Millsom's Minion

Adjacent Areas
< Paradise Wall  |  Pool Wall to Straight Ahead >

Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

A fine companion to Paradise Wall. Good for HVS to E3 routes offering hard starts on steep pocketed rock with some bold slabs above. The classic Millsomís Minion is the pick of the routes, though with modern gear its one-time reputation for boldness no longer stands.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Curved Crack
The curving fissure that bounds the left side of the buttress is novel. The start is awkward but the wide leaning section...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
Graunchy
S 4b
2
Pot Black
Climb the pocketed wall right of the arete then teeter up the steep slab directly above, making a worrying high step to reach a...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
3
Billiard Buttress
A bold line up the left edge of the buttress. Climb the leaning wall 3m right of the arete and head right to a flange....
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
4
Millsom's Minion
A great classic, mild at the grade but thrilling. Start as for Billiard Buttress to the deep break then move right for 3m. Step...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1 5b
5
In Off
A worthwhile direct line. From under the left end of the overlap, pull right on pockets and climb boldly to the break. Head...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
6
Back in the Y.M.C.A
Round the arete, pull over the overlap and climb the desperate pocketed wall to reach Millsom's Minion.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V8 7B+
7
Winner Stays On
The arete on its left-hand side.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V8 7B
8
Cue
Hard work but oddly appealing and popular too. Thrash up the slanting chimney-groove to reach a trough and possible stance....
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS 5b
9
New Balls Please
Climb the arete by a stretch and a mantel to reach the tip of the flake. Finish up the wall just left of the nose. Solid at the...
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Crescent Groovelet
    "Changed from V1 5b * to V2 5c *, no votes" 21/Jan

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

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