Far Left

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Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

The left-hand side of the cliff is dominated by three tall and impressive towers. To the right is a steep section of walls above a green lower tier which is split by a long horizontal roof. There are some worthwhile (and hard) routes here that are always quieter than the main section of the cliff away to the right. Bulwark is a particularly fine E1, bold and exhilarating and Slowhand is only marginally less magnificent. The steep walls above the lower tier have some worthwhile but neglected climbs in the upper grades but few real classics; bald aretes and bold faces are pretty much the name of the game here. Guidebook page 82.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Nutted by Reality
8m. The middle of the pale wall on the far left of the crag is precarious and technical, especially in the lower section.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 6a
2
Slipstreams
8m. Twinned shallow cracks lead to a flake on the left.
 HVS 5a
3
Little Pinnacle Climb
8m. The stepped groove at the right edge of the terrace leads past ledges to a finish over the eponymous pinnacle.
 VD
4
November Cracks
12m. Climb the parallel cracks up the left-hand side of the first tower to a finish up the groove above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
5
Bulwark
12m. Bold and satisfying. From the ledge on the right traverse out left to reach the airy arete and balance up this to a juggy...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
6
Slowhand
12m. The right-hand side of the face past a crack and a pocket. The delicate finale is most easily overcome by a long stretch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
7
Mindbridge
12m. The right wall of the chimney is fierce and bold with low gear for the crux but not for the finish on the slopy fluting....
 
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
8
Master of Reality
12m. An overhanging gritstone 'tufa' provides one of the finest hard routes in Western Grit. Spaced gear on the lower wall...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
E6 6c
9
Master of Puppets
12m. The right arete has a scary start to reach the break and a tough upper section on spaced monos and poor slopers.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E6 6b
10
The Notch
12m. The tight groove between the right-hand towers. Start up the left-hand crack to a block then climb a shallow groove before...
 VS 4c
11
Chicken
12m. Climb the finger-crack in the third tower to its end then move right before stepping back left and teetering up the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
12
Pullet
12m. Climb the wall to the ledge on Chicken and follow it to the base of its final scoop. From here, step right to climb the...
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
13
Piston Groove
12m. The arduous groove that bounds the right-hand side of the tower. Bridging is the most elegant way of climbing it, at least...
 VS 5a
14
The Mandrake
10m. Climb the wall leftwards past an overhang to the arete and a bold finish. A side-runner in Victory protects the start but...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
15
Mandrill
10m. The wall with a small roof to the right of The Mandrake has good but difficult-to-place micro-wires just over the lip, and...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
16
Victory
10m. The angular groove which curves over leftwards at the top is an awkward thrash for most of its length.
 VS 4c
17
Green Corner
8m. A luminous groove is one of the few lower-grade routes in the vicinity; pity it is often an unpleasant struggle.
1 user comment
 S 4a
18
Blood Blisters
10m. Gain the thin crack right of the arete with difficulty then slap up the arete to a gruesome rounded exit.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 6b
19
Electric Chair
10m. Climb direct to reach a narrow ledge in the centre of the wall. Then trend left to a crack before heading back right to...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
20
Bad Joke
8m. From the ledge of the previous route, climb the wall direct, Bald, bold and not really all that funny! Usually needs...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
21
Gallows
8m. Swing up the right-hand arete of the square wall, starting on the left and change sides to finish.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
22
Recess Chimney
8m. Reach the wide chimney by climbing the left-hand side of the large block then choose an exit; the right-hand side is...
 VD
23
Dog Eye Rib
8m. A serious undertaking up the exposed rib. The crux involves a technical stretch for slopers and the finish is the stuff of...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
24
The Sorcerer
8m. Climb the thin seam right of the arete with a taxing initial sequence then gradually improving holds.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
25
High Tensile Crack
8m. The thin crack right again is tougher than it looks and proves to be a trying, tiring struggle for most.
 HVS 5b
26
Buster the Cat
8m. The crack and groove on the far left left give awkward and usually somewhat dirty jamming.
 
Pumpy
HVS 5b
27
Pug
8m. The better-defined jamming crack just right terminates in a grass-filled recess. Finish up this!
 VS 4c
28
A Flabby Crack
12m. Technical and excellent when dry, despite the grass on the ledge and the chimney finish. Tackle the thin crack-line with...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6c
29
The Stone Loach
10m. An extended boulder problem leads up the thin crack past a niche to the break. Finish up the evil wide crack above...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
30
Anthrax
14m. Multi-pitch 'pleasure'. The tasty thin (and usually green) crack in the arete of the chimney to the break (possible belay)...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
31
The Lum
8m. The coffin-shaped chimney is grunted direct. Finish up the hanging flake on the left or just walk off right.
 
Strong
HVS 4c
32
Bantam Crack
8m. The diminutive hand-crack on the right is pleasant enough.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For HEN CLOUD

    Chicken
    "Absolute classic! Not that bold, but I thought 5b all the way, and so hard for ..." 14/Sep

    Solid Geometry
    "Lovely sequency climbing up the 'petrified vine'. Protection is just about adequ..." 23/Sep

    Delstree
    "I was having a bad day. I got onto the main crack and really struggled to place ..." 06/Sep top50

    Delstree
    "That's strange - I did all 3 in the same day as well and thought that delstree w..." 30/Jul top50

    Problem 1
    "An excellent, scary problem up the right hand vein at V2. I reckon the line jus..." 24/Apr

    The Arete
    "My first ever trad climb :) Its quite exposed so was thrilling for a 1st traditi..." 01/Aug

    Bachelor's Left-hand
    "Good but a bit disjointed. Thought HCE was the better route" 05/Jul top50

    Thompson's Buttress Route 2
    "this is a Good route offering little protection for the first few meters" 22/Apr

    B4, XS
    "Thought it was bottom end E7 French 7a" 05/Apr

    Great Chimney
    "Sustained but with good gear. Brilliant." 09/Aug top50

    Master of Puppets
    "alan,put it in as e5 6b in the new guide.thanks" 28/Jul

    Hen Cloud Eliminate
    "E bloody 0. Come on stop burying your heads in the sand." 27/Feb top50

    The Stone Loach
    "No evil wide crack, no tick! A great little route, Slimline's big brother." 18/Feb

    Ancient
    "The upper crack seemed quite stiff for VD, but then we were night climbing it wi..." 18/Oct

    Rib Chimney
    "Having read the descrioption in the BMC guide ('best chimney in the Peak' or som..." 01/Oct

    Central Climb Direct
    "Yep, plenty of improvisation required on pitch one. I've got the scars to prove ..." 08/Aug

    Bachelor's Left-hand
    "Solid 3 stars :D Almost as good as the Sloth at the Roaches." 06/Jul top50

    Main Crack
    "Totally hilarious. Probably a grade harder for the second since its fairly impos..." 19/Jun

    Bad Joke
    "A good route." 25/Apr

    Rib Crack
    "THe sequence getting through the bulge in the crack is tough for VS. I thought i..." 02/Apr

    Pinnacle Face
    "I dont think it's 4c either, just bottly 4b without much gear" 19/Mar

    Bulwark
    "The top is very simalar to Slowhand next-door - two low sidepulls for hands and ..." 21/Oct

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