Tower Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Cave Buttress  |  Condor Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

The first stretch of rock reached from the Upper Tier has a good set of climbs, with a number of short lower grade offerings, and a smaller collection of butch routes. Guidebook page 54.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tower Eliminate
14m. In the left-hand face of the tower, steep cracks lead past a poor rest in a niche. It is also possible to finish up the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
2
Tower Face
14m. Climb an initial groove and follow tenuous cracks until forced right for a steep finale on the front. Scary and rounded.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
3
Tower Chimney
16m. The chimney splitting the buttress is very traditional.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
D
4
Perched Block Arete
16m. Climb the right arete of the buttress on its right-hand side, passing over the perched block to the final wall where...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
5
Thrug
8m. The th(r)uggish crack splitting the steep wall. Short-lived.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
6
Bad Poynt
10m. The slab and crack above a boulder was a late find. Beware the odd wobbly hold.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
D
7
Oversite
10m. The slabby and (mildly bold) arete was also over-looked.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVD
8
Ogden
8m. The pleasant left-trending crack on polished footholds.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VD
9
Ogden Arete
8m. The neat arete with a powerful start and pleasant above.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS 4c
10
Ogden Recess
8m. Grunt up the wider fissure then finish direct.
 
Graunchy
VD
11
Black Pig
8m. The thin crack in the right wall of the chimney deserves its name (and 5c) if you don't use the footholds behind you!
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
12
Spare Rib
8m. The right arete of the wall is serious but well worth doing.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
13
Bad Sneakers
8m. This attempt to climb the smooth slab almost gets forced into the gully before looping back right to finish. Direct is E3.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5c
14
Spectrum
8m. The right-hand side of the slab to a short crack.
 
Fluttery
HVS 4c
15
Middleton's Motion
10m. Climb straight to, and through, a short roof crack. Not quite as stiff a problem as you might be expecting.
 
Graunchy
VS 4b
16
Topaz
10m. The slanting crack on the right-hand side of the overhang is approached via the rib and has a moment or two of interest up...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
17
Strain Station
12m. From the top of the rib, attack the roof leftwards to a finish up the bold hanging arete above the lip. May still be...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
18
Letter Box Gully
10m. The slabby left-hand side of the recess leads to a cave recess where you can post yourself to make a subterranean exit....
 
Graunchy
M
19
Letter Box Cracks
10m. Twin cracks above deep recess are separated by a huge keyed-in block. Approach via the corner below then climb one...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
20
Safety Net Top 50
10m. The centre of the buttress leads over an overhang to another that caps the wall, and is cleaved by an excellent flake....
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
21
Shortcomings
10m. The flake that runs up the right edge of the buttress is the substance of the route. Reach it with difficulty (hard for...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E1 5c
22
Left Twin Crack
10m. The twin cracks in the left wall of the recess via a groove. The route starts as for Square Chimney and improves with...
1 user comment
 HS 4b
23
Square Chimney
8m. The mild angle in the left-hand corner of the recess.
 D
24
Trio Chimney
8m. The right-hand angle is better than it looks. Start inside.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
25
Substance
8m. Despite the name, the left-hand arete of the next buttress is of no great substance.
 VS 4c
26
Lighthouse
10m. The centre of the face has a polished and perplexing start. It is pleasant above though the gear does not inspire.
5 user comments
 
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
VD
27
Ralph's Mantelshelves
8m. From the right toe of the buttress mantel-a-way up the face heading leftwards. A more direct version is the same grade.
 S 4a
28
Rowan Tree Traverse
16m. Start below the large overhang but trend left to pass its edge by a vegetated ledge d finish up the flake crack just left...
 
1 Stars
VD
29
Pebbles on a Wessex Beach
10m. Climb up to and into the widening left-hand crack through the overhang. A runner in the next route may be needed and can...
 E3 5c
30
Hank's Horror
8m. Climb into the recess in the left wall of the buttress then pull right into the awkward wide crack.
 E1 5b
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For ROACHES - SKYLINE

    Ogden Arete
    "Who on earth graded this one? I thought I knew all the Roaches "Hard Severe..." 14/May

    Wings of Unreason
    "Good fun! I found the crux getting stood up in the pocket, prior to the jump." 06/Jul top50

    Days Gone By
    "If you stick to the crack for hands and feet it's harder than 4a, more like 4c. ..." 11/Jul

    Triple Point
    "Sit Start below wild thing about font 7b" 29/Mar

    Karabiner Chimney
    "Horrible squirmy nonsense, although amusing for the second, at least until it's ..." 13/Jun

    Acid Drop
    "i thought this route was great. the gear made the crux moves super-absorbing but..." 10/May

    Topaz
    "Very good climbing through the crack and slopers above - just a shame it only ge..." 19/Apr

    Lighthouse
    "A pocket at mid height has clearly been used for alot of cams and is now becomin..." 24/Aug

    Tower Chimney
    "Much pleasanter then it looks, with the good finale." 06/Aug

    Condor Slab
    "A classic line and fine climbing up the centre of the buttress. Sadly there is n..." 27/Jul

    Enigma Variation
    "Very soft. E1 5A." 26/Apr

    Triple Point
    "Good route - better than Wild Thing." 03/Mar

    Mantelshelf Slab
    "What I was trying to say above was that the BMC guide has downgraded this to VS ..." 27/Apr

    San Melas
    "BETA ALERT! Two independent ways of moving from the break. 1. Centre of slab, ..." 25/Mar

    Wings of Unreason
    "Iam 5ft 6 and giving the top move 6b would be a crime(unless you try and smear i..." 19/Mar top50

    Definitive Gaze
    "I thought this was a lovely little route with lots of interest between breaks wi..." 10/Mar

    Wild Thing
    "I found this much easier as a dynamic problem. Am I the only one to find it toug..." 12/Dec

    Prelude to Space
    "No way is this 2 stars, it's friggin 4 stars. Pure class and you know dat." 13/Nov

    Mantis
    "Hard first few moves, then big gear (cam number 4) and a nice top bit. HVS 5b!" 05/Nov

    Alpha Arete
    "Agree. A nice route on good rock with the crux at the top. Deserves a star." 11/Oct

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