Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
5 minsWindy
The next section has some classic crack climbs but is nowadays better known for its superb collection of slab climbs. Technical in all cases and bold in most, you are unlikely to have to queue for these particular gems. Further right is the magnificent slab of Elegy to get the heart pounding and a selection of awkward and arduous crack climbs. Guidebook page 54.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Eugene's Axe 20m. Climb the rounded arete from a big flake to steeper rock then take the wall above, left then right, then finally left... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded | E2 5c |
2 |
Pebbledash 1) 5a, 10m. Head up the groove to steep rock then pad left at the limit of HVS friction and move left to a stance in the... 8 user comments | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
3 |
Secrets of Dance 20m. Follow the groove of Pebbledash then climb the disappearing crack in the steep wall until a right-trending ramp can be... | 1 Stars Technical Rounded | E4 6a |
4 |
Against the Grain 20m. Intense. Climb the easy flake and thin curving crack to where it withers then move left and climb the wall on tiny holds... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | E6 7a |
5 |
Thing on a Spring 20m. Another desperate route up the wall above the traverse of The Swan with a safe fall-out zone beneath very hard wall... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Rounded | E6 7a |
6 |
Up the Swanee 22m. Grippingly precarious, especially for the tall. From runners in the thin crack teeter rightwards along the highest break... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | E4 5c |
7 |
The Swan 26m. An elegant pitch requiring commitment on the traverse. Climb thin cracks to where they fade, place a high runner, then... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Pumpy | E3 5c |
8 |
Swan Bank 20m. Start up The Mincer to below the roof then step left to a flake and make bold and stretchy moves up to the end of the... | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E4 5c |
9 |
The Mincer 24m. Boulder up into the hanging groove then mince rightwards awkwardly (especially if you're long-legged) to pass the nose and... 18 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
10 |
Smear Test Top 50 12m. Approach via the hanging groove (actually Mincer Direct) then from a chockstone runner - or belay - sketch right across... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Rounded | E3 6a |
11 |
Pincer 20m. Climb the short steep wall (bouldery crux) to a rest below the bulges then move rightwards to the shrubby gully. Up this... 16 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
12 |
Kicking Bird 20m. Good but devious, and hard! Pull through the bulge then cross the overhang by baffling moves to access the base of the... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
13 |
Bloodstone 18m. Avoids the loop on the previous climb by a direct ascent of the desperate slab which eases with height. Kit under the... | 2 Stars Technical Rounded | E5 6b |
14 |
Bloodspeed 18m. Start as for Kicking Bird, pull through the overlap then climb the slab to the right to the base of the thin crack on... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Rounded | E6 6b |
15 |
Guano Gully 14m. The narrowing crack leading to an open groove up and right is a less smelly experience than you might be expecting. Once... | HS 4b | |
16 |
Mousey's Mistake 14m. Climb the right-hand side of the gully to the roof then step out above the overhang and climb the delicate left-hand side... | Rounded | E2 5b |
17 |
A Little Peculiar 14m. The direct over the imposing roof features the hardest mantelshelf in the world - a free hanging one-armed flip, with no... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | E6 7a |
18 |
Elegy Top 50 16m. Perhaps the best slab route in Western Grit! Climb the awkward overhanging corner to the base of the upper crack and large... 24 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | E2 5c |
19 |
Clive Coolhead 14m. The right-hand side of the Elegy slab is near the limit of friction. Low side runners with keep you on your toes,... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | E5 6b |
20 |
The Bulger 14m. The leaning corner (as for Elegy), and the awkward wide crack above, give an unsatisfying struggle. Bridge the lower... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | VS 4c |
21 |
Fledgling's Climb 14m. Starting in the gully,traverse left above the overhang then climb the wall and the well-positioned rib. Not well... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | HS 4a |
22 |
Little Chimney 10m. The little chimney in the back left-hand corner of the bay is quite unremarkable but offers a blocky quick tick. 1 user comment | M | |
23 |
Battery Crack 10m. Climb the awkward crack rising from the recess and head into the groove above. A successful ascent will leave you beached... 1 user comment | Pumpy | VS 4b |
24 |
Lucas Chimney 10m. The narrow rift in the main angle is a well-protected struggle and the leftward exit is a pig; the best advice is to try... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
25 |
Hawkwing Top 50 22m. An fine route up an elegant buttress. Start at the left arete then spiral up and right following cracks to the opposite... 10 user comments | 3 Stars | E1 5b |
26 |
Carrion 18m. Climb the centre of the front face direct, starting over the butch overhang, crossing the diagonal cracks and finishing... | 1 Stars | E3 5c |
27 |
Kestrel Crack 20m. A well-rounded 'classic' though too much of a struggle to be a real three star outing. The striking hanging fissure has a... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Rounded | VS 4b |
28 |
Headless Horseman 20m. Climb Kestrel Cracks to the first thread then traverse out to the arete and teeter up this, heart in mouth. | Fluttery | E1 5b |
29 |
Logical Progression 20m. The hanging lower arete just right of the Headless Horseman traverse is reached via a very hard traverse from the right to... | 2 Stars Technical | E7 6c |
30 |
Flimney 18m. The flake and groove passing to the left of the rhododendrons is approached via the gymnastic bulge or flake just right.... | S 4a | |
31 |
Fledglings Climb 14m. Starting in the gully, traverse left above the overhang then climb the wall and the well-positioned rib. Not... 8 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
