Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 minsWindy
The far left-hand side of the Upper Tier has a couple of contrasting venues, the popular and battered slab hidden on the far left, the great jutting flat roof of Simpkins' Overhang and then the even larger roof of Wombat. The easier routes here are popular, and although not quite of the quality of the climbs to either side of The Sloth, they are still excellent and the area tends to be quieter. Guidebook page 60.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Rooster 12m. Climb straight up the unprotected face to a ledge then continue up a mild jamming crack above. 7 user comments | 1 Stars | VD |
2 |
Chicken Run 12m. From blocks below the slab, trend right to a slot then climb straight up (well-polished chips!) to a good ledge. Start on... 5 user comments | 1 Stars | HVD |
3 |
Fern Crack Top 50 18m. Excellent. A boulder problem start gains the crack right of the arete, then follow this (thread) to a ledge on the left -... 23 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | S 4b |
4 |
Demon Wall 1) 4b, 10m. Climb into the hanging groove on the right passing a bulge early on, to a stance out right. Scary but less so... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | VS 5a |
5 |
Perverted Staircase 12m. Climb the fearsome crack through the left-hand side of the roof by gymnastic manoeuvres to reach easier ground. 2 user comments | VS 5a | |
6 |
Simpkin's Overhang 14m. Approach the roof with trepidation then follow the main flake rightwards to the lip and a difficult final move to sensibly... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Fluttery | E4 5b |
7 |
Inverted Staircase Top 50 1) 14m. Climb the pocketed wall left then right into the groove to the right of the big roof and follow this to a leftward exit... 7 user comments | 3 Stars | D |
8 |
The Tower of Bizarre Delights 10m. Steep and imposing. Climb directly to the ledge above the first pitch of Inverted Staircase then continue boldly up to the... | 1 Stars | E3 5c |
9 |
The Sublime 16m. Climb the arete up and right to bulges then pull powerfully leftwards through these and climb the leaning rib above. | 1 Stars | E2 5b |
10 |
Crenation 16m. Follow The Sublime to the bulges, swing right around the arte and climb the juggy wall. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E1 5a |
11 |
Heather Slab 16m. The once heathery slab that forms the back of the recess is followed directly and is worryingly difficult to protect,... 7 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | S 3c |
12 |
Capitol Climb 20m. A worthwhile climb. Get into the hanging groove and exit right below the overhang to reach a short crack that leads to... 4 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4a |
13 |
Wombat 20m. A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though not especially technical. Climb the wall to a thread then traverse... 12 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E2 5b |
14 |
Live Bait 20m. Climb the wall using a small flake, skip right to the block then cross the roof leftwards with hard moves to pass the lip.... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
15 |
West's Wallaby 24m. Climb the awkward diagonal crack to the huge block tucked under the roof, then hand-traverse this (it's OK, the thing is... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
16 |
Walleroo 20m. Start up West's Wallaby then from the right-hand edge of the jammed block climb leftwards on small flakes to difficult... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | E2 5c |
17 |
Wallaby Direct 20m. Follow West's Wallaby to the middle of its traverse then climb steeply to an improving crack and easier ground. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
18 |
Late Night Final 20m. The undercut chimney that bounds the buttress on the right (thread) can be a tortuous struggle - how good is your... 1 user comment | S 4a | |
19 |
The Valve 16m. Climb the arete on the left then the right wall via a ramp, finishing back left on the crest. Exposed and... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
20 |
Beckermet Slab 14m. Mild but bold. Bridge up the gully then hand-traverse out left (crux - very hard for the short) to gain the front face... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | S 4b |
21 |
Maud's Garden Top 50 1) 4a, 14m. Balance up the crux slab then follow the crack to a stance below the bulges. 2) 8m. Move right and squirm up the... 10 user comments | 3 Stars | S 4a |
22 |
Contrary Mary 16m Climb through a notch in the overhang then continue up the front of the buttress to a ledge. Above this the climbing is... 5 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4b |
