Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
8 minsWindy
Rather diminutive when compared to the rest of the Roaches, these two small buttresses do offer some easier climbs and the well-polished Left-hand and Right-hand Routes as well as a couple of harder offerings. The place is rarely busy. Guidebook page 68.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Scarlett Wall 12m. Pull though the bulge and climb the crack to its end then move right to a ledge. Climb delicately to the capping bulge and... 6 user comments | S 4a | |
2 |
War Wound 12m. Climb the tough wall (especially hard to start) to a ledge and gear then finish up the rounded arete on the left. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E1 6a |
3 |
Left-hand Route 14m. Layback strenuously through the left edge of the roof using the juggy flake then head delicately up then right to the... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
4 |
Right-hand Route 14m. Climb the desperately slippery layback crack to a ledge, step right and pull through the overhang by the obvious crack. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HS 4c |
5 |
Gully Wall 10m. Follow the line of left-trending flakes to join the final steep section of the previous climb. 1 user comment | VS 4b | |
6 |
Grilled Fingers 8m. Start up a blocky groove then climb straight up the centre of the side-wall by a couple of long stretches. 5 user comments | HVS 4c | |
7 |
The Rib 8m. The right-hand edge of the gully is pleasant enough. Starting up the gully to avoid the bulges is quite a bit easier. 2 user comments | S 4a | |
8 |
Rib Wall 8m. The hard wall (4b direct) to a ledge, trend left to The Rib. 5 user comments | VD | |
9 |
Sparkle 8m. Climb the flakes in the side-wall then exit left below the bulges. The final bulge direct is HVS 5a. 2 user comments | HS 4b | |
10 |
Sign of the Times 6m. From the foot of Calcutta Crack, pull right and left onto the the wall to reach and climb the thin flake. Finish direct. 2 user comments | E1 5c | |
11 |
Calcutta Crack 6m. The twisting crack is very tricky, especially for the short. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | HS 4b |
12 |
Mistral 6m. Climb the wall to a break where steep and fingery moves are needed to finish. | 1 Stars | E2 6a |
13 |
Calcutta Buttress 10m. Climb the left-hand side of the buttress, step left and make precarious moves to stand in the break. Climb rightwards to... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
14 |
Genetix 10m. Cross the roof with difficulty and climb the right-hand side of the arete to a grasping finish. | 1 Stars | E3 6a |
15 |
Ou est le Spit? 6m. The ramp on the north face of the boulder to a gripping swarm to safety. Diminutive but worthwhile. 6 user comments | 1 Stars | E6 6b |
