Wombat Area

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Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

The far left-hand side of the Upper Tier has a couple of contrasting venues, the popular and battered slab hidden on the far left, the great jutting flat roof of Simpkins' Overhang and then the even larger roof of Wombat. The easier routes here are popular, and although not quite of the quality of the climbs to either side of The Sloth, they are still excellent and the area tends to be quieter. Guidebook page 60.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rooster
12m. Climb straight up the unprotected face to a ledge then continue up a mild jamming crack above.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
2
Chicken Run
12m. From blocks below the slab, trend right to a slot then climb straight up (well-polished chips!) to a good ledge. Start on...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
3
Fern Crack Top 50
18m. Excellent. A boulder problem start gains the crack right of the arete, then follow this (thread) to a ledge on the left -...
23 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
S 4b
4
Demon Wall
1) 4b, 10m. Climb into the hanging groove on the right passing a bulge early on, to a stance out right. Scary but less so...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 5a
5
Perverted Staircase
12m. Climb the fearsome crack through the left-hand side of the roof by gymnastic manoeuvres to reach easier ground.
2 user comments
 VS 5a
6
Simpkin's Overhang
14m. Approach the roof with trepidation then follow the main flake rightwards to the lip and a difficult final move to sensibly...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5b
7
Inverted Staircase Top 50
1) 14m. Climb the pocketed wall left then right into the groove to the right of the big roof and follow this to a leftward exit...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
D
8
The Tower of Bizarre Delights
10m. Steep and imposing. Climb directly to the ledge above the first pitch of Inverted Staircase then continue boldly up to the...
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
9
The Sublime
16m. Climb the arete up and right to bulges then pull powerfully leftwards through these and climb the leaning rib above.
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
10
Crenation
16m. Follow The Sublime to the bulges, swing right around the arte and climb the juggy wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5a
11
Heather Slab
16m. The once heathery slab that forms the back of the recess is followed directly and is worryingly difficult to protect,...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S 3c
12
Capitol Climb
20m. A worthwhile climb. Get into the hanging groove and exit right below the overhang to reach a short crack that leads to...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4a
13
Wombat
20m. A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though not especially technical. Climb the wall to a thread then traverse...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E2 5b
14
Live Bait
20m. Climb the wall using a small flake, skip right to the block then cross the roof leftwards with hard moves to pass the lip....
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
15
West's Wallaby
24m. Climb the awkward diagonal crack to the huge block tucked under the roof, then hand-traverse this (it's OK, the thing is...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
16
Walleroo
20m. Start up West's Wallaby then from the right-hand edge of the jammed block climb leftwards on small flakes to difficult...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E2 5c
17
Wallaby Direct
20m. Follow West's Wallaby to the middle of its traverse then climb steeply to an improving crack and easier ground.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
18
Late Night Final
20m. The undercut chimney that bounds the buttress on the right (thread) can be a tortuous struggle - how good is your...
1 user comment
 S 4a
19
The Valve
16m. Climb the arete on the left then the right wall via a ramp, finishing back left on the crest. Exposed and...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
20
Beckermet Slab
14m. Mild but bold. Bridge up the gully then hand-traverse out left (crux - very hard for the short) to gain the front face...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
S 4b
21
Maud's Garden Top 50
1) 4a, 14m. Balance up the crux slab then follow the crack to a stance below the bulges. 2) 8m. Move right and squirm up the...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
S 4a
22
Contrary Mary
16m Climb through a notch in the overhang then continue up the front of the buttress to a ledge. Above this the climbing is...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
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  • Latest Comments

    For ROACHES - UPPER

    Jeffcoat's Buttress
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    Pedestal Route
    "Left of shield. Best route ever? Could be." 20/Feb top50

    War Wound
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    Rooster
    "Polished rock and lack of protection make this one a fun climb." 04/May

    Sign of the Times
    "shouldn't get E2 cause it's only 6m (although I was relieved to top out!), I'd g..." 05/Oct

    Walleroo
    "Not bad but a bit of a one move wonder. Two stars? Nah." 05/Sep

    Kelly's Shelf
    "I found this very hard, not well protected to gain the ramp. This move Felt more..." 15/Aug

    The Sloth
    "HVS 5a *** Mega tick. Brilliant." 27/Jul top50

    Ruby Tuesday
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    Fern Crack
    "I found this route really good fun, and found it easy to place gear i think in t..." 18/Jun top50

    Paralogism
    "The runners do little to protect the start. May as well solo to the lip! Hard cr..." 12/May

    Chicken Run
    "I put one small cam in at the ledge, couldnt see anything else that I thought wa..." 09/May

    The Rib
    "Bit of a struggle on the first move but protectable. Then a simple scramble." 01/Apr

    Jeffcoat's Buttress
    "Managed to protect the start adequately: got a high nut in while standing on the..." 03/Nov

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