Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 minsWindy
The left-hand side of the cliff is dominated by three tall and impressive towers. To the right is a steep section of walls above a green lower tier which is split by a long horizontal roof. There are some worthwhile (and hard) routes here that are always quieter than the main section of the cliff away to the right. Bulwark is a particularly fine E1, bold and exhilarating and Slowhand is only marginally less magnificent. The steep walls above the lower tier have some worthwhile but neglected climbs in the upper grades but few real classics; bald aretes and bold faces are pretty much the name of the game here. Guidebook page 82.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Nutted by Reality 8m. The middle of the pale wall on the far left of the crag is precarious and technical, especially in the lower section. | 1 Stars Technical | E1 6a |
2 |
Slipstreams 8m. Twinned shallow cracks lead to a flake on the left. | HVS 5a | |
3 |
Little Pinnacle Climb 8m. The stepped groove at the right edge of the terrace leads past ledges to a finish over the eponymous pinnacle. | VD | |
4 |
November Cracks 12m. Climb the parallel cracks up the left-hand side of the first tower to a finish up the groove above. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | S 4a |
5 |
Bulwark 12m. Bold and satisfying. From the ledge on the right traverse out left to reach the airy arete and balance up this to a juggy... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E1 5b |
6 |
Slowhand 12m. The right-hand side of the face past a crack and a pocket. The delicate finale is most easily overcome by a long stretch. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy | E1 5b |
7 |
Mindbridge 12m. The right wall of the chimney is fierce and bold with low gear for the crux but not for the finish on the slopy fluting.... | Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E7 6c |
8 |
Master of Reality 12m. An overhanging gritstone 'tufa' provides one of the finest hard routes in Western Grit. Spaced gear on the lower wall... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Crimpy | E6 6c |
9 |
Master of Puppets 12m. The right arete has a scary start to reach the break and a tough upper section on spaced monos and poor slopers. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E6 6b |
10 |
The Notch 12m. The tight groove between the right-hand towers. Start up the left-hand crack to a block then climb a shallow groove before... | VS 4c | |
11 |
Chicken 12m. Climb the finger-crack in the third tower to its end then move right before stepping back left and teetering up the... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E1 5a |
12 |
Pullet 12m. Climb the wall to the ledge on Chicken and follow it to the base of its final scoop. From here, step right to climb the... | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
13 |
Piston Groove 12m. The arduous groove that bounds the right-hand side of the tower. Bridging is the most elegant way of climbing it, at least... | VS 5a | |
14 |
The Mandrake 10m. Climb the wall leftwards past an overhang to the arete and a bold finish. A side-runner in Victory protects the start but... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E5 6a |
15 |
Mandrill 10m. The wall with a small roof to the right of The Mandrake has good but difficult-to-place micro-wires just over the lip, and... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
16 |
Victory 10m. The angular groove which curves over leftwards at the top is an awkward thrash for most of its length. | VS 4c | |
17 |
Green Corner 8m. A luminous groove is one of the few lower-grade routes in the vicinity; pity it is often an unpleasant struggle. 1 user comment | S 4a | |
18 |
Blood Blisters 10m. Gain the thin crack right of the arete with difficulty then slap up the arete to a gruesome rounded exit. | 1 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E4 6b |
19 |
Electric Chair 10m. Climb direct to reach a narrow ledge in the centre of the wall. Then trend left to a crack before heading back right to... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5c |
20 |
Bad Joke 8m. From the ledge of the previous route, climb the wall direct, Bald, bold and not really all that funny! Usually needs... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
21 |
Gallows 8m. Swing up the right-hand arete of the square wall, starting on the left and change sides to finish. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
22 |
Recess Chimney 8m. Reach the wide chimney by climbing the left-hand side of the large block then choose an exit; the right-hand side is... | VD | |
23 |
Dog Eye Rib 8m. A serious undertaking up the exposed rib. The crux involves a technical stretch for slopers and the finish is the stuff of... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Rounded Fluttery | E6 6b |
24 |
The Sorcerer 8m. Climb the thin seam right of the arete with a taxing initial sequence then gradually improving holds. | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
25 |
High Tensile Crack 8m. The thin crack right again is tougher than it looks and proves to be a trying, tiring struggle for most. | HVS 5b | |
26 |
Buster the Cat 8m. The crack and groove on the far left left give awkward and usually somewhat dirty jamming. | Pumpy | HVS 5b |
27 |
Pug 8m. The better-defined jamming crack just right terminates in a grass-filled recess. Finish up this! | VS 4c | |
28 |
A Flabby Crack 12m. Technical and excellent when dry, despite the grass on the ledge and the chimney finish. Tackle the thin crack-line with... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E6 6c |
29 |
The Stone Loach 10m. An extended boulder problem leads up the thin crack past a niche to the break. Finish up the evil wide crack above... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
30 |
Anthrax 14m. Multi-pitch 'pleasure'. The tasty thin (and usually green) crack in the arete of the chimney to the break (possible belay)... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
31 |
The Lum 8m. The coffin-shaped chimney is grunted direct. Finish up the hanging flake on the left or just walk off right. | Strong | HVS 4c |
32 |
Bantam Crack 8m. The diminutive hand-crack on the right is pleasant enough. | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
