Wall Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Straight Ahead  |  Calvary >

Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

A fine piece of rock where Namenlos and Wall Buttress are popular ticks. The other climbs here see much less traffic despite there being some worthwhile offerings.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Men Only
10m. Layback the rounded arete, then stride the gap and continue up the upper arete - left then right.
 
Technical
E1 5c
2
O.D.G's Chimney
8m. Oddly, the narrow rift was missed by the old timers first time round. Enter it awkwardly to reach the top of the tall...
 VD
3
Boys Will Be Boys
10m. The steep blank wall is an intense piece of climbing; follow the non-line just left of centre. Unprotected and hard!
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
4
Capstone Chimney
10m. The deep dark (and often dank) rift is okay as far as the boulder that blocks it. The thin will be able to escape using...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4c
5
Badly Bitten
10m. Start up Moribund but swing left and climb the blunt rib on pebbles. Sadly stepping left to use the arete is nearer E2 5c.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6a
6
Moribund
10m. Climb past the left edge of the overlap to a break, swing right and stretch past pockets to a second break. One more hard...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E3 5c
7
Wall Buttress
12m. A traditional grovel which has been upgraded by popular demand. Either sprint up the right-slanting layback, then swing...
20 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
HVS 5a
8
Direct Loss
12m. Climb the right-hand crack to its top, then the thinner crack-line above, before stepping right onto the blunt arete...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
9
Improbability Drive
12m. Start in the centre of the wall and climb a short crack and thin flakes to a good break. Use a small pebble to pull up the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
E3 6b
10
Namenlos
14m. Delicate and mildly bold. Climb the crack to a ledge then move left and balance up the ramp-line (small wires and Friends...
20 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
11
Memory Loss
12m. Disjointed. The short wall on the right has a long reach. Above this, move left and climb the blunt rib and final scoop.
 
Reachy
HVS 5b
12
Fear and Loathing
6m. On the front face of the lozenge-shaped block 100m below the edge. The centre of the valley face is unprotected and scary.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

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