Calvary

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

A fine buttress with one of Stanage's finest routes: Calvary. With modern gear it should be safe enough though it requires a careful approach. If Calvary is too bland, Defying Destiny might be more to your liking!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Groovy
The scoopy continuation of the initial crack. Precarious.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E2 5c
2
August Arete
Climb the crack to the right of the holly then move out right to reach the arete, which is climbed with difficulty.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5b
3
Telli
Low in the grade and popular. The centre of the slab leads boldly to the break where a crucial mantel gains a standing...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E3 6a
4
The Spare Rib
Another awkward and dirty cleft - get in there!
 
Graunchy
VD
5
Traversty
From a block, make bouldery moves to flakes and a break, pull up and right to the ledge then trend left up the final wall.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1 6a
6
Rib Chimney
The often-grubby cleft is climbed by skiddy back and footing to ledges and the dividing rib. Finish up its left side.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
7
Night Salt
The superb arete is brutal.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
V7 7A+
8
Calvary Direct
Swing round the arete and climb the wall to the deep break and runners, then move right into the regular route.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6a
9
Calvary Top 50
A great test of nerve and ability; protection is adequate. Start up a crack then swing out left and make a fierce mantel to...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
10
Defying Destiny
A tense and taxing line up the centre of the wall. Climb the initial crack then move right and gain the next break with...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E6 6b
11
Dark Reign
The right arete of the buttress is climbed on its left side - gritty. Protection is from poor cams and the crucial reach has a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
12
Chockstone Chimney
The rift that cleaves the centre of the buttress, passing the chock early on with difficulty. Safe but quite a battle.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HVD 3c
13
Plugging the Gaps
Climb the narrowing wall leftwards with the a long reach or two.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
14
Cleft Wall Route 1
Take the zig-zag crack to the awkward final section.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Graunchy
HS 4b
15
Early Starter
From the end of the wide crack, climb the wall direct.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E1 5b
16
Cleft Wall Route 2
A continuous crack running the full height of the buttress. It is safe but awkward, especially towards the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
VS 5a
17
Ritornel
Climb the crack then move up and right to the arete. Bold.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
18
Lucky Strike
A short precarious direct finish to Ritornel.
 
Reachy
Rounded
E2 5b
19
Strike it Lucky
A bouldery direct start can be linked into Lucky Strike.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
20
Three Lanky Sassenachs and one Wee Joch
The short crack and wee arete have a reachy moove or twoo!
 
Reachy
E1 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

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    "Changed from V1 5b * to V2 5c *, no votes" 21/Jan

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    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

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    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

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    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

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    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

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    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

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