Raven Rock Gully Area

Adjacent Areas
< Teck Crack Area  |  Valkyrie Area >

Trad
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill

To the right of the stone steps the Lower Tier thrusts forward. The big names are further right, but the left-hand area is home to many routes which are only marginally less classic. The deep dark rift that splits the buttress has some worthwhile if gloomy climbs from the constricted struggles of the Raven Rock Gully routes to the glorious jamming of Crack of Gloom.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Yong Arete
8m. The scooped arete just to the right of the steps is climbed on well-scratched holds after a precarious start. Delicate and...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S 3c
2
Poisonous Python
8m. Although short-lived, the thin snaking-crack on the front of the buttress has good moves and good runners.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
3
Yong
10m. The mild jamming crack has good hidden layaway holds. Western Grit's answer to Froggatt's renowned Heather Wall.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVD 4a
4
Something Better Change
10m. The centre of the delicate slab on small but improved holds. The exit is very rounded and avoiding the crack to the left...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E2 5b
5
Wisecrack
8m. The steep diagonal crack in the face.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
6
Hypothesis
10m. Small wires protect the delicate left-hand arete.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
7
Destination Earth
12m. The slab is bold and precarious; a side runner (placed on route) may stop you repeating the first ascensionist's bouncing...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6b
8
Cannonball Crack
12m. The wide crack is awkward to start and leads to a leftwards exit over a chockstone. Trivia Question: how many other...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4b
9
Graffiti
16m. Start up the arete and move left to a groove and crack which used to be the Direct Finish to Cannonball Crack before it...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
10
Dorothy's Dilemma
18m. The fine delicate arete is not over endowed with gear and requires commitment and neat footwork. Start on the left, move...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
11
Bengal Buttress
28m. Climb the left arete of the buttress past holes to a ledge then trend right via a grassy ledge to the right-hand arete. Up...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
12
Schoolies
20m. Good bold climbing though escapable. Climb the bulges (reachy) then straight up the centre of the face to the final crack...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
E3 5c
13
Crack of Gloom
20m. The ever-leaning crack in the left-hand side of the gully would be a mega-classic in a more open setting. Here it is...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E1 5b
14
Raven Rock Gully Left-hand
20m. The back of the great rift has a crack/groove in each angle. The long steep groove on the left leads by sustained climbing...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
15
Raven Rock Gully
20m. The deep and gloomy rift to a tight and scruffy exit through the manhole. A worthwhile and atmospheric route that is a lot...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
D
16
Swinger
20m. The steep and neglected crack in the right wall of the gully leads to the upper section of Via Dolorosa.
 VS 4c
17
Sidewinder
24m. A devious oddity that grapples with the left-hand edge of the great roof. From the base of the crack of Swinger, ape right...
 
Strong
E5 6a
18
Via Dolorosa Top 50
32m. A long and wandering trip up the huge buttress. Start below a battered holly and climb very slippery rock (crux) to the...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
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  • Latest Comments

    For ROACHES - LOWER

    Valkyrie
    "What hidden foothold? Damn spoilers in these comments had me gripped, but thinki..." 05/Aug top50

    Chalkstorm
    "Many many years ago (20) I led this, it was E3 at the time if I remember correct..." 31/Dec top50

    Sifta's Quid
    "Why oh why would you want to squirm under the boulder. enjoyed the crux though,..." 19/Aug

    Elegy
    "I'd suggest getting someone to brush the top break before going for an onsight. ..." 23/Sep top50

    Valkyrie
    "After years of climbing I finally got to do Valkyrie as there was no queue, thou..." 06/Sep top50

    Raven Rock Gully
    "Climbed right hand wall, possibly off-route, in pouring rain. Amusing in retrosp..." 13/Jun

    Valkyrie
    "hardest way is to lead 1st pitch and 2nd the crux pitch , but alot more enjoyabl..." 24/May top50

    Rhodren
    "Too short by far. Interesting moves all the way. Good runnners." 21/May

    The Roaches Ridge
    "A fun solo, when not too busy." 31/Jul

    Valkyrie
    "No way the first pitch is worth HS 4b anymore. Second pitch is more scary but no..." 02/Jul top50

    Kestrel Crack
    "Nice moves on the left hand start, the middle is a bit nasty and the top thrutch..." 12/Jun

    Flake Chimney
    "great route the grade little protection and quite exposed be carefull on the fla..." 22/Apr

    Choka
    "Don't block the initial crack with friends, there's a very good nut placement av..." 11/Apr

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