Adjacent Areas
< Delstree Area | Modern Area >
The tallest part of the cliff, home to some great multi-pitch routes and the site of the only benightment on grit, Central Climb, where John Laycock was rescued by his climbing partner and their chauffeur. Guidebook page 85.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Ape 12m. Climb the fissure on the left edge of the lower wall the ape right along the break to finish. | E1 5b | |
2 |
The Monkey in Your Soul 14m. A similar but lower line to a finish on the arete. | E3 5c | |
3 |
Press on Regardless 10m. The smart soaring arete on the right-hand side of the gully gives bold moves up the gully face, gained from the left along... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
4 |
Roof Climb The first route to climb both tiers. 1) 4b, 20m. A crack leads to a step right into a groove then move back left again up... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4b |
5 |
The Long and Short 1) 5b, 15m. Climb the luminous groove in the wall and, at its top, pull out left and climb up to the terrace. 2) 5b, 10m. The... | 1 Stars Crimpy | E1 5b |
6 |
Anaconda A devious climb which needs more attention. 1) 6a, 15m. Climb the shallow groove to an overlap and move leftwards. Then trend... | 2 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
7 |
Borstal Breakout A better route than Anaconda but it can suffer from being dirty. Pitch 1 is an excellent E4 6a. 1) 6a, 20m. A short crack leads... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6b |
8 |
Central Climb Direct Not much more direct than the original. 1) 5a, 14m. Climb the wide crack that splits the face on the right awkwardly to a good... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
9 |
B4, XS 24m. The soaring arete is a fearsome challenge; a western End of the Affair perhaps? From the first stance on Central Climb... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Rounded Fluttery | E7 6b |
10 |
Central Climb Top 50 An old classic finding a sneaky way up the crag's tallest face. 1) 4b, 14m. Shin up the wide crack with difficulty and hidden... 4 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
11 |
Encouragement 1) 5b, 14m. Climb the wall on crisp crimps (spaced gear) to the base of an elegant groove. Bridge up this to a good stance. 2)... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E1 5b |
12 |
K2 A daunting Himalayan classic - then again perhaps not! 1) 4a, 12m. Climb the short steep groove to a stance. 2) 4b, 18m. The... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4b |
13 |
The Arete A rambling classic up the ridge which has a mini-Alpine feel. 1) 6m. Climb to a belay on the ledge below a step. 2) 20m. Tricky... 5 user comments | 2 Stars | VD |
14 |
Arete Wall 16m. The short but steep crack in the shady north wall. | Pumpy | VS 4b |
15 |
Easy Gully 30m. The long moderate gully that runs up the back of the arete. | M | |