealing and popular too. Thrash up the slanting chimney-groove to reach a trough and possible stance.... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | HVS 5b |
8 |
New Balls Please 18m. Climb the arete by a stretch and a mantle to reach the tip of the flake. Finish up the wall just left of the nose. | E1 5b | |
9 |
Help the Young 6m. The leaning pocketed arete; short in stature but not impact! 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6c |
10 |
Left Pool Crack 8m. The left-hand of a pair of cracks. | D | |
11 |
Right Pool Crack 8m. ...and the thrutchier right-hand one. | Graunchy | VD |
12 |
Between the Two 8m. Just to the right of Pool Cracks, above a grassy landing. 2 user comments | HVS 5b | |
13 |
Pool Wall 8m. The rib on the right with a pocketed start. 6 user comments | VS 4c | |