Adjacent Areas
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Uphill
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The main section of the upper tier is extremely impressive and is home to a truly great series of climbs, long and involving, but often of a very reasonable grade. The major classic of Saul’s Crack will seek out any weaknesses in your jamming ability. Further right is Black and Tans, one of the very best Severes anywhere on grit, plus a host of routes from VDiff to E2 that are well worthy of attention. Guidebook page 62.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Rotunda Buttress 18m. Climb the wide crack then trend left to a ledge. From here, climb right and then left again following the best holds to an... 5 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
2 |
Rotunda Gully 14m. The open gully provides an awkward descent route for the competent and a suitably mild outing for timid beginners. 1 user comment | M | |
3 |
Bachelor's Buttress 18m. Low in the grade but serious and with a bold finale. Once thought "only suitable for married men and others accustomed to... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | HVS 4c |
4 |
Gypfast 16m. The large triangular overhang is a bit of a one-move-wonder. Fix runners to left and right then cross the flakes... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | E4 5c |
5 |
Saul's Crack Top 50 18m. A Roaches' classic and a good test of your jamming technique. Climb into the groove then thug up the polished corner crack... 13 user comments | 3 Stars | HVS 5a |
6 |
Humdinger 18m. Climb the narrow buttress to the roofs and pull through these powerfully (hard for the short who will have to stretch), ... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | E1 5b |
7 |
Jeffcoat's Chimney A classic of considerable antiquity. 1) 18m. Climb the well-scratched chimney passing an overhang on the left (polished) then... 8 user comments | 2 Stars | VD |
8 |
Jeffcoat's Buttress A route with an arduous (and avoidable) start. Using the chimney start lowers the route to a more amenable HS 4b. 1) 5a, 18m.... 11 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | HS 5a |
9 |
Hanging Around 16m. A direct pitch to the 'pipe' stance tackles the large and strenuous bulges on a right-trending line. Finish much more... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5b |
10 |
Ruby Tuesday A mini-expedition, devious and with some excellent climbing. 1) 5b, 12m. Climb to the block overhang and pull over to the base... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
11 |
Black and Tans Top 50 A classic expedition weaving up the impressive buttress. 1) 4a, 14m. Climb Hollybush Gully and move out left to climb a groove... 7 user comments | 3 Stars | S 4a |
12 |
Black Velvet Top 50 24m. Another fine climb, less popular than its near neighbour but not really much less worthy. Follow Black and Tans to its... 5 user comments | 3 Stars | HVD 4a |
13 |
Diamond Wednesday 24m. A bit of an eliminate though with good positions, some interesting moves and low in the grade. Start up Hollybush Crack... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
14 |
Hollybush Crack 26m. Bridge up the wide lower section of the gully until it is possible to transfer into the crack to the right. Continue up... 5 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
