Hen Cloud Eliminate Area

Adjacent Areas
< Modern Area  |  Far Right >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill
10 mins

The long tapering wall that forms the right-hand side of Hen Cloud has many superb routes across a spread of grades, and tends to be less green than the rock further left. The place is worth a day or two of your time. The right-hand end of the crag has more great routes from the ancient classic of Great Chimney, to the superb Bachelor routes and some stunning soaring aretes too. Guidebook page 87.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Problem 1
A magic little problem up the veins. There is a nice V0 (5a) problem up the ramp to the left as well.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
V2 5c
2
Stokes' Line
6m. Perplexing initial moves gain the crack - sometimes.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 6b
3
This Poison
8m. The narrow wall also has a fiercely technical start. If successful, finish leftwards through the bulge above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6b
4
Slimline
8m. The slim seam that develops into a crack is precarious.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
5
Peter and the Wolf
10m. The blank wall gives a harrowing solo. Nice pocket work leads to the final hard move; undercutting to reach the break.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E6 6b
6
Fast Piping
10m. The wall just left of the first long fissure is technical and sustained until the beckoning crack above is reached.
 
1 Stars
E4 6b
7
Hedgehog Crack
10m. The crack widens gradually from finger locks to good hand-jams to plain awkward. The finish is wide and perplexing.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
8
Comedian
12m. The bulging groove is approached via a steep wall and deep break (large Friends which get in the way of your hands). Lean...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
9
Frayed Nerve
12m. Climb the scooped wall just right to the same break and then the steeper wall to enter a tiny but technical groove.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
10
Second's Retreat
14m. The groove is always an awkward battle and is often lurid.
 HVS 4c
11
Second's Advance
14m. The wall (with tricky mantelshelf) and the hanging crack above and right are altogether a pleasanter affair.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
12
Corinthian
16m. The long bulging and technical crack is gained from the left, has a whole bunch of sloping holds, and is superb. An old...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E3 5c
13
Hen Cloud Eliminate Top 50
18m. The steep cracks in the wall give a steep and superb pitch. Layaways and jugs lead to a tricky entry into a shallow...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
14
Cool Fool
18m. The long bulging arete. Climb to a block on the right then tackle the arete, sadly with a deviation at half-height to...
 
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
15
Rib Crack
18m. Climb into the chimney and then head up the hanging crack in its left wall by surprisingly pleasant moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
16
Rib Chimney
18m. The long chimney is approached by a crack to pass blocks and then gives classic bridging, as well as back and footing, if...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4a
17
Caricature
20m. The upper half of the face right of the chimney is classy and intense. Runners in the gully and a second belayer away to...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
18
Chiaroscuro
24m. Follow Bachelor's Left-hand to the top of its crack then move left and teeter up the vague rib to good holds on...
10 user comments
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
19
Bachelor's Left-hand Top 50
24m. A major classic up the tallest buttress here and one of the best routes in Western Grit. Climb a tricky crack, a bulge...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
20
Parallel Lines
14m. The blank wall via a thin seam and tenuous moves to reach a left-trending ramp. Finish up or down Bachelor's Climb. A...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
21
Bachelor's Climb
28m. Another great route. Climb the steep bulging crack left of the arete on jams to a ledge, then continue by more jamming to...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
22
Space Probe
The main arete of the Batchelor's wall. 1) 6a, 10m. Start on the left and make hard moves past poor gear until you can sprint...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For HEN CLOUD

    Chicken
    "Absolute classic! Not that bold, but I thought 5b all the way, and so hard for ..." 14/Sep

    Solid Geometry
    "Lovely sequency climbing up the 'petrified vine'. Protection is just about adequ..." 23/Sep

    Delstree
    "I was having a bad day. I got onto the main crack and really struggled to place ..." 06/Sep top50

    Delstree
    "That's strange - I did all 3 in the same day as well and thought that delstree w..." 30/Jul top50

    Problem 1
    "An excellent, scary problem up the right hand vein at V2. I reckon the line jus..." 24/Apr

    The Arete
    "My first ever trad climb :) Its quite exposed so was thrilling for a 1st traditi..." 01/Aug

    Bachelor's Left-hand
    "Good but a bit disjointed. Thought HCE was the better route" 05/Jul top50

    Thompson's Buttress Route 2
    "this is a Good route offering little protection for the first few meters" 22/Apr

    B4, XS
    "Thought it was bottom end E7 French 7a" 05/Apr

    Great Chimney
    "Sustained but with good gear. Brilliant." 09/Aug top50

    Master of Puppets
    "alan,put it in as e5 6b in the new guide.thanks" 28/Jul

    Hen Cloud Eliminate
    "E bloody 0. Come on stop burying your heads in the sand." 27/Feb top50

    The Stone Loach
    "No evil wide crack, no tick! A great little route, Slimline's big brother." 18/Feb

    Ancient
    "The upper crack seemed quite stiff for VD, but then we were night climbing it wi..." 18/Oct

    Rib Chimney
    "Having read the descrioption in the BMC guide ('best chimney in the Peak' or som..." 01/Oct

    Search for comments