Adjacent Areas
< Cave Buttress | Condor Buttress >
The first stretch of rock reached from the Upper Tier has a good set of climbs, with a number of short lower grade offerings, and a smaller collection of butch routes. Guidebook page 54.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Tower Eliminate 14m. In the left-hand face of the tower, steep cracks lead past a poor rest in a niche. It is also possible to finish up the... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5b |
2 |
Tower Face 14m. Climb an initial groove and follow tenuous cracks until forced right for a steep finale on the front. Scary and rounded. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E2 5b |
3 |
Tower Chimney 16m. The chimney splitting the buttress is very traditional. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Graunchy | D |
4 |
Perched Block Arete 16m. Climb the right arete of the buttress on its right-hand side, passing over the perched block to the final wall where... 4 user comments | 2 Stars | VD |
5 |
Thrug 8m. The th(r)uggish crack splitting the steep wall. Short-lived. 6 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |
6 |
Bad Poynt 10m. The slab and crack above a boulder was a late find. Beware the odd wobbly hold. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Loose | D |
7 |
Oversite 10m. The slabby and (mildly bold) arete was also over-looked. | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVD |
8 |
Ogden 8m. The pleasant left-trending crack on polished footholds. | 2 Stars Rounded | VD |
9 |
Ogden Arete 8m. The neat arete with a powerful start and pleasant above. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | HS 4c |
10 |
Ogden Recess 8m. Grunt up the wider fissure then finish direct. | Graunchy | VD |
11 |
Black Pig 8m. The thin crack in the right wall of the chimney deserves its name (and 5c) if you don't use the footholds behind you! 6 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
12 |
Spare Rib 8m. The right arete of the wall is serious but well worth doing. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | VS 4c |
13 |
Bad Sneakers 8m. This attempt to climb the smooth slab almost gets forced into the gully before looping back right to finish. Direct is E3. 3 user comments | Rounded Fluttery | E2 5c |
14 |
Spectrum 8m. The right-hand side of the slab to a short crack. | Fluttery | HVS 4c |
15 |
Middleton's Motion 10m. Climb straight to, and through, a short roof crack. Not quite as stiff a problem as you might be expecting. | Graunchy | VS 4b |
16 |
Topaz 10m. The slanting crack on the right-hand side of the overhang is approached via the rib and has a moment or two of interest up... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
17 |
Strain Station 12m. From the top of the rib, attack the roof leftwards to a finish up the bold hanging arete above the lip. May still be... | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
18 |
Letter Box Gully 10m. The slabby left-hand side of the recess leads to a cave recess where you can post yourself to make a subterranean exit.... | Graunchy | M |
19 |
Letter Box Cracks 10m. Twin cracks above deep recess are separated by a huge keyed-in block. Approach via the corner below then climb one... | 1 Stars Graunchy | VS 4c |
20 |
Safety Net Top 50 10m. The centre of the buttress leads over an overhang to another that caps the wall, and is cleaved by an excellent flake.... 10 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | E1 5b |
21 |
Shortcomings 10m. The flake that runs up the right edge of the buttress is the substance of the route. Reach it with difficulty (hard for... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | E1 5c |
22 |
Left Twin Crack 10m. The twin cracks in the left wall of the recess via a groove. The route starts as for Square Chimney and improves with... 1 user comment | HS 4b | |
23 |
Square Chimney 8m. The mild angle in the left-hand corner of the recess. | D | |
24 |
Trio Chimney 8m. The right-hand angle is better than it looks. Start inside. | 1 Stars Graunchy | VD |
25 |
Substance 8m. Despite the name, the left-hand arete of the next buttress is of no great substance. | VS 4c | |
26 |
Lighthouse 10m. The centre of the face has a polished and perplexing start. It is pleasant above though the gear does not inspire. 5 user comments | Technical Rounded Fluttery | VD |
27 |
Ralph's Mantelshelves 8m. From the right toe of the buttress mantel-a-way up the face heading leftwards. A more direct version is the same grade. | S 4a | |
28 |
Rowan Tree Traverse 16m. Start below the large overhang but trend left to pass its edge by a vegetated ledge d finish up the flake crack just left... | 1 Stars | VD |
29 |
Pebbles on a Wessex Beach 10m. Climb up to and into the widening left-hand crack through the overhang. A runner in the next route may be needed and can... | E3 5c | |
30 |
Hank's Horror 8m. Climb into the recess in the left wall of the buttress then pull right into the awkward wide crack. | E1 5b | |