Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
8 minsWindy
The overhang is the single most recognisable feature of the whole cliff. It looks huge from the path and even bigger up close! Of course The Sloth is one of the best know grit routes anywhere, though the roof is home to some much harder offerings. For more normal mortals, the slabs here have some of the best lower-grade routes anywhere. Guidebook page 64.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Technical Slab 24m. Despite the name, not very technical but bold in its central section. Climb straight up the slab (harder for the short and... 9 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | HS 4a |
2 |
Gilted 28m. An odd and wild outing based on the left edge of the roof. From Hollybush Crack, hand-traverse the lip wildly to swing... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
3 |
Painted Rumour 24m. Probably the biggest roof pitch on grit and truly magnificent. From directly above Technical Slab, place loads of gear at... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E6 6a |
4 |
Pedestal Route Top 50 28m. A great outing through some impressive territory. Climb the flake-crack up the right-hand side of the huge flake of The... 13 user comments | 3 Stars | HVD 4a |
5 |
Loculus Lie 28m. Another arduous and devious roof pitch. From the stance on Pedestal Route, climb to the Cheese Block runner on The Sloth... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
6 |
The Sloth Top 50 24m. The crack that splits the enormous roof is a total gripper. The climbing is quite straightforward although mighty... 34 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Fluttery | HVS 5a |
7 |
Central Route 16m. The centre of the poorly-protected (medium Friends) slab has delicate and unprotected moves at 10m (harder for the short)... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | VS 4b |
8 |
Right Route Top 50 24m. A classic up the slanting flake that bounds the right edge of the main slab; mild at the grade. Reach the flake via... 18 user comments | 3 Stars | VD |
9 |
Right Route Right 14m. Follow Right Route to the overhang then pull over this to gain the hanging groove just above and follow this to the top. | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
10 |
Kelly's Direct 14m. From the shelf (see below), climb the crack on the left to a flake and follow this, and then rounded pockets, to the... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded | E1 5b |
11 |
Kelly's Shelf 16m. The bulging face has a narrow ramp cutting through it from left to right. Climb on to this (an ungainly struggle for most)... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | S 4b |
12 |
Paralogism 14m. The large roof under the right-hand side of the buttress is taxing. Climb leftwards across the overhang to the lip then... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E7 6c |
13 |
Antithesis 14m. The right-hand edge of the scooped wall to the right is traversed leftwards with considerable difficulty. A side-runner in... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
14 |
Bed of Nails 12m. From the gully head left across the wall to a diagonal crack (often green), then from the top of this move left to finish.... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E3 5b |
15 |
Easy Gully Wall 20m. Climb to a block to the right of the gully then continue leftwards to a ledge. Move up and left to a higher one then take... 1 user comment | Fluttery | S 4a |
16 |
Jelly Roll 22m. Follow the strenuous thin crack in the wall to a possible stance and block belay. Pull boldly over a bulge and climb a... 3 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4b |
17 |
Roscoe's Wall/Round Table 20m. A good combination up the steep wall; the lower pitch sees plenty of attention, the upper one less so. Climb the centre of... 8 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
18 |
Crack and Corner Top 50 An exciting expedition up an unlikely line at the grade. 1) 4c, 20m. Climb into the crack with difficulty then follow it to a... 10 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | S 4c |
19 |
Babbacombe Lee 10m. From the foot of the crack, climb the buttress rightwards to a good rest and a finish up a crack and awkward bulge. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
20 |
Hangman's Crack 10m. Start up the bank on the right and trend left to below the flake crack that splits the roof. Finish awkwardly up this. | S 4a | |
