Adjacent Areas
< Modern Area | Far Right >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill
10 minsWindy
The long tapering wall that forms the right-hand side of Hen Cloud has many superb routes across a spread of grades, and tends to be less green than the rock further left. The place is worth a day or two of your time. The right-hand end of the crag has more great routes from the ancient classic of Great Chimney, to the superb Bachelor routes and some stunning soaring aretes too. Guidebook page 87.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Problem 1 A magic little problem up the veins. There is a nice V0 (5a) problem up the ramp to the left as well. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | V2 5c |
2 |
Stokes' Line 6m. Perplexing initial moves gain the crack - sometimes. | 1 Stars Technical | E1 6b |
3 |
This Poison 8m. The narrow wall also has a fiercely technical start. If successful, finish leftwards through the bulge above. | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6b |
4 |
Slimline 8m. The slim seam that develops into a crack is precarious. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5b |
5 |
Peter and the Wolf 10m. The blank wall gives a harrowing solo. Nice pocket work leads to the final hard move; undercutting to reach the break. | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E6 6b |
6 |
Fast Piping 10m. The wall just left of the first long fissure is technical and sustained until the beckoning crack above is reached. | 1 Stars | E4 6b |
7 |
Hedgehog Crack 10m. The crack widens gradually from finger locks to good hand-jams to plain awkward. The finish is wide and perplexing. 3 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
8 |
Comedian 12m. The bulging groove is approached via a steep wall and deep break (large Friends which get in the way of your hands). Lean... | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
9 |
Frayed Nerve 12m. Climb the scooped wall just right to the same break and then the steeper wall to enter a tiny but technical groove. | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
10 |
Second's Retreat 14m. The groove is always an awkward battle and is often lurid. | HVS 4c | |
11 |
Second's Advance 14m. The wall (with tricky mantelshelf) and the hanging crack above and right are altogether a pleasanter affair. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
12 |
Corinthian 16m. The long bulging and technical crack is gained from the left, has a whole bunch of sloping holds, and is superb. An old... | 3 Stars Pumpy Rounded | E3 5c |
13 |
Hen Cloud Eliminate Top 50 18m. The steep cracks in the wall give a steep and superb pitch. Layaways and jugs lead to a tricky entry into a shallow... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
14 |
Cool Fool 18m. The long bulging arete. Climb to a block on the right then tackle the arete, sadly with a deviation at half-height to... | Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
15 |
Rib Crack 18m. Climb into the chimney and then head up the hanging crack in its left wall by surprisingly pleasant moves. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
16 |
Rib Chimney 18m. The long chimney is approached by a crack to pass blocks and then gives classic bridging, as well as back and footing, if... 3 user comments | 2 Stars | S 4a |
17 |
Caricature 20m. The upper half of the face right of the chimney is classy and intense. Runners in the gully and a second belayer away to... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
18 |
Chiaroscuro 24m. Follow Bachelor's Left-hand to the top of its crack then move left and teeter up the vague rib to good holds on... 10 user comments | Crimpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
19 |
Bachelor's Left-hand Top 50 24m. A major classic up the tallest buttress here and one of the best routes in Western Grit. Climb a tricky crack, a bulge... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
20 |
Parallel Lines 14m. The blank wall via a thin seam and tenuous moves to reach a left-trending ramp. Finish up or down Bachelor's Climb. A... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6c |
21 |
Bachelor's Climb 28m. Another great route. Climb the steep bulging crack left of the arete on jams to a ledge, then continue by more jamming to... 4 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
22 |
Space Probe The main arete of the Batchelor's wall. 1) 6a, 10m. Start on the left and make hard moves past poor gear until you can sprint... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
