Teck Crack Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill

To the left of the steps is a series of short undercut walls with good (and popular) bouldering and some worthwhile though hard climbs. The tallest buttress left of the steps has a couple of reasonably-graded routes (as long as you like awkward cracks) and more desperate climbing on slopers and pebbles. Further right is an immaculate hanging slab which has one of the hardest and blankest routes in the area.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Apache Dawn
8m. The pebbly wall on the left, starting at the small cigar-shaped pod and scratching a way to a rounded finish. The heather...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6c
2
Catastrophe Internationale Top 50
8m. From the right-hand end of the long elongated slot, climb straight up the steep wall by hard pulls on pebbles and desperate...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6c
3
Slippery Jim
8m. The awkward and often rather green groove is squirmed to a rounded exit. The route is not popular, partly because of where...
2 user comments
 HVS 5b
4
Bareback Rider
8m. Climb the rounded arete on its right-hand side by technical laying away to a grasping exit. Despite the name, an 'a cheval'...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E4 6b
5
Ascent of Man Top 50
10m. A mini-classic, intense and varied, packing a lot of climbing into a short distance. Gain the undercut flake with...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E3 6a
6
Days of Future Passed
10m. The rounded arete leads by laybacking to a tough, though well-protected, mantelshelf finale.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E3 6b
7
The Aspirant
8m. Climb the centre of the left-hand side-wall of the gully, passing a useful flake to an exit on the left.
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
8
Ackit
14m. Follow the right-trending flake by awkward laybacking (good gear is available but it is tricky to place) to bulges, which...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
9
Just For Today
16m. The wall and slab. The crucial huge stretch for a sloper is protected by a side runner in Ackit, placed on route. Finish...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E6 7a
10
Barriers in Time Top 50
16m. The elegant arete is superb but slightly harder for shorties. Make a tricky start to reach the first break then tackle the...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
11
Sunday at Chapel
10m. The steep right-hand side of the arete is bold and slappy to a final crack. A distant side runner in Ackit was used on the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6c
12
Ant Lives
8m. Start by a 'fun' mantelshelf then make a powerful move to the ledge before galloping off rightwards.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
V6 7A
13
Inertia Reel
Attain a small flake and the rounded ledges above from a minute undercut in the low break. Escape right or jump off!
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
V6 7A
14
Teck Crack Direct
Reach the thin crack from the left by hard moves and then a rapid hand-traverse.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
V5 6C
15
The Dignity of Labour
From the right-hand arete, move left to holds and yet another fearsome mantelshelf finish. Virtually a route.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
V5 6C
16
Teck Crack
1) 4a, 10m. Climb the grotty gully and cross the slab leftwards to a stance at the foot of the steep crack. 2) 5c, 14m. Jam and...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5c
17
Lightning Crack
1) 5b, 10m. Quickly gain the thin hanging crack with difficulty and follow it to ledges and a belay. 2) 4c, 15m. The wall on...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5b
18
Pindels Numb
10m. Climb leftwards from the 'welcoming' holly via a finger traverse and pull into the leaning corner with difficulty and...
 
1 Stars
E4 6b
19
Crystal Grazer
10m. Gain the lip of the roof from the diagonal crack on the right then foot traverse left to a shallow groove. Climb the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
20
A Fist Full of Crystals
12m. Follow Crystal Grazer to the groove and balance up this with some trepidation and nothing in the way of gear. Very blind.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
21
Doug
12m. Start as for the last two routes but climb the right-hand edge of the buttress to a delicate finale up a shallow scoop....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
Fluttery
E8 6c
22
K.P. Nuts
10m. A desperate bouldery Nadin route. Safe with a good spotting team and there is some gear in the break for the crux. Start...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E7 6c
23
Ascent of Woman
10m. The right-hand start and direct finish to Ascent of Man goes at about the same grade although it is less popular.
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
24
Teck Crack Super Direct
Gain the thin crack from directly below making a hideous pull on a poor crack and pebbles.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
V7 7A+
25
Inertia Reel Traverse
The well-chalked low-level traverse is a classic. About as pumpy and as rounded as they come.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Rounded
V11 8A
26
Mushin'
The direct start to Pindles Numb is one of the hardest boulder problems in the Peak. Use a glued undercut above the break to...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
V12 8A+
27
Pindles Numb
10m. Climb leftwards from the 'welcoming' holly via a finger traverse and pull into the leaning corner with difficulty. Once...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
28
Fred's Cafe
10m. The right-slanting crack leads awkwardly to an easy slab. Well-protected but a thrash and often choked with pine needles.
 VS 5a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For ROACHES - LOWER

    Valkyrie
    "What hidden foothold? Damn spoilers in these comments had me gripped, but thinki..." 05/Aug top50

    Chalkstorm
    "Many many years ago (20) I led this, it was E3 at the time if I remember correct..." 31/Dec top50

    Sifta's Quid
    "Why oh why would you want to squirm under the boulder. enjoyed the crux though,..." 19/Aug

    Elegy
    "I'd suggest getting someone to brush the top break before going for an onsight. ..." 23/Sep top50

    Valkyrie
    "After years of climbing I finally got to do Valkyrie as there was no queue, thou..." 06/Sep top50

    Raven Rock Gully
    "Climbed right hand wall, possibly off-route, in pouring rain. Amusing in retrosp..." 13/Jun

    Valkyrie
    "hardest way is to lead 1st pitch and 2nd the crux pitch , but alot more enjoyabl..." 24/May top50

    Rhodren
    "Too short by far. Interesting moves all the way. Good runnners." 21/May

    The Roaches Ridge
    "A fun solo, when not too busy." 31/Jul

    Valkyrie
    "No way the first pitch is worth HS 4b anymore. Second pitch is more scary but no..." 02/Jul top50

    Kestrel Crack
    "Nice moves on the left hand start, the middle is a bit nasty and the top thrutch..." 12/Jun

    Flake Chimney
    "great route the grade little protection and quite exposed be carefull on the fla..." 22/Apr

    Choka
    "Don't block the initial crack with friends, there's a very good nut placement av..." 11/Apr

    A Little Peculiar
    "Twice now, Pete Whittakers done it as well." 08/Jan

    Northern Comfort
    "Amazing. It does feel scary though, especially higher up, although the fall out ..." 27/Oct

    Hypothesis
    "With only 1 small wire about 2m below my feet at mid height, I didn't want to fa..." 01/Oct

    Chalkstorm
    "Lead this yesterday onsight. Wasn't going to use the side runner but after I ste..." 26/Aug top50

    Valkyrie Direct
    "I thought the crux was that final wide crack after the traverse from the flake (..." 17/Jul

    Prow Corner
    "Easy, well protected, slab climbing, a great first lead. Take some big stuff for..." 28/Jun

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