Millsom's Minion

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Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

A fine companion to Paradise Wall. Good for HVS to E3 routes offering hard starts on steep pocketed rock with some bold slabs above. The classic Millsomís Minion is the pick of the routes, though with modern gear its one-time reputation for boldness no longer stands. Guidebook page 146.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Curved Crack
18m. The curving fissure that bounds the left side of the buttress is novel. The start is awkward but the wide leaning section...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
S 4b
2
Pot Black
20m. Climb the pocketed wall right of the arete then teeter up the steep slab directly above, making a worrying high step to...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
3
Billiard Buttress
20m. A bold line up the left edge side of the buttress. Climb the leaning wall 3m right of the arete and head right to a...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
4
Millsom's Minion
22m. A great classic, mild at the grade but thrilling. Start as for Billiard Buttress to the deep break then move right along...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1 5b
5
In Off
20m. A worthwhile direct line. From under the left end of the overlap, pull right on pockets and climb boldly to the break....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
6
Back in the Y.M.C.A
16m. Start around the arete. Pull over the overlap and climb the desperate pocketed wall to join and finish up Millsom's...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
7
Cue
22m. Awkward but oddly appealing and popular too. Thrash up the slanting chimney-groove to reach a trough and possible stance....
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS 5b
8
New Balls Please
18m. Climb the arete by a stretch and a mantle to reach the tip of the flake. Finish up the wall just left of the nose.
 E1 5b
9
Help the Young
6m. The leaning pocketed arete; short in stature but not impact!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
10
Left Pool Crack
8m. The left-hand of a pair of cracks.
 D
11
Right Pool Crack
8m. ...and the thrutchier right-hand one.
 
Graunchy
VD
12
Between the Two
8m. Just to the right of Pool Cracks, above a grassy landing.
2 user comments
 HVS 5b
13
Pool Wall
8m. The rib on the right with a pocketed start.
6 user comments
 VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

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    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

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    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

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    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

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