Chalkstorm Area

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
5 mins

Sadly the very popular easy routes here have been rather battered to death by never-ending top-roping sessions, simply because they are so close to the road. Chalk Storm is everyone's favourite E4 (or is it E3?). Further left is the significantly less-popular Death Knell Area, and to the right are the magnificent slab routes around Thin Air. Guidebook page 56.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Amaranth
12m. Climb the blunt arete (as for Death Knell) and step left onto the slab and balance carefully up this, avoiding the shrubs.
 
Fluttery
E4 5c
2
Death Knell
14m. A classic frightener. Climb the blunt rib above the rhododendrons delicately to the bulges and make committing moves up...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
3
Rhodren
12m. A mini-Mincer and popular, though this one is easier for the tall. From the foot of the odd perched flake, climb the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
4
Flake Chimney
14m. Traverse the crest of the huge perched flake (walk across or ride it - the choice is yours) to reach an easy groove....
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
5
Straight Crack
10m. Bridge the leaning corner (don't push too hard on the flake) and then step left to reach the eponymous fissure, thankfully...
2 user comments
 HS 4a
6
Punch
14m. Force a way into the hanging groove with great difficulty (overhead gear) then finish more easily through the shrubbery.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6b
7
Choka
12m. Pull through the roof using the thin crack and continue up its wider extension.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5c
8
Circuit Breaker
10m. Climb the fingery, bulging arete then the flake above to the final delicate slab perched on the front of the buttress.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E3 6a
9
Hunky Dory
10m. The thin twisting cracks in the side-wall give a technical and sustained pitch to a good rest which gives you time to...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3 6a
10
Prow Corner
12m. The awkward corner in the left-hand edge of the recess is worthwhile. Avoid stepping right if you want the full tick.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
11
Micro-Storm
14m. The squeezed in slab with a side runner.
1 user comment
 E1 5c
12
Chalkstorm Top 50
14m. The slab has thin unprotected moves to pass the overlap. It is often climbed with a side runner (E1 to HVS depending where...
38 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 5c
13
Prow Cracks
10m. Climb the left-hand crack then transfer right at the level of the bulges. An excellent introduction to jamming.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VD
14
Commander Energy Top 50
12m. The flying fin is approached up the bulging arete. Hand-traverse a flange out left then rock onto it and layback smartly,...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
15
Rocking Stone Gully
8m. The groove with wobbly chockstones is short-lived. If you are feeling technical, elegant semi-laybacking can avoid the...
2 user comments
 HVD
16
Captain Lethargy
8m. The crack in the slab, trending left where it finishes. Packs a punch for its diminutive size and requires confident...
7 user comments
 HVD
17
Sifta's Quid
10m. The tricky bulging crack-line was named after a bet that the crag was worked out; well it wasn't then and it isn't now!
15 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
18
Obsession Fatale
10m. The ultra-sketchy slab left of Piece Of Mind is easy (ish) on a top-rope, but a mighty-bold solo. Some say it is only E7...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E8 6c
19
Piece of Mind Top 50
12m. The unprotected blunt rib with the crux at the top was an astounding ascent before sticky rubber and remains a bold and...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
20
Thin Air Top 50
10m. Heart-stoppingly precarious! The crescent-shaped ramp is gained by a hard rock-over. Once established pad carefully up and...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
21
The Roaches Ridge
70m. Popular with Outdoor Centres and their lines of penguins, the long rambling ridge at the right-hand end of the cliff gives...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
D 3a
22
The Super Girdle
44m. Follow the Swan to the Mincer, cross Smear Test, then step down and traverse the Elegy slab to finish up The Bulger -...
 
3 Stars
E4 6a
23
Prow Corner Twin Cracks
12m. The twin cracks just right are trickiest at the overlap. Surprisingly popular, especially with Outdoor Centres.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVD
24
Prow Cracks Variations
10m. The obvious counter-diagonal is also well worth doing and is just a touch harder, especially the final wide section.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
25
Sifta's Quid Inside Route
10m. Interesting; this variation avoids the crux of the regular route by some speleological lunacy. Climb towards the slot...
 S 3a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For ROACHES - LOWER

    Chalkstorm
    "Many many years ago (20) I led this, it was E3 at the time if I remember correct..." 31/Dec top50

    Sifta's Quid
    "Why oh why would you want to squirm under the boulder. enjoyed the crux though,..." 19/Aug

    Elegy
    "I'd suggest getting someone to brush the top break before going for an onsight. ..." 23/Sep top50

    Valkyrie
    "After years of climbing I finally got to do Valkyrie as there was no queue, thou..." 06/Sep top50

    Raven Rock Gully
    "Climbed right hand wall, possibly off-route, in pouring rain. Amusing in retrosp..." 13/Jun

    Valkyrie
    "hardest way is to lead 1st pitch and 2nd the crux pitch , but alot more enjoyabl..." 24/May top50

    Rhodren
    "Too short by far. Interesting moves all the way. Good runnners." 21/May

    The Roaches Ridge
    "A fun solo, when not too busy." 31/Jul

    Valkyrie
    "No way the first pitch is worth HS 4b anymore. Second pitch is more scary but no..." 02/Jul top50

    Kestrel Crack
    "Nice moves on the left hand start, the middle is a bit nasty and the top thrutch..." 12/Jun

    Flake Chimney
    "great route the grade little protection and quite exposed be carefull on the fla..." 22/Apr

    Choka
    "Don't block the initial crack with friends, there's a very good nut placement av..." 11/Apr

    A Little Peculiar
    "Twice now, Pete Whittakers done it as well." 08/Jan

    Northern Comfort
    "Amazing. It does feel scary though, especially higher up, although the fall out ..." 27/Oct

    Hypothesis
    "With only 1 small wire about 2m below my feet at mid height, I didn't want to fa..." 01/Oct

    Chalkstorm
    "Lead this yesterday onsight. Wasn't going to use the side runner but after I ste..." 26/Aug top50

    Valkyrie Direct
    "I thought the crux was that final wide crack after the traverse from the flake (..." 17/Jul

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