Condor Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 mins

Being home to several worthwhile lower and middle grade routes makes this the most popular destination on the Skyline - that and the fact that it is the closest buttress to the road! Guidebook page 56.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Condor Slab
14m. The centre of the slab is climbed passing a hole to a ledge then a finish up the face above and slightly right. Good...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
VS 4c
2
A.M. Anaesthetic
14m. The right arete of the buttress is precarious, and although low in the grade, protection is somewhat lacking.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 4c
3
Cracked Arete
14m. Climb the well-travelled slab (tricky to start) to a ledge then tackle the well protected crack left of the final chimney.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVD
4
Condor Chimney
8m. The chimney at the back of the ledge is pleasant enough and is easiest if you don't get in too deep. Finish on the right.
 
Graunchy
VD
5
Nosepicker
8m. Climb the acute arete throughout, carefully following the left-hand side of the jutting nose of rock to a finish on the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5a
6
Time to be Had
8m. The thin twisting cracks in the wall to the right are pleasant and well-protected. There is a choice of finishes.
 
2 Stars
HVD
7
Tobacco Road
8m. The centre of the wall on improving holds. The initial bulge (5b direct) might have you puffing a little.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
VS 4c
8
Wheeze
14m. Climb the easy lower rib to the break (large gear) then the poorly-protected upper arete, stepping right above the bulge...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
9
Bruno Flake
8m. The steep groove just round to the right is awkward; especaily passing the overhang. You may arrive at the top ready rubbed...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
10
Navy Cut
8m. The twisting groove/niche in the slab to the right leads to a position below the roof and has an unlikely exit.
1 user comment
 VD
11
Chicane
6m. The blunt central rib from a block. Head right then left.
 S 4a
12
Lung Cancer
6m. The right edge of the wall, zigzagging through the bulges. Typically the climbing eases as soon as the runners arrive!
 S 3c
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  • Latest Comments

    For ROACHES - SKYLINE

    Wings of Unreason
    "Good fun! I found the crux getting stood up in the pocket, prior to the jump." 06/Jul top50

    Days Gone By
    "If you stick to the crack for hands and feet it's harder than 4a, more like 4c. ..." 11/Jul

    Triple Point
    "Sit Start below wild thing about font 7b" 29/Mar

    Karabiner Chimney
    "Horrible squirmy nonsense, although amusing for the second, at least until it's ..." 13/Jun

    Acid Drop
    "i thought this route was great. the gear made the crux moves super-absorbing but..." 10/May

    Topaz
    "Very good climbing through the crack and slopers above - just a shame it only ge..." 19/Apr

    Lighthouse
    "A pocket at mid height has clearly been used for alot of cams and is now becomin..." 24/Aug

    Tower Chimney
    "Much pleasanter then it looks, with the good finale." 06/Aug

    Condor Slab
    "A classic line and fine climbing up the centre of the buttress. Sadly there is n..." 27/Jul

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