Millsom's Minion

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Early morning sun
14 mins
Uphill
Windy

A fine companion to Paradise Wall. Good for HVS to E3 routes offering hard starts on pockets with some bold slabs above. The classic Millsom's Minion is the pick of the routes although there is much of quality here.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Curved Crack
The curving fissure that bounds the left side of the buttress is novel. The start is awkward but the wide leaning section...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
S
2
Pot Black
Climb the pocketed wall right of the arete then teeter up the steep slab directly above, making a worrying high step to reach a...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2
3
Billiard Buttress
A bold line up the left edge of the buttress. Climb the leaning wall 3m right of the arete and head right to a flange....
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
4
Millsom's Minion
A great classic, mild at the grade but thrilling. Start as for Billiard Buttress to the deep break then move right for 3m. Step...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1
5
In Off
A worthwhile direct line. From under the left end of the overlap, pull right on pockets and climb boldly to the break. Head...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E3
6
Back in the Y.M.C.A
Round the arete, pull over the overlap and climb the desperate pocketed wall to reach Millsom's Minion.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
f7B+
7
Winner Stays On
The arete on its left-hand side.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f7B
8
Cue
Hard work but oddly appealing and popular too. Thrash up the slanting chimney-groove to reach a trough and possible stance....
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
9
New Balls Please
Climb the arete by a stretch and a mantel to reach the tip of the flake. Finish up the wall just left of the nose. Solid at the...
 
1 Stars
E1
10
Help the Young
The leaning pocketed arete is superb. Jump start at this grade. The sit-start is f7C+ and there is even a f8A version if you...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
f7A+
11
Left Pool Crack
The left-hand of a pair of cracks.
1 user comment
 Diff
12
Right Pool Crack
The thrutchy right-hand crack.
 
Graunchy
VD
13
Between the Two
Just to the right of Pool Cracks, (and not between the two) trending left.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
14
Plug
The narrow rib is very eliminate in nature.­
 
Technical
f6C
15
Pool Wall
The rib on the right with a pocketed start.­
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    The Watch-Tower
    "Top roped it, then led it. Solid E2 5b. Be careful out there, this route takes n..." 22/Sep

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

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