Sloth Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
8 mins

The overhang is the single most recognisable feature of the whole cliff. It looks huge from the path and even bigger up close! Of course The Sloth is one of the best know grit routes anywhere, though the roof is home to some much harder offerings. For more normal mortals, the slabs here have some of the best lower-grade routes anywhere. Guidebook page 64.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Technical Slab
24m. Despite the name, not very technical but bold in its central section. Climb straight up the slab (harder for the short and...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4a
2
Gilted
28m. An odd and wild outing based on the left edge of the roof. From Hollybush Crack, hand-traverse the lip wildly to swing...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
3
Painted Rumour
24m. Probably the biggest roof pitch on grit and truly magnificent. From directly above Technical Slab, place loads of gear at...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6 6a
4
Pedestal Route Top 50
28m. A great outing through some impressive territory. Climb the flake-crack up the right-hand side of the huge flake of The...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVD 4a
5
Loculus Lie
28m. Another arduous and devious roof pitch. From the stance on Pedestal Route, climb to the Cheese Block runner on The Sloth...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
6
The Sloth Top 50
24m. The crack that splits the enormous roof is a total gripper. The climbing is quite straightforward although mighty...
34 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
HVS 5a
7
Central Route
16m. The centre of the poorly-protected (medium Friends) slab has delicate and unprotected moves at 10m (harder for the short)...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4b
8
Right Route Top 50
24m. A classic up the slanting flake that bounds the right edge of the main slab; mild at the grade. Reach the flake via...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
VD
9
Right Route Right
14m. Follow Right Route to the overhang then pull over this to gain the hanging groove just above and follow this to the top.
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
10
Kelly's Direct
14m. From the shelf (see below), climb the crack on the left to a flake and follow this, and then rounded pockets, to the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
E1 5b
11
Kelly's Shelf
16m. The bulging face has a narrow ramp cutting through it from left to right. Climb on to this (an ungainly struggle for most)...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4b
12
Paralogism
14m. The large roof under the right-hand side of the buttress is taxing. Climb leftwards across the overhang to the lip then...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
13
Antithesis
14m. The right-hand edge of the scooped wall to the right is traversed leftwards with considerable difficulty. A side-runner in...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
14
Bed of Nails
12m. From the gully head left across the wall to a diagonal crack (often green), then from the top of this move left to finish....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3 5b
15
Easy Gully Wall
20m. Climb to a block to the right of the gully then continue leftwards to a ledge. Move up and left to a higher one then take...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
S 4a
16
Jelly Roll
22m. Follow the strenuous thin crack in the wall to a possible stance and block belay. Pull boldly over a bulge and climb a...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
17
Roscoe's Wall/Round Table
20m. A good combination up the steep wall; the lower pitch sees plenty of attention, the upper one less so. Climb the centre of...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
18
Crack and Corner Top 50
An exciting expedition up an unlikely line at the grade. 1) 4c, 20m. Climb into the crack with difficulty then follow it to a...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
S 4c
19
Babbacombe Lee
10m. From the foot of the crack, climb the buttress rightwards to a good rest and a finish up a crack and awkward bulge.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
20
Hangman's Crack
10m. Start up the bank on the right and trend left to below the flake crack that splits the roof. Finish awkwardly up this.
 S 4a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For ROACHES - UPPER

    Jeffcoat's Buttress
    "Any Hard Severe leader who isn't tall and can do the start of this straight off ..." 08/Apr

    Rotunda Buttress
    "It's a lovely line and most of the route is very steady, but the top moves are h..." 06/Apr

    Pedestal Route
    "Left of shield. Best route ever? Could be." 20/Feb top50

    War Wound
    "Feels a bit contrived, but has some very nice moves. If you can reach the first ..." 08/Sep

    Rooster
    "Polished rock and lack of protection make this one a fun climb." 04/May

    Sign of the Times
    "shouldn't get E2 cause it's only 6m (although I was relieved to top out!), I'd g..." 05/Oct

    Walleroo
    "Not bad but a bit of a one move wonder. Two stars? Nah." 05/Sep

    Kelly's Shelf
    "I found this very hard, not well protected to gain the ramp. This move Felt more..." 15/Aug

    The Sloth
    "HVS 5a *** Mega tick. Brilliant." 27/Jul top50

    Ruby Tuesday
    "I haven't done many E2's so I can't comment if this was a hard one or not (see v..." 25/Jun

    Fern Crack
    "I found this route really good fun, and found it easy to place gear i think in t..." 18/Jun top50

    Paralogism
    "The runners do little to protect the start. May as well solo to the lip! Hard cr..." 12/May

    Chicken Run
    "I put one small cam in at the ledge, couldnt see anything else that I thought wa..." 09/May

    The Rib
    "Bit of a struggle on the first move but protectable. Then a simple scramble." 01/Apr

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