Elegy Area

Adjacent Areas
< Valkyrie Area  |  Chalkstorm Area >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
5 mins

The next section has some classic crack climbs but is nowadays better known for its superb collection of slab climbs. Technical in all cases and bold in most, you are unlikely to have to queue for these particular gems. Further right is the magnificent slab of Elegy to get the heart pounding and a selection of awkward and arduous crack climbs. Guidebook page 54.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Eugene's Axe
20m. Climb the rounded arete from a big flake to steeper rock then take the wall above, left then right, then finally left...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E2 5c
2
Pebbledash
1) 5a, 10m. Head up the groove to steep rock then pad left at the limit of HVS friction and move left to a stance in the...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
3
Secrets of Dance
20m. Follow the groove of Pebbledash then climb the disappearing crack in the steep wall until a right-trending ramp can be...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E4 6a
4
Against the Grain
20m. Intense. Climb the easy flake and thin curving crack to where it withers then move left and climb the wall on tiny holds...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E6 7a
5
Thing on a Spring
20m. Another desperate route up the wall above the traverse of The Swan with a safe fall-out zone beneath very hard wall...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E6 7a
6
Up the Swanee
22m. Grippingly precarious, especially for the tall. From runners in the thin crack teeter rightwards along the highest break...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E4 5c
7
The Swan
26m. An elegant pitch requiring commitment on the traverse. Climb thin cracks to where they fade, place a high runner, then...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E3 5c
8
Swan Bank
20m. Start up The Mincer to below the roof then step left to a flake and make bold and stretchy moves up to the end of the...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E4 5c
9
The Mincer
24m. Boulder up into the hanging groove then mince rightwards awkwardly (especially if you're long-legged) to pass the nose and...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
10
Smear Test Top 50
12m. Approach via the hanging groove (actually Mincer Direct) then from a chockstone runner - or belay - sketch right across...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E3 6a
11
Pincer
20m. Climb the short steep wall (bouldery crux) to a rest below the bulges then move rightwards to the shrubby gully. Up this...
16 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
12
Kicking Bird
20m. Good but devious, and hard! Pull through the bulge then cross the overhang by baffling moves to access the base of the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
13
Bloodstone
18m. Avoids the loop on the previous climb by a direct ascent of the desperate slab which eases with height. Kit under the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E5 6b
14
Bloodspeed
18m. Start as for Kicking Bird, pull through the overlap then climb the slab to the right to the base of the thin crack on...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Rounded
E6 6b
15
Guano Gully
14m. The narrowing crack leading to an open groove up and right is a less smelly experience than you might be expecting. Once...
 HS 4b
16
Mousey's Mistake
14m. Climb the right-hand side of the gully to the roof then step out above the overhang and climb the delicate left-hand side...
 
Rounded
E2 5b
17
A Little Peculiar
14m. The direct over the imposing roof features the hardest mantelshelf in the world - a free hanging one-armed flip, with no...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E6 7a
18
Elegy Top 50
16m. Perhaps the best slab route in Western Grit! Climb the awkward overhanging corner to the base of the upper crack and large...
24 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
19
Clive Coolhead
14m. The right-hand side of the Elegy slab is near the limit of friction. Low side runners with keep you on your toes,...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E5 6b
20
The Bulger
14m. The leaning corner (as for Elegy), and the awkward wide crack above, give an unsatisfying struggle. Bridge the lower...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
21
Fledgling's Climb
14m. Starting in the gully,traverse left above the overhang then climb the wall and the well-positioned rib. Not well...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4a
22
Little Chimney
10m. The little chimney in the back left-hand corner of the bay is quite unremarkable but offers a blocky quick tick.
1 user comment
 M
23
Battery Crack
10m. Climb the awkward crack rising from the recess and head into the groove above. A successful ascent will leave you beached...
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
VS 4b
24
Lucas Chimney
10m. The narrow rift in the main angle is a well-protected struggle and the leftward exit is a pig; the best advice is to try...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
25
Hawkwing Top 50
22m. An fine route up an elegant buttress. Start at the left arete then spiral up and right following cracks to the opposite...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1 5b
26
Carrion
18m. Climb the centre of the front face direct, starting over the butch overhang, crossing the diagonal cracks and finishing...
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
27
Kestrel Crack
20m. A well-rounded 'classic' though too much of a struggle to be a real three star outing. The striking hanging fissure has a...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4b
28
Headless Horseman
20m. Climb Kestrel Cracks to the first thread then traverse out to the arete and teeter up this, heart in mouth.
 
Fluttery
E1 5b
29
Logical Progression
20m. The hanging lower arete just right of the Headless Horseman traverse is reached via a very hard traverse from the right to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E7 6c
30
Flimney
18m. The flake and groove passing to the left of the rhododendrons is approached via the gymnastic bulge or flake just right....
 S 4a
31
Fledglings Climb
14m. Starting in the gully, traverse left above the overhang then climb the wall and the well-positioned rib. Not...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For ROACHES - LOWER

    Chalkstorm
    "Many many years ago (20) I led this, it was E3 at the time if I remember correct..." 31/Dec top50

    Sifta's Quid
    "Why oh why would you want to squirm under the boulder. enjoyed the crux though,..." 19/Aug

    Elegy
    "I'd suggest getting someone to brush the top break before going for an onsight. ..." 23/Sep top50

    Valkyrie
    "After years of climbing I finally got to do Valkyrie as there was no queue, thou..." 06/Sep top50

    Raven Rock Gully
    "Climbed right hand wall, possibly off-route, in pouring rain. Amusing in retrosp..." 13/Jun

    Valkyrie
    "hardest way is to lead 1st pitch and 2nd the crux pitch , but alot more enjoyabl..." 24/May top50

    Rhodren
    "Too short by far. Interesting moves all the way. Good runnners." 21/May

    The Roaches Ridge
    "A fun solo, when not too busy." 31/Jul

    Valkyrie
    "No way the first pitch is worth HS 4b anymore. Second pitch is more scary but no..." 02/Jul top50

    Kestrel Crack
    "Nice moves on the left hand start, the middle is a bit nasty and the top thrutch..." 12/Jun

    Flake Chimney
    "great route the grade little protection and quite exposed be carefull on the fla..." 22/Apr

    Choka
    "Don't block the initial crack with friends, there's a very good nut placement av..." 11/Apr

    A Little Peculiar
    "Twice now, Pete Whittakers done it as well." 08/Jan

    Northern Comfort
    "Amazing. It does feel scary though, especially higher up, although the fall out ..." 27/Oct

    Hypothesis
    "With only 1 small wire about 2m below my feet at mid height, I didn't want to fa..." 01/Oct

    Chalkstorm
    "Lead this yesterday onsight. Wasn't going to use the side runner but after I ste..." 26/Aug top50

    Valkyrie Direct
    "I thought the crux was that final wide crack after the traverse from the flake (..." 17/Jul

    Prow Corner
    "Easy, well protected, slab climbing, a great first lead. Take some big stuff for..." 28/Jun

    Valkyrie Direct
    "Which bit are people referring to as the crux? I found the moves through the ro..." 09/Apr

    Poisonous Python
    "i solo this instead of taking the stairs, stairs are for losers" 01/Apr

    The Mincer
    "The spectators enjoyed me suffering. I enjoyed the route once it was over! Hats ..." 17/Feb

    Search for comments