Alpha Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Far Skyline Buttress  |  Skyline Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

A pleasant slabby buttress in the middle of nowhere, always quiet and a good place to escape the crowds. Guidebook page 50.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Melaleucion
8m. The butch front of the first buttress has a steep start and a bevy of shelving overlaps above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
2
Devotoed
8m. Tackle the crack in the right wall to a rounded exit.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
Rounded
VS 5a
3
Alpha
8m. The shallow groove is awkward but the gear is good.
 
1 Stars
VD
4
Alpha Arete
8m. The acute arete by some pleasantly mild laybacking.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
S 4a
5
Breakfast Corner
6m. The main groove is about as easy as they come.
 M
6
Formative Years
8m. The narrow technical slab needs blinkers really.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E3 6a
7
Breakfast Problem
8m. A pair of cracks in the left-hand edge of the slab fuse as they rise. Avoiding the right-hand crack is tricky.
 
1 Stars
VD
8
Days Gone By
8m. The right-hand crack has nice moves but is squeezed.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4a
9
San Melas
8m. The centre of the slab to a move right at half height and a delicate finish. The start is bold but the smeary upper slab is...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
10
Hallow to our Men
8m. A direct-ish start to San Melas up the shallow groove. A right-hand finish is also possible, but not very independent.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6b
11
Mantis
8m. The elegant arete on its right then left with a bold start to large cams in the break - a breather - then an airy finish.
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
12
Sennapod
8m. The corner named is after its famous Welsh counterpart. It is better that it looks with good bridging moves.
 VD
13
Sennapod Crack
8m. The crack just right of the corner.
 VD
14
39th Step
8m. The groove right of the corner and the slab above. An easily-placed side runner is normal at the grade.
 
Technical
E2 6a
15
Wallaby Wall
10m. The wide awkward crack in the centre of the slab leads to ledges. Excellent moves (or the inferior grassy flakes just left...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
16
Definitive Gaze
10m. Artificial but with some good moves and decent protection and quite popular for an eliminate. Climb through a scoop and up...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5c
17
Right-hand Route
12m. Worth seeking out. Climb the jamming crack into the chimney then step out left - choce of levels - to reach a...
 
2 Stars
S 4a
18
Looking for Today
8m. The thin crack and short face.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
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  • Latest Comments

    For ROACHES - SKYLINE

    Ogden Arete
    "Who on earth graded this one? I thought I knew all the Roaches "Hard Severe..." 14/May

    Wings of Unreason
    "Good fun! I found the crux getting stood up in the pocket, prior to the jump." 06/Jul top50

    Days Gone By
    "If you stick to the crack for hands and feet it's harder than 4a, more like 4c. ..." 11/Jul

    Triple Point
    "Sit Start below wild thing about font 7b" 29/Mar

    Karabiner Chimney
    "Horrible squirmy nonsense, although amusing for the second, at least until it's ..." 13/Jun

    Acid Drop
    "i thought this route was great. the gear made the crux moves super-absorbing but..." 10/May

    Topaz
    "Very good climbing through the crack and slopers above - just a shame it only ge..." 19/Apr

    Lighthouse
    "A pocket at mid height has clearly been used for alot of cams and is now becomin..." 24/Aug

    Tower Chimney
    "Much pleasanter then it looks, with the good finale." 06/Aug

    Condor Slab
    "A classic line and fine climbing up the centre of the buttress. Sadly there is n..." 27/Jul

    Enigma Variation
    "Very soft. E1 5A." 26/Apr

    Triple Point
    "Good route - better than Wild Thing." 03/Mar

    Mantelshelf Slab
    "What I was trying to say above was that the BMC guide has downgraded this to VS ..." 27/Apr

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