The Unconquerables

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

Home to a trio of classic cracks including the peerless pitch of The Right Unconquerable, one of the most famous of all gritstone outings. Doing all three of the Unconquerable cracks in under an hour is a way of spicing up ascents when you have them wired.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Little Unconquerable
The left-hand crack is a mild and short test of fist-jamming. Thought by some to be the hardest of the three, though it isn't!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5a
2
The Left Unconquerable Top 50
The leaning crack is jammed to a poor rest at the break. Build a bomb-shelter it then make the crucial precarious layback moves...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
3
Vanquished
The upper wall between the diverging cracks has a stopper move using a really poor pocket, though the tall can reach past it.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E4 6b
4
The Right Unconquerable Top 50
One of gritstone's greatest classics which is sadly showing its age. Start up the polished central crack before shuffling right...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
5
Monday Blue
The right arete of the wall has runners just below the crux, but that is a fair way off the ground. Finish as for The Right...
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
6
The Vogon
The inevitable girdle. Climb Monday Blue to the break then swing along this past Right and Left to finish up Little.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5b
7
Curving Chimney
A good example of its type. Upward progress is a grind, slipping back down is a doddle. The upper section is easier.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VD
8
Curving Chimney Left Arete
It is possible, with considerable self-discipline and snug blinkers, to climb the narrow arete to the left of the chimney.
 
Fluttery
HVS 5a
9
Curving Buttress Direct
From the left end of a ledge start up the blunt rib (poor micro wires to the left), then continue boldly and precariously...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
10
Curving Buttress
Start as for the last route but make hard moves up and right to a ledge in the middle of the wall. Continue through a bulge to...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5b
11
Curving Buttress Corner
The long shrubby corner is very mild. Suitable for the timid.
1 user comment
 M
12
Chockstone Crack
The short crack is a bit of thrash unless you layback it.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HVD 4b
13
Pinch
The delicate arete then the small bulge up and right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4b
14
Greg's Retreat
Spiral up the side wall of the buttress.
 
Technical
HVS 5b
15
Pillar Arete
The pleasant undercut arete.
 
1 Stars
VD
16
Jammy
The central crack then the face on the right at the top.
 D
17
Marmalade's Lost Start
The perplexing centre of the small wall to a bold finale.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Fluttery
E1 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Unfamiliar
    "Changed from E8 6c *** to E7 6c ***, no votes" 20/Feb

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

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