Black and Tans Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
8 mins

The main section of the upper tier is extremely impressive and is home to a truly great series of climbs, long and involving, but often of a very reasonable grade. The major classic of Saulís Crack will seek out any weaknesses in your jamming ability. Further right is Black and Tans, one of the very best Severes anywhere on grit, plus a host of routes from VDiff to E2 that are well worthy of attention. Guidebook page 62.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rotunda Buttress
18m. Climb the wide crack then trend left to a ledge. From here, climb right and then left again following the best holds to an...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
2
Rotunda Gully
14m. The open gully provides an awkward descent route for the competent and a suitably mild outing for timid beginners.
1 user comment
 M
3
Bachelor's Buttress
18m. Low in the grade but serious and with a bold finale. Once thought "only suitable for married men and others accustomed to...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
4
Gypfast
16m. The large triangular overhang is a bit of a one-move-wonder. Fix runners to left and right then cross the flakes...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 5c
5
Saul's Crack Top 50
18m. A Roaches' classic and a good test of your jamming technique. Climb into the groove then thug up the polished corner crack...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
6
Humdinger
18m. Climb the narrow buttress to the roofs and pull through these powerfully (hard for the short who will have to stretch), ...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
7
Jeffcoat's Chimney
A classic of considerable antiquity. 1) 18m. Climb the well-scratched chimney passing an overhang on the left (polished) then...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
8
Jeffcoat's Buttress
A route with an arduous (and avoidable) start. Using the chimney start lowers the route to a more amenable HS 4b. 1) 5a, 18m....
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
HS 5a
9
Hanging Around
16m. A direct pitch to the 'pipe' stance tackles the large and strenuous bulges on a right-trending line. Finish much more...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
10
Ruby Tuesday
A mini-expedition, devious and with some excellent climbing. 1) 5b, 12m. Climb to the block overhang and pull over to the base...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
11
Black and Tans Top 50
A classic expedition weaving up the impressive buttress. 1) 4a, 14m. Climb Hollybush Gully and move out left to climb a groove...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
S 4a
12
Black Velvet Top 50
24m. Another fine climb, less popular than its near neighbour but not really much less worthy. Follow Black and Tans to its...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVD 4a
13
Diamond Wednesday
24m. A bit of an eliminate though with good positions, some interesting moves and low in the grade. Start up Hollybush Crack...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
14
Hollybush Crack
26m. Bridge up the wide lower section of the gully until it is possible to transfer into the crack to the right. Continue up...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
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  • Latest Comments

    For ROACHES - UPPER

    Jeffcoat's Buttress
    "Any Hard Severe leader who isn't tall and can do the start of this straight off ..." 08/Apr

    Rotunda Buttress
    "It's a lovely line and most of the route is very steady, but the top moves are h..." 06/Apr

    Pedestal Route
    "Left of shield. Best route ever? Could be." 20/Feb top50

    War Wound
    "Feels a bit contrived, but has some very nice moves. If you can reach the first ..." 08/Sep

    Rooster
    "Polished rock and lack of protection make this one a fun climb." 04/May

    Sign of the Times
    "shouldn't get E2 cause it's only 6m (although I was relieved to top out!), I'd g..." 05/Oct

    Walleroo
    "Not bad but a bit of a one move wonder. Two stars? Nah." 05/Sep

    Kelly's Shelf
    "I found this very hard, not well protected to gain the ramp. This move Felt more..." 15/Aug

    The Sloth
    "HVS 5a *** Mega tick. Brilliant." 27/Jul top50

    Ruby Tuesday
    "I haven't done many E2's so I can't comment if this was a hard one or not (see v..." 25/Jun

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