Central Climb Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Uphill

The tallest part of the cliff, home to some great multi-pitch routes and the site of the only benightment on grit, Central Climb, where John Laycock was rescued by his climbing partner and their chauffeur. Guidebook page 85.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Ape
12m. Climb the fissure on the left edge of the lower wall the ape right along the break to finish.
 E1 5b
2
The Monkey in Your Soul
14m. A similar but lower line to a finish on the arete.
 E3 5c
3
Press on Regardless
10m. The smart soaring arete on the right-hand side of the gully gives bold moves up the gully face, gained from the left along...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
4
Roof Climb
The first route to climb both tiers. 1) 4b, 20m. A crack leads to a step right into a groove then move back left again up...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
5
The Long and Short
1) 5b, 15m. Climb the luminous groove in the wall and, at its top, pull out left and climb up to the terrace. 2) 5b, 10m. The...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
6
Anaconda
A devious climb which needs more attention. 1) 6a, 15m. Climb the shallow groove to an overlap and move leftwards. Then trend...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
7
Borstal Breakout
A better route than Anaconda but it can suffer from being dirty. Pitch 1 is an excellent E4 6a. 1) 6a, 20m. A short crack leads...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6b
8
Central Climb Direct
Not much more direct than the original. 1) 5a, 14m. Climb the wide crack that splits the face on the right awkwardly to a good...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
9
B4, XS
24m. The soaring arete is a fearsome challenge; a western End of the Affair perhaps? From the first stance on Central Climb...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
E7 6b
10
Central Climb Top 50
An old classic finding a sneaky way up the crag's tallest face. 1) 4b, 14m. Shin up the wide crack with difficulty and hidden...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
11
Encouragement
1) 5b, 14m. Climb the wall on crisp crimps (spaced gear) to the base of an elegant groove. Bridge up this to a good stance. 2)...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E1 5b
12
K2
A daunting Himalayan classic - then again perhaps not! 1) 4a, 12m. Climb the short steep groove to a stance. 2) 4b, 18m. The...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4b
13
The Arete
A rambling classic up the ridge which has a mini-Alpine feel. 1) 6m. Climb to a belay on the ledge below a step. 2) 20m. Tricky...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
14
Arete Wall
16m. The short but steep crack in the shady north wall.
 
Pumpy
VS 4b
15
Easy Gully
30m. The long moderate gully that runs up the back of the arete.
 M
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For HEN CLOUD

    Chicken
    "Absolute classic! Not that bold, but I thought 5b all the way, and so hard for ..." 14/Sep

    Solid Geometry
    "Lovely sequency climbing up the 'petrified vine'. Protection is just about adequ..." 23/Sep

    Delstree
    "I was having a bad day. I got onto the main crack and really struggled to place ..." 06/Sep top50

    Delstree
    "That's strange - I did all 3 in the same day as well and thought that delstree w..." 30/Jul top50

    Problem 1
    "An excellent, scary problem up the right hand vein at V2. I reckon the line jus..." 24/Apr

    The Arete
    "My first ever trad climb :) Its quite exposed so was thrilling for a 1st traditi..." 01/Aug

    Bachelor's Left-hand
    "Good but a bit disjointed. Thought HCE was the better route" 05/Jul top50

    Thompson's Buttress Route 2
    "this is a Good route offering little protection for the first few meters" 22/Apr

    B4, XS
    "Thought it was bottom end E7 French 7a" 05/Apr

    Great Chimney
    "Sustained but with good gear. Brilliant." 09/Aug top50

    Master of Puppets
    "alan,put it in as e5 6b in the new guide.thanks" 28/Jul

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